ZDDP (zinc) in engine oil
04-04-2010, 08:54 AM
#31
Mopar Lover
67 -
Guess the real question was: is the ZDDP OIL worth it? Seems like an easy fix, even if it's not the cheapest. The older ISKY cam should be "tougher" than most of the modern offerings, but the lifters are new
and that might be the weakest link.
Archer
Guess the real question was: is the ZDDP OIL worth it? Seems like an easy fix, even if it's not the cheapest. The older ISKY cam should be "tougher" than most of the modern offerings, but the lifters are new
and that might be the weakest link.Archer
04-04-2010, 03:28 PM
#32
Mopar Lover
Thread Starter
It depends on how much of a gambler you are... it cost me a little over $350 and a couple weeks work to swap out the cam and lifters, and that's just taking a chance that none of the metal got into the bearings. I promise you, I won't forget to either get a high zinc oil or an additive again lol.
04-04-2010, 04:53 PM
#33
Mopar Lover
look at it this way
roller cam and lifters 800 and up
traditional cam and lifters
300 and up
engine re-build: hundreds, thats if you dont have metal in bearings
04-04-2010, 06:55 PM
#34
Mopar Lover
Guys -
Guess my writing talents aren't as good as I thought. I meant does the ZDDP work (actually have enough zinc/lubes in it to make a difference??? I take it by your answers that it does. I'd rather just order that than try to figure out who still has zinc, and how much, in the the mix!
Buck -
I don't gamble with the car at all
!
Archer
Guess my writing talents aren't as good as I thought. I meant does the ZDDP work (actually have enough zinc/lubes in it to make a difference??? I take it by your answers that it does. I'd rather just order that than try to figure out who still has zinc, and how much, in the the mix!
Buck -
I don't gamble with the car at all
!Archer
04-04-2010, 08:01 PM
#35
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According to http://www.zddp.net/
After 70+ years of trouble-free, metal-metal engine protection, the E.P.A. is forcing ZDDP
(Z inc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate = Zinc and Phosphorus) from domestic motor oil. If your engine was designed prior to the 1990s, Your non-roller lifters require ZDDP in your motor oil to avoid premature deterioration.
(Z inc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate = Zinc and Phosphorus) from domestic motor oil. If your engine was designed prior to the 1990s, Your non-roller lifters require ZDDP in your motor oil to avoid premature deterioration.
Don't let your lifters run metal-to-metal. Keep ZDDP, via ZDDPlus™, in your motor oil.
Add the 4 fluid ounce contents of this ZDDPlus™ bottle at every 4 to 5 quart oil change.
Add the 4 fluid ounce contents of this ZDDPlus™ bottle at every 4 to 5 quart oil change.
One bottle ofZDDPlus™contains more ZDDP than two bottles of GM's EOS, which is designed for break-in use ONLY! at HALF the PRICE!
04-10-2010, 11:32 AM
#37
Mopar Lover
04-11-2010, 05:53 PM
#40
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04-15-2010, 02:16 PM
#41
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This link is worth the read... http://slantsix.org/articles/Modern_Engine_Oils.htm The price at the local dealer is much higher than stated though. I think I got it for about 28 dollars!
06-06-2022, 08:34 PM
#44
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Oil add zddp.
After I read the post that started this thread, I went out and read a bunch of articles on ZDDP. It looks like this issue goes back to 2006 and maybe further. My 440 has a roller valve train, so maybe I don't have to worry about the lack of ZDDP in the current motor oils? My question would be this, is there any harm in adding ZDDP just to be safe? It sounds like cheap insurance to me.
09-12-2022, 05:03 AM
#45
Mopar Fanatic
Sorry to see what happened Buck. I'm going to say something that isn't popular. Zinc, break-in oils and additives are the PROBLEM!! All you need is a highly rated PSI oil. Preferably over 100000 PSI with flat tappet cams. The zinc craze has actually caused more wear at high levels. In the past I used Lucas 10w30 Classic Car oil with high zinc content. I unknowingly didn't realize the PSI was around 63000 (very low and damaging to flat tappet cams). My cam wore a lobe and lifter like yours. I was made aware of an engineer's blog regarding oil, zinc, cam break-ins and high PSI oils. All the bull out there about high revs and zinc needed to break a cam in along with break-in oils was disproven. The blog is 540RAT and he's a wealth of information. I used the number 1 PSI oil after replacing my cam and lifters without the 20-minute revs, left the high-pressure valve springs attached. I basically assembled the cam with a coating of Quaker State 5w30 full synthetic as RAT suggested and started it, set the timing and have been driving it since. Quaker 5w30 Full Synthetic is rated upwards of around 153000 PSI well over the 100000 PSI for flat tappet cams. 540RAT strongly condems the use of additives and break-in oils.
Note: These engines way back in time when they drove out of the factory didn't go through all the ritualistic revs and additives, they were just driven. As a former Chrysler mechanic from the 70's I've seen a thing or two. Gary
Note: These engines way back in time when they drove out of the factory didn't go through all the ritualistic revs and additives, they were just driven. As a former Chrysler mechanic from the 70's I've seen a thing or two. Gary
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