I purched a 1968 pm318r engine from a family friend .I was a machinest and a maintenance tech, so im fine with finishing this job but i dont have all the tips and engine parts matchup. So it was built by a friend that raced. It sat for aprox. 30 years and i hope to wake it up.The engine has aprox 50 miles on it.It was in a car,but it had problems, the builder put to heavey of a spring in oil pump relief valve,blew filters out.Ok now. also heads were shaved,how much needs to be figured out.also blew head gaskets out because he didnt cut down head bolts.need to figure how much to cut off.This is what i know.stock heads#2343675-5,block#2536030318-8,bored out to 3.940 over,L2329-030 pistons,piston stroke 3.300,deck to piston clearance 5 thous.,forged and enternal ballenced, can see machining marks,ballenced ,blue brinted,intake elelbrock torker 340,holley 650 dual pumper, will change its junk old.Oversize valves exhust measure 1.788 dia.,4.500 length,.0372 steam dia.and pitted junk from moisture, didnt see any overheeting circles.,oversize intake valves 1.498 dia.,4.500 length,.371 stem dia.,harmonic ballancer solid no damper and ballanced,lifter bore .903,I heard it might of had a 3/4 race cam.,a little big for me?,do i have to change cam bearings for new cam?,and what size is good for street racing?cilinder walls no pitting surface rust minor,manualy turned engine over while putting oil in cilinders mega times.,some pitting on heads and exhust ports. will good gaskets take care of that? any other info i need ill be posting. I prefer that reply is based on rebuilding experance. I wanted to put in a 1968 dart or deamon but even beaters are way out of line on prices. well at least i could sell motor i am just putting the horse before the cart for now. maybe ill find a car, and it keeps me bussy.

 

Welcome. You came to a good place with experienced people here that should be able to answer all your Mopar questions.

The 30yr sit doesn't trouble me but somethings do. The head bolt length issue I've not heard of but that is easily measured. Cam bearings shouldn't need to be changed. I have head number 2(8)43675 as correct year and 60-67.5 cc's.

The externall balance and solid balancer has me curious as even with those pistons an internal balance would be the way to go with stock rods. Does it have 360 connecting rods?

I would be looking to hone the cylinders and add new rings if it measures out OK.
The pitting and descriptions of the heads would make me be taking them to a good Mopar machinist for inspection and rebuild. This would be a good time to think about a different head or magnum head swap as stock 318 heads are puny.

If it were mine, I would be taking every piece apart for a complete thorough inspection, not just bolt on a set of heads and hope for the best.

 

Ok. Here is my 2 cents worth..... Gary
Tear it all down and go threw it completely.
Sound like someone messed up on the Blue Printing of this Motor.....

Sounds a bit Challenging.... But might be worth doing....

Keep us posted....

 

Hey Gary .... Welcome to the forum.... Be sure to check out the Mopar of the Month contest.... You ARE in the right place for a lot of ideas on your Mopar.... More years of experience here than any one wants to admit!!!!! Good luck on your build and keep us posted on your progress....

 

You do need to check everything.. As to the head bolts DO NOT cut them. Get a set of ARP hardened head bolt washers...something with around 268 deg duration-- would work for a good street cam, put a stock oil pump in it unless you have a 7 qt pan..

 

Well guys im not a quitter, im going to need a body. Like dart swinger 68. Im getting somewhat discuraged about prices.Is it worth it. I could just buy a 2012 dodge chalenger, but it wouldent be the same. need a good body im not to good at body work and i dont beleave in bondo. It dont last. Rust never sleeps. you guys should know it like cancer.What do you think?

 

Welcome!