Hi I'm new to the forums and I'm working on a 1978 W150 440 auto (shortbed). I've had the truck for a few years but I haven't been able to run it do to the original engine having spun bearings and me having a lack of funds and time. I'm trying to get it going and seem to be having some problems.

The biggest problem is it will not shift into third gear, Its got second first and reverse just fine but third seems to be eluding me. It worked before the truck sat so I'm not sure if its the linkage or? It's full of fluid. I'm not sure what it even is for a transmission I assume it is a 727 but I'm honestly not sure how to tell if someone could explain to me how to tell I'd appreciate it.

The other problem I'm having is I just can't seem to get it to run like it should, it idles fine and revs fine not under a load but when its in gear and I kick the secondaries open it sputters and misses for a bit then it gets power and revs fine. I've drained all the gas have a new fuel pump and rebuilt the carburetor but nothing seems to help it. I have another carburetor but haven't had the chance to try that one yet as its going to need a good cleaning.

I'm looking for any help ideas or opinions, Its not my first time working on a car by any means but its the first time I've tried to make something run as a daily driver that wasn't already a daily driver.

 

I've got some questions as I'm a little confused.

1. You have a 440 RB in there now with a spun bearing or have you fixed the spun bearing?
2. You most likely have a 727 if you have an auto. what color is the tranny fluid?
3. What carb(s) do you have on the motor? (brand and size)

I would look to make sure that you have no vacuum leaks; cracked hoses, missing hoses, kinked hoses, etc.. Also, have you looked to make sure that your timing is set right?

There are a lot more people on the board here that know more than I do so I'm positive that the members will be able to help you through these issues.

 

This sounds like the same problem I ran into during the rebuild on my 1989 W-150. I thought it was a fuel problem too but it turned out to be that the timing was too far advanced. What happened was that I replaced the distributor with an aftermarket unit and a lobe on the original distributor clamp would catch something on the distributor and back the timing off a few degrees. I didn't catch this at first but thankfully a friend did. Once the lobe was ground off the clamp and the engine re-timed, it ran perfectly. Just make sure to check the timing both before and after you tighten the distributor clamp.

 

The transmission problem you speak of is common when engines, carbs, or intake manifolds have been removed and replaced. The TorqFlight A727 uses a mechanical kick-down linkage from the carb down to the transnmission. On this truck, this should be a one piece rod with an adjuster at the top end for the carb connection.

If the adjuster is set up with too much tension (pushing the road back too far), the transmission senses this as a need to kick down. So depending on how far this is out of adjustment, you will have reverse, 1st (which it will stay in too long) and second, but no third as the tranny is being told it needs to kick down to Second, so third never happens at speeds you are driving.

The adjustment for this rod is subjective, meaning that if you have an agressive driving style you can essentially "program" the transmission shift point by fine tuning the rod adjustment. If you have HUGE tires with stock gearing, you'll probably want it to stay in the lower gear a little longer. This can be fine tuned with just some trial and error.

set the rod up so that it does not apply any pressure again the spring until half throttle. Now go drive the truck, and find a long flat straight road where you can do about 40 to 45 mph. From a dead stop, apply very light throttle (just off of idle), and watch the speedo and write down the shift points from first to second, and second to third. If you still have no third gear, then the tranny will have to be opened up to determine why there is no third gear. For this part, We'll assume third gear works fine here. You just recorded the "No Load" shift points of your transmission.

Repeat the process with a good acceleration, like half throttle. With the rod set very loose, the shift points should not really change much, because the 727 only senses load through this kick down rod, and internal oil pressure based on RPM through the governor right behind the park pawl on the output shaft. There are NO vacuum modulators as used on Ford and GM transmissions.

Now...this is where it get interesting. To keep the "No Load" shift points where they are (Generally recommended), adjust the rod so that there is still no tension against the tranny spring at idle or just a touch off of idle, but any more throttle than that and you begin to feel the tensions against the spring in the tranny.

Go do the test drive again, just like before, and note the shift points. "No Load" should be the same, but this time, under acceleration like half throttle, the shift point will be higher.

Here is where compromise comes into play. The internals of the tranny want to up shift as speed increases, but the kick down raises this speed point where the shift will occur as you are speeding up to have better acceleration. It also is used as it's name implies, to kick down to the lower gear based on load and speed. If you like higher shift points like I do, you have to sacrifice some drivability because the tranny will want to kick down more easily. To High a shift point mean it won't want to stay in 3rd driving around town if you set the points too high. In Your situation where there is no third gear at all, that shift point may be currently set beyond the speeds you have driven it, second is all you get, and it probably winds up pretty good in 1st before going into second.

To get the best out of the tranny, I strongly recommend a good quality shift kit for it from Trans-Go (typically considered the best one) or from B&M. There are others too, but these two are the standards for a reason. The kits will improve (B&M) or reprogram (Trans-Go) the shift points, reducing the long delayed overlaps, giving your cleaner crisper shift. Stage 2 set up will raise the shift points as well, but makes it so the kickdown load stays natural or where it normally needs to be. They really make a difference. Installation only requires dropping the pan and removing the valve body to make the modification. The Trans-go stage 2 kit requires some drilling, but it's easy with their instructions, and drill, and jig that is included so no mistakes happen.

Follow those steps, and you'll be back on the road in no time, with a good shifting tranny.


The BAD NEWS...if you did the "No Load" with the kickdown rod completely slack, and you still had no third gear. You're going to have to get under the truck and make sure that the arm that connects to the kickdown road isn't bent or damaged and moves freely with increasing spring effort as it is rotated. Repair any damage you find.

If the linkage is all fine and moves as it should, and still no third gear, You're going to have to open it up, or take it to a tranny shop. Honestly, this is pretty rare as the 727's are damn near bullet proof.

best of luck. by the way, I have the same truck!..About ready to do a full and complete tranny rebuild, and hop up. Since the 440, is pumping out 550 HP, tranny will be fresh and better than new with the Trans-Go stage 2 kit in it.

Richard