Tbjor

Hi, I’m new here, planing to uppgrade my chrysler 383 cid. Ive never buildt an engine before just basic repairs on my cars. I would like to star with small and easy uppgrades to learn about my car and hopefuly make it run well!

The engine i have for what i know is all original, with a stock 727 trans. The upgrade parts i have are: 750 holley vacum secondary, edelbrock rpm inntake, Hooker Headers 5101-1HRK, Hooker maximum flow mufflers.

Will it run well if i just slap these parts on as it is? Or do i have to change cam and headers to make this build work? Any tips?

Coronet 500

Welcome.

These parts with more initial timing and limiting centrifugal advance will make a nice increase in power. If it is an HP 383 the stock cam will work well for a street engine, if it is a low performance 2 barrel engine a camshaft upgrade would be wise.

Archer

T -

I would go with what Dan said. Those upgrades will whet your appetite, and you can think about cam changes later.

The only caveat is the age of the motor.
If it's original, then you might be putting good parts on a worn block/heads/valve train.
I would do compression tests first and visually inspect everything you can. Even things you might not think of, like the fuel pump push rod.

Archer

Tbjor

Thanks, that sound great. For what i know the engine has not been run hard and looks good, but I`l be sure to check the engine closer and get some help doing compression tests.
Dan mentoned RB vs B engine/cam? it is a B engine so maybe i have to consider changing the cam?

Coronet 500

Not comparing B and RB's, looking at only low deck B's like your 383. The HP engine should have a 268/284 .450/.458 camshaft which is a good healthy cam, lower performance 383's have much smaller cams.

Tbjor

Oh ok, is this something i can tell when i get the compression checked?

Archer

T -

Not really on an older motor, the serial number on the block or vin number will tell you, if the car is original.
You might be able to read the rocker/valve travel, but that gets iffy.

If the motor was bone stock and never touched, orange = HP and blue = std.

Archer