Greetings Crew Members.

So I'm having a "no charge" condition with my land yacht. Noticed dim dashboard lights one evening. Glanced at the dreaded Amp Meter and the needle was leaning towards the discharge side of the gauge.

I used to have a surging condition, all the lights would pulse and the Amp Meter needle would follow the tempo. That phenomenon has ceased...

I've checked my ground references and did some corrosion cleaning on the spade connectors. Nothing horrible.

Battery voltage with the 383 sleeping is 12.39VDC. Running at idle, the voltage DROPS! to 12.19. Bumps-up to 12.21VDC at fast idle.

Original alternator was rebuilt last Spring but the voltage regulator was "ok" according to the electric shop whiz-bang technician. The fella has a good reputation around town so I didn't replace it.

My big block seems to be running hotter than it used to before this no charge BS.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Regards, Captain Chrysler

 

I would check the amp gauge !! Take a very close look at it.. See if it looks discolored from heat ?

 

Good morning TVLynn and thank you for your reply. Glad you're still here...

I'll inspect the gauge as best as I can and get back to you. It's a VERY complicated tight dashboard but a mirror and flash light should do the trick.

I was rereading an old post from 440RoadRunner regarding some simple charging circuit tests, so I plan to do those checks too. I'll let you know what I find.

Dependability is a must with me, rollback service is out of the question!

Regards, Captain Chrysler

 

BOOMPY
Hi I am new on this site I had the same problem with my 69 road runner over charging and under charging .what I found was the wiring on my car was old and oxidized so the charging circuit was having a hard time ( voltage regulator ) .the fix was going to a one wire alternator .all I did was take a 8 gauge wire and ran it to the battery from the new alternator just like the directions say .what that does is take's the stress off the wiring system my car run a lot better.


ricks_RR

 

Update: It's my round back alternator. I metered the field post and the ground post at idle and only had 11.97VDC. It should be 13.5 to 14VDC!

Went to my favorite auto parts store for a new (rebuilt) alternator. The one they had was a duel field square back 50amp, that's what their books said was the correct replacement.

I've heard of duel field alternators being used with a single field set-up. Something about connecting the fields at the posts. I'm worried about the 50amps heating up the 48 year old wiring!

What say you?

Beached, Captain Chrysler

 

Should work just fine,,,,,, Just make sure the battery charge wire is in good shape...

 

Never done it but as I remember one of the fields needs to be grounded.. OR up grade your wiring and convert to the later solid state regulator

 

Thanks for your reply RacerHog. Glad you're still here.

Sorry to sound like a rookie, I have two wires on the + side of the battery. One goes to the starter, the other has the fuseable links. I think that one goes to the starter relay? Both LOOK ok. Which one are you referring to?

CC

 

Thanks for your reply ricks_RR.
I'm concerned your set-up would overcharge the battery since you're bypassing? the voltage regulator...

CC

 

Thanks for your reply TVLynn. I'm leary about going to the duel field alternator. Rather not have to do a rewire due to cost, headache and time. Also don't want to HAVE TO because I smoked the harness!

CC

 

simply ground one of the field wires

 

a one wire alternator has the voltage regulator built in it .what it does is only keeps the battery charged when it needs it .by doing this it takes the your old wiring for the charging is not being used the old wiring if it is hard (old) or oxidized your old charging system can not work right .by going to a one wire alternator your only keeping the battery charged and the battery is only putting power where you are asking it to go .
if you do this the only thing you need to do is make up a 8 awg wire long enough to go to the positive terminal of the battery and the post on the alternator and make a wire to go to ground .it is very easy to do JEGS sells the alternator all you have to do is order the right size meaning if you have AC or electric window you will need a bigger voltage output .with my road runner all I needed was 60 amp and the car runs much better .

 

Ok fellas, I want you all to know how much I appreciate your input. I swear I'm not trying to turn this into an electric theory seminar!

I went back to the whiz-bang auto electric shop guy and explained the no charge phenomenon. I told him I was only getting 11.97VDC off the alternator. He said if the voltage regulator isn't sending the message, the alternator won't make power?!

So I'm going to reinstall my 35amp "round back", replace the female spade connector, and slip in a NEW voltage regulator. I'm hoping for 13.5VDC on the battery at idle.

I'll post the results. Thanks again fellas...
Thought you'd get a "charge" outa' that!

Regards, CC

 

keep us informed

 

I'm shocked by this post!

 

Ha! Good one...
Too damn cold in the boat house tonight. I got the alternator back in last night. Try to change out the voltage regulator Wednesday night.
Stay tuned, CC

 

Boats are just to fricking weird, I have one and have had them over the years , you need a long haired dude that's lost contact with reality 20 years ago to figure it out or a kid just out of boat School.
I'd go with the old guy!

 

Uh, I call my garage the "boat house" because I keep my land yacht in it. "Land Yacht" referring to the size of my C-body Chrysler. (I would have said "sea-body" but didn't want to confuse anyone further...

So I FIXED the no charge phenomenon. Replaced my voltage regulator and improved the alternator connector. Amp meter is to the charge side again! Thanks to everyone for your input. Now "The Ghost" is out of dry dock and back on the water, uh, road.

Cast off, Captain Chrysler

 

thats great now you can enjoy the boat