MAP sensor,or other problems
#1
MAP sensor,or other problems
I was going to swap out my 318 engine,for a crate 360/408 stroker,,but was told my MAP sensor,would not work right,,,new to this type of swap,,,any help with the proper way i can do this swap,,,and not going to a carb,and different distributor would be cool,i know the 360/408 is externally balanced,,,my truck i am trying to do this with is a 1996 dakota 4x4 sport. I want to keep the fuel injection if a can,I should add it is a automatic transmission,with over drive. Thxs
Pat
PS: I noticed that my post has been viewed,,,,i am new at this type of questioning,,if i should have posted this in another part of this site,,,any help will be nice,,again thxs.
Pat
Pat
PS: I noticed that my post has been viewed,,,,i am new at this type of questioning,,if i should have posted this in another part of this site,,,any help will be nice,,again thxs.
Pat
Last edited by allcore1@hotmail.com; 10-06-2012 at 07:35 AM. Reason: mistake
#2
Hi Pat
I believe it depends mostly on the cam profile , if the engine makes similar vacuum you should be OK but if the vacuum is low with a more aggressive cam this will affect the MAP & send a different signal to the computer for the engine . You may be able to change the computer program overiding the MAP at idle to a fixed value switching back to closed loop above idle by flashing the computer with new settings , a friend of mine does this all the time with the Mustangs but Daimler is tougher .
My experience is mostly going the other way , I have fitted EFI to older vehicles with a programmable stand alone computer for the EFI , I was able to easily over ride the Map at idle by going to a fixed program at idle & reverting to closed loop above 1500 rpm . This was on a 440 with a solid roller .670 lift race cam & approx 4" of vacuum at idle , you would never have suspected the cam was in there as every cylinder fired every time so it idled like a stock engine !!
I believe it depends mostly on the cam profile , if the engine makes similar vacuum you should be OK but if the vacuum is low with a more aggressive cam this will affect the MAP & send a different signal to the computer for the engine . You may be able to change the computer program overiding the MAP at idle to a fixed value switching back to closed loop above idle by flashing the computer with new settings , a friend of mine does this all the time with the Mustangs but Daimler is tougher .
My experience is mostly going the other way , I have fitted EFI to older vehicles with a programmable stand alone computer for the EFI , I was able to easily over ride the Map at idle by going to a fixed program at idle & reverting to closed loop above 1500 rpm . This was on a 440 with a solid roller .670 lift race cam & approx 4" of vacuum at idle , you would never have suspected the cam was in there as every cylinder fired every time so it idled like a stock engine !!
#3
Pat,
You have numerous things to do to make this work. None difficult and as a collective the folks on here can walk you thru them.
You DAK is OBD2 compliant so you feed the computer data thru the port under the dash.
You current computer or even one for a 360 will not work as is. The computer is loaded with a generic tune that can only adjust for mild changes in environmental and /or mechanical variables. It wont run.
If you haven't pulled the trigger on the crate motor let me make a suggestion?
Consider stroking the 318 to 390 in short block form and keeping everything fuel injected. I can spec you a cam that stay under the retainer to guide clearance and reuse the heads with a low cost spring swap. The savings from heads can go to the tuner and intake and or headers. Reuse the distributer and all the front accessories. Keep AC and power everything. Same internal balance, flex plate, dampner, pulleys etc..
This is the easiest route that will give you fuel injection, same balance, same computer.
You will need to pay 300 dollars for an SCT Tuner and then have it tuned via self logging or dyno. Tune your self if you are so inclined to make the investment in the software or pay an on line tuner to write your tunes ( usually an additional 100 dollars over cost of tuner for life time tunes)
Whats your budget / goal? How do you see this truck being used?
You have numerous things to do to make this work. None difficult and as a collective the folks on here can walk you thru them.
You DAK is OBD2 compliant so you feed the computer data thru the port under the dash.
You current computer or even one for a 360 will not work as is. The computer is loaded with a generic tune that can only adjust for mild changes in environmental and /or mechanical variables. It wont run.
If you haven't pulled the trigger on the crate motor let me make a suggestion?
Consider stroking the 318 to 390 in short block form and keeping everything fuel injected. I can spec you a cam that stay under the retainer to guide clearance and reuse the heads with a low cost spring swap. The savings from heads can go to the tuner and intake and or headers. Reuse the distributer and all the front accessories. Keep AC and power everything. Same internal balance, flex plate, dampner, pulleys etc..
This is the easiest route that will give you fuel injection, same balance, same computer.
You will need to pay 300 dollars for an SCT Tuner and then have it tuned via self logging or dyno. Tune your self if you are so inclined to make the investment in the software or pay an on line tuner to write your tunes ( usually an additional 100 dollars over cost of tuner for life time tunes)
Whats your budget / goal? How do you see this truck being used?
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