1968 Polara no headlights , reverse lights dash lights , radio im at wits end !
08-21-2013, 07:04 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
1968 Polara no headlights , reverse lights dash lights , radio im at wits end !
Im quite perplexed, I have a 1968 Polara 383 /727 and ive got pretty much everything done for it to pass inspection but these issues.
Headlights do not work, power to the switch power to the dashboard dimmer switch next to it no power to the floor mounted high low beam switch.
no interior cluster lights, dimmer switch on dash turns on the center map light on the dash but thats it.
no reverse lights
radio worked but does not anymore....
the fuse for intr / lights is hetting no power, i jumped 12v to it the test light lit up on both sides but nothing turns on still.
Im at a total loss i have alot of time tied up in chasing this issue. i jumped power to the floor mounted high beam switch lights turn on.
any help would be appreciated !
Headlights do not work, power to the switch power to the dashboard dimmer switch next to it no power to the floor mounted high low beam switch.
no interior cluster lights, dimmer switch on dash turns on the center map light on the dash but thats it.
no reverse lights
radio worked but does not anymore....
the fuse for intr / lights is hetting no power, i jumped 12v to it the test light lit up on both sides but nothing turns on still.
Im at a total loss i have alot of time tied up in chasing this issue. i jumped power to the floor mounted high beam switch lights turn on.
any help would be appreciated !
08-21-2013, 07:39 AM
#2
Harness CONNECTORS and CONNECTORS at switches are the primary failure mode for these old girls. One big huge concern is deterioration of the firewall/ bulkhead connector
Read this article which points out the whys and hows:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml
The dash dimmer gets power from the tail light circuit fuse, through the dimmer and down to the fuse panel "inst" fuse on the tan wire, then out to all dash lamps on orange wires. If you have power at both sides of the inst fuse with tail / park on and with dimmer "to the left," then the trouble is after the fuse. Cluster grounding is somewhat of a problem, as there was never a separate ground wire -- depends on the mounting hardware. It's wise to connect a separate ground wire from the cluster PC board ground (mount screws) and fasten to the column support
I would just pull the cluster and "go through it." There are many problems, all repairable that crop up. Some are:
The PC board connector pins get loose, corroded, and broken. You can resolder/ repair them.
The dash lamp socket fingers get weak / corroded, and the PC board becomes oxidized, as well as the lamps just plain fail
"Now that" you have the cluster out, there are several things that "happen" with the instruments/ gauges SYSTEM. Once again, the PC connector
The finger contacts which the instrument voltage limiter fit into lose contact with the board. Solder jumpers across.
The instrument voltage limiter goes bad. Replace with a solid state one, or build your own. Google it.
The gauge studs have "fake" nuts which get loose and corroded. Replace the nuts with standard ones, and loosen/ tighten them a few times to "scrub" the board clean.
So far as interior lamps, they are generally distributed on yellow switched ground leg. If you have a working map light, this means that at least it's getting power. All interior switched lamps are switched in the GROUND leg, just like the door switches. So, for example, you should be able to pull out one door switch wire and clip it to ground. From there it's a matter of checking power to the lamps, and using the proper bulbs. The larger base bulbs are dual contact.
You have a shop manual/ wiring diagram? There are a few here and there you can download, some over at MyMopar
Read this article which points out the whys and hows:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml
The dash dimmer gets power from the tail light circuit fuse, through the dimmer and down to the fuse panel "inst" fuse on the tan wire, then out to all dash lamps on orange wires. If you have power at both sides of the inst fuse with tail / park on and with dimmer "to the left," then the trouble is after the fuse. Cluster grounding is somewhat of a problem, as there was never a separate ground wire -- depends on the mounting hardware. It's wise to connect a separate ground wire from the cluster PC board ground (mount screws) and fasten to the column support
I would just pull the cluster and "go through it." There are many problems, all repairable that crop up. Some are:
The PC board connector pins get loose, corroded, and broken. You can resolder/ repair them.
The dash lamp socket fingers get weak / corroded, and the PC board becomes oxidized, as well as the lamps just plain fail
"Now that" you have the cluster out, there are several things that "happen" with the instruments/ gauges SYSTEM. Once again, the PC connector
The finger contacts which the instrument voltage limiter fit into lose contact with the board. Solder jumpers across.
The instrument voltage limiter goes bad. Replace with a solid state one, or build your own. Google it.
The gauge studs have "fake" nuts which get loose and corroded. Replace the nuts with standard ones, and loosen/ tighten them a few times to "scrub" the board clean.
So far as interior lamps, they are generally distributed on yellow switched ground leg. If you have a working map light, this means that at least it's getting power. All interior switched lamps are switched in the GROUND leg, just like the door switches. So, for example, you should be able to pull out one door switch wire and clip it to ground. From there it's a matter of checking power to the lamps, and using the proper bulbs. The larger base bulbs are dual contact.
You have a shop manual/ wiring diagram? There are a few here and there you can download, some over at MyMopar
The following users liked this post:
Nate Ryan (08-21-2013)
08-21-2013, 08:15 AM
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
I did unplug clean and di electric grease the 3 connectors at the firewall.
the first thing i did was change the dimmer switch at the floor but that did nothing because theres no power going down to those wires.
I just read the article you posted, my ampmeter does move when you turn the car on , my fuel gauge and temp gauge is all functional.
Im more concerned with the headlights not working.
is there a circuit breaker on the headlight switch ? that switch is near impossible to find and very expensive.
i checked the wires at the alternator and they seem fine.
is there some sort of voltage regulator like an old ford hiding somewhere in this car ?
:banghead:
the first thing i did was change the dimmer switch at the floor but that did nothing because theres no power going down to those wires.
I just read the article you posted, my ampmeter does move when you turn the car on , my fuel gauge and temp gauge is all functional.
Im more concerned with the headlights not working.
is there a circuit breaker on the headlight switch ? that switch is near impossible to find and very expensive.
i checked the wires at the alternator and they seem fine.
is there some sort of voltage regulator like an old ford hiding somewhere in this car ?
:banghead:
08-21-2013, 08:29 AM
#5
New Member
Thread Starter
The lights did work when I pulled it on to my trailer. the car has been sitting scince god know how long. it was last registered in florida in 1982.
i do have a wiring diagram and i have been chasing wires quite a bit.
Im almost thinking to look at the weld splice because my ignition clicks when you go to start the car you have to key it a few times. i have already changed the battery ground mabye theres a demon in the positive portion of that weld splice.
i do have a wiring diagram and i have been chasing wires quite a bit.
Im almost thinking to look at the weld splice because my ignition clicks when you go to start the car you have to key it a few times. i have already changed the battery ground mabye theres a demon in the positive portion of that weld splice.
Last edited by Nate Ryan; 08-21-2013 at 09:23 AM.
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