Wiring Issues 67 Dodge, Need Help!
#1
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Wiring Issues 67 Dodge, Need Help!
Hi Guys,
If Anyone can assist me with a wiringissue I am having with my 67 Dodge Coronet Charging system, please let me know.
I am no good at the internet so please be gentle... Thank you.
Car originally had a single field alternator.
Now it has Dual field Alternator w/ original voltage regulator.
Problem is : it keeps burning up the Regulators.
Any suggestions on a Wiring setup that will allow me to use the new style with the old wiring harness. Also a wiring Schematic would help from the old to the new.
Or if someone has a Link to somewhere that I can get a different type of harness to resolve the issue. I have gone through 3 regulators in a few months due to the alt being full fielded.
Thanks in Advance!
If Anyone can assist me with a wiringissue I am having with my 67 Dodge Coronet Charging system, please let me know.
I am no good at the internet so please be gentle... Thank you.
Car originally had a single field alternator.
Now it has Dual field Alternator w/ original voltage regulator.
Problem is : it keeps burning up the Regulators.
Any suggestions on a Wiring setup that will allow me to use the new style with the old wiring harness. Also a wiring Schematic would help from the old to the new.
Or if someone has a Link to somewhere that I can get a different type of harness to resolve the issue. I have gone through 3 regulators in a few months due to the alt being full fielded.
Thanks in Advance!
#4
If you changed the alt and nothing else you must ground one of the terminals on the dual field alt. Usually you just run one wire from one of the terminals[doesnt matter which one] to the back side of the alt case[maybe to one of the case bolts].This will ground the one terminal. Then you can hook up the alt. just like the original single field alt. Other than that, the only thing i can think of is that the original regulator is bad. It maybe marginal and then you add the newer alt.{mosdt likely with more output} and problems start to happen. Original regulators were not that reliable or accurate. they operated on a resistance principal and after a while they went bad. Age and excessive extra loads can take its toll on them. The whole original system on the 67 was only good for maybe 30 amps and if the vehicle sat around for a while without use, it just compounds the problem [excessive resistance caused by corrosion in connections]. I changed my reg over to a electronic one, it made a big difference on my 64 dart, got the wiring and reg at the junk yard. I would bypass the original amp gauge also.use volt meter instead.
#5
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thanks for the help.So far I've changed to a 65 amp alt.,switched to the electronic regulator that's silver in color and shorter in highth than the original mechanical one,and I've grounded the extra field.The only time that it's not putting out 14.6v is when the turn signal is blinking;it bounces between 12.6v/14.6v. I've been told to swap out the older style regulator(screw-down connector on one side & male press-in wire connector on the other)with the newer vehicle (2wire(Ipin and Fpin) single plug) type.I would do this but,I'm not sure which wires to disconnect and which ones to connect.This is driving me nuts!
#6
heres a simple fix for the problem bill evans wire harnesses, 1-814-864-2622 .call the guy and tell him what car you have and that you want a motor harness for that car with the hookups for electronic ign. with new style alt. and voltage reg. its wired up to go right to your bulk head connector . itl like 125 a harness, iv used 4 harneses from him over the years and am totally satisfied with them. then you get the orange control box, and voltage reg. from summit racing. thats the fastest fix i know.hope this helps.
#7
hey the thing to do if your in a bind is to just disconnect the original regulator. Find a regulator and "pigtail" {OEM plug and wire }. I like to use the plug and wire from an electronic regulator equipped dodge pickup because its easier to get more wire length. So, unwrap the electrical tape as far back as possible then cut the wire so you have a nice long length of wires to work with. The green wire on the "pigtail" goes to one of the field terminals on the alternator.[it doesn't matter which field terminal you connect it to !!!] The other wire on the pigtail [almost always blue colored] goes to a 12volt, key-on source. You could splice into the hot wire that originally went to your original electromechanical reg. or you could use a "jumper lug" {NAPA AUTO?} on the 12 volt, key-on terminal to your ballast resistor. The only thing left would be the other field terminal on the alt.. Surprise, that terminal is a 12volt key-on source also.Find a source and run a wire to that terminal. Leave the big wire on the alt alone and tap up{real good like} any of the hot wires you may have cut or disco'd. The original field wire from before you put the new ones on can be unhooked and tapped. Youll need a volt gauge, some crimpers and varios crimp style terminal ends of approriate size. Hope this helps:theomahamoparguy.
#8
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thanks a lot. I'll give it a try. What you have described is what I've pictured in my mind but have been hesitant to try due to my luck with other electrical projects. Lets just say if I wouldnt second guess myself so much,I would be half-way proud of my automotive ablities.Thanks again.
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peterlucas
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05-16-2013 11:08 AM