6-71 roots
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1968newport (11-17-2012)
#3
Please tell me this question is a joke. You DO know that 4- and 6- 71 blowers are what were traditionally used on AA/F cars?
I spose if the blower was loose enough and underdriven enough you could get it "small" enough that the engine would be "too big" for the blower, but I rather doubt it!!!!
I spose if the blower was loose enough and underdriven enough you could get it "small" enough that the engine would be "too big" for the blower, but I rather doubt it!!!!
#4
a friend ran a blower on the street. he was told not run the set up that was ran on a race engine, ie pully sizes not faster than 1 to 1. cant remember what timming to run, just dont over do it.
#6
Anything will work but using a small blower it has to spin faster to make the same amount of air move through & will become supersonic & create a lot of turbulence / loss of efficency so I agree using a larger blower & turning it more slowly is a better way to go.
BDS has some of the most efficient blowers available & would be happy to discuss what you need , I assume you will be over 500 CI but not sure how high you want to run the engine RPM wise .
BDS has some of the most efficient blowers available & would be happy to discuss what you need , I assume you will be over 500 CI but not sure how high you want to run the engine RPM wise .
Last edited by Chryco Psycho; 11-18-2012 at 06:03 AM.
#7
Here is what I have. I just want to confirm that I'm working with a good combo.
1-Hampton 6-71 blower
2-engle cam
Lift-intake 515
-exhaust 535
Duration- intake 276
- exhaust 285
Gross cam lift- intake 342
- exhaust 355
Duration @ .050" - intake 230
- exhaust 238
Lobe centres 112
Edelbrock RPM aluminum heads with 88cc chambers
Mopar 383 block bored 30 over, and stroked
Scat rotating assembly, forged of course
Edelbrock 670 carbs (2)
Edelbrock 150gpm fuel pump
I am looking for headers with a 3" collector as I plan on running 3" exhaust
Looking at a 3 speed tranny (727) built for 750 HP (any suggestions)?
2500 stall converter
Not sure if I will need to intercollegiate the blower
My redline will be 5500 even though my power band exceeds that (is actually 2000-6500 powerband). I am not looking for a high revved, just a high torque machine off the line.
Rear end gears will be 4.11 in my 8-3/4" rear end
Front disk break conversion (any suggestions)?
Want to cram the widest rubber I can in the stock configuration
Will be installing traction bars, but rest of suspension will remain stock this year, but plans are to install air ride system as this will be a bit of a low rider.
Opinions: car will be a sheet metal finish with black powder coated wheels. Interior is black which I am taking out of another Newport.
What gauges will I need to monitor blower and overall performance?
(Thinking boost, oil, tach, temp)
Is a waste gate a good idea?
Looking at an MSD ignition with boost control.
High flow water pump, and high volume oil pump.
Should I go bigger alternator if I am installing a sound system? 2000w
I think that's it for now. If I am over looking anything please let me know. I am not an expert, just did my research and have the . This project I am involved with building. My previous project was hired out.
Thanks guys,
Newport
1-Hampton 6-71 blower
2-engle cam
Lift-intake 515
-exhaust 535
Duration- intake 276
- exhaust 285
Gross cam lift- intake 342
- exhaust 355
Duration @ .050" - intake 230
- exhaust 238
Lobe centres 112
Edelbrock RPM aluminum heads with 88cc chambers
Mopar 383 block bored 30 over, and stroked
Scat rotating assembly, forged of course
Edelbrock 670 carbs (2)
Edelbrock 150gpm fuel pump
I am looking for headers with a 3" collector as I plan on running 3" exhaust
Looking at a 3 speed tranny (727) built for 750 HP (any suggestions)?
2500 stall converter
Not sure if I will need to intercollegiate the blower
My redline will be 5500 even though my power band exceeds that (is actually 2000-6500 powerband). I am not looking for a high revved, just a high torque machine off the line.
Rear end gears will be 4.11 in my 8-3/4" rear end
Front disk break conversion (any suggestions)?
Want to cram the widest rubber I can in the stock configuration
Will be installing traction bars, but rest of suspension will remain stock this year, but plans are to install air ride system as this will be a bit of a low rider.
Opinions: car will be a sheet metal finish with black powder coated wheels. Interior is black which I am taking out of another Newport.
What gauges will I need to monitor blower and overall performance?
(Thinking boost, oil, tach, temp)
Is a waste gate a good idea?
Looking at an MSD ignition with boost control.
High flow water pump, and high volume oil pump.
Should I go bigger alternator if I am installing a sound system? 2000w
I think that's it for now. If I am over looking anything please let me know. I am not an expert, just did my research and have the . This project I am involved with building. My previous project was hired out.
Thanks guys,
Newport
#8
Sounds doable , you want a cam with with a wide lobe seperation usually 112-114* is where you want to be so the cam will work . You did not list pistons so I have no clue what your compression will work out to .
Building a 727 for this is no problem , you may want to lok at the 518 with OD though , same as the 727 + the 4th gear OD .
I would use TTi headers .
I agree with the choice of guages .
The intake will have a blow off plate , waste gate is not nessisary though .
The Fuel system is critical , you do not want to go lean @ wot make sure you have even 2 pumps , 1 to each carb or a big pump & line split at the carbs .
Be careful with water pumps , some of the alum housings are very restrictive & will cause more heat not less , get a good quality one & a large rad to keep everything cool .
High volume oil pumps are not cool with a stock pan , I would use a high pressure but stock volume Melling oil pump .
Check with scarebird for the disc conversion , they should have adapters
Skip the traction bars , just add 1/2 leafs going forward & clamp them .
It depend what alt you have , most had the small 60 amp alt , you can use the Mopar 100 amp Alt but you need to connect a bypass from the alt across the the battery terminal on the start relay so 100 amp is not going through your ammeter & bulkhead plug otherwise everything will melt !!
Hope this helps
Building a 727 for this is no problem , you may want to lok at the 518 with OD though , same as the 727 + the 4th gear OD .
I would use TTi headers .
I agree with the choice of guages .
The intake will have a blow off plate , waste gate is not nessisary though .
The Fuel system is critical , you do not want to go lean @ wot make sure you have even 2 pumps , 1 to each carb or a big pump & line split at the carbs .
Be careful with water pumps , some of the alum housings are very restrictive & will cause more heat not less , get a good quality one & a large rad to keep everything cool .
High volume oil pumps are not cool with a stock pan , I would use a high pressure but stock volume Melling oil pump .
Check with scarebird for the disc conversion , they should have adapters
Skip the traction bars , just add 1/2 leafs going forward & clamp them .
It depend what alt you have , most had the small 60 amp alt , you can use the Mopar 100 amp Alt but you need to connect a bypass from the alt across the the battery terminal on the start relay so 100 amp is not going through your ammeter & bulkhead plug otherwise everything will melt !!
Hope this helps
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1968newport (11-18-2012)
#10
Thanks guys for the responses! Good to know that I am on the right track with what I am doing. I did a lot of research, so I am glad it will all pay off. I am aiming for compression of 8.1. No higher.
I'd like to get it dyno'd to see what I am getting. As long as its close to 600 I am happy. Still want to use pump gas of 94 octane with no additive.
Thanks again!
Newport
I'd like to get it dyno'd to see what I am getting. As long as its close to 600 I am happy. Still want to use pump gas of 94 octane with no additive.
Thanks again!
Newport
#11
yes he needs an adapter plate for the 518 as it was never bolted to the big block , simple to do though & with the gearing & RPM limits he will not have a lot of top end speed without OD
#12
Mopar Lover
i agree that's the only reason i waited on my 3.91 gear until i could get the 518 swapped in, driving would be no fun with all the rpm's ol girl would be turning.
in over drive she drops down to a reasonable rpm at high way speeds it's a tall gear that 0.69, od and with the lock up an extra 2-8 hundred rpm's,
the speedo cable, and the trany gear for the speedo is the only thing that i'm waiting on,
i might suggest a different trany mount though.
cruising around 40-45 mph is 2000-2200 rpm's when the od is engaged the rpm drop's another 1000-1200 rpm put's me back in the ball park for that high way cruising, then the lock up is nice for cruising just above that 2000 rpm,
i like the feel of the direct lock up the car is a new monster to drive.
i know TCI has 4 to 6 speed auto tranies good for 800 hp and i think they are made for any block size, i think they are using a independent bell housing.
in over drive she drops down to a reasonable rpm at high way speeds it's a tall gear that 0.69, od and with the lock up an extra 2-8 hundred rpm's,
the speedo cable, and the trany gear for the speedo is the only thing that i'm waiting on,
i might suggest a different trany mount though.
cruising around 40-45 mph is 2000-2200 rpm's when the od is engaged the rpm drop's another 1000-1200 rpm put's me back in the ball park for that high way cruising, then the lock up is nice for cruising just above that 2000 rpm,
i like the feel of the direct lock up the car is a new monster to drive.
i know TCI has 4 to 6 speed auto tranies good for 800 hp and i think they are made for any block size, i think they are using a independent bell housing.
#13
Is there a different gear in the back I should use besides a 4.11? I am ok cruising at 2500 rpm on the highway and doing tops 140 mph is plenty for me. This is a street machine, and I have bad luck getting pulled over! I will look into the 518 tranny. I just want to build this once, and do it right the first time. I am not on a budget so cost is no issue.
#16
Mopar Lover
Is there a different gear in the back I should use besides a 4.11? I am ok cruising at 2500 rpm on the highway and doing tops 140 mph is plenty for me. This is a street machine, and I have bad luck getting pulled over! I will look into the 518 tranny. I just want to build this once, and do it right the first time. I am not on a budget so cost is no issue.
there is a time and a place for every thing and it's not when we think it is.
only when it is...!
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1968newport (11-20-2012)
#23
Mopar Lover
It's used to monitor the AFR's of the engine. (Rich or lean.) You SHOULD have one on ANY forced induction motor.
You don't need a wastegate on a blower set up.
You should run a BOV of some sort though to help prolong the life of the forced induction component.
#28
Update
Still working away at it.Acquiring all the parts first then doing the build over the winter. I've done a lot of research and have learned oh so much. Reading my original post for this thread, I was such a newbie.
I decided to stroke to a 450.
I still need rockers, and timing chain, and oil pump, and water pump, etc. but the bulk of it I have.
Will definitely take pics along the way and will post them.
Thank again to all who have helped me thus far.
I decided to stroke to a 450.
I still need rockers, and timing chain, and oil pump, and water pump, etc. but the bulk of it I have.
Will definitely take pics along the way and will post them.
Thank again to all who have helped me thus far.
#29
`that 165 mph is only theoretical. Street blower I would re consider and maybe use a 3.55 gear
IF YOU ARE really going to build a blower for the street ? WHY not get an aftermarket block and build a 600+ ci and build a mountain motor
IF YOU ARE really going to build a blower for the street ? WHY not get an aftermarket block and build a 600+ ci and build a mountain motor
Last edited by TVLynn; 07-11-2013 at 09:20 PM.
#30
Mopar Lover
My 2 cents on gear ratio...... Go the 4.30....Its a happy starting point for your project for street or strip...
A good solid 6.5-7.1 base motor will work good for your blown project.... Just dont boost it to hard.
Oh and a 6-71 should work just fine. Do you have the blower and pulley and brackets setup already?
Keep up Posted....
A good solid 6.5-7.1 base motor will work good for your blown project.... Just dont boost it to hard.
Oh and a 6-71 should work just fine. Do you have the blower and pulley and brackets setup already?
Keep up Posted....
Last edited by RacerHog; 07-12-2013 at 11:49 AM.