After cam install problems
#1
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After cam install problems
Hi everyone, I recently installed the Srt Max Plus cam from intertia motorsports and I’m having a whole lot of valve train noise now. I’m a bit nervous because I don’t want to have a bad cam now if there are lifter issues. It’s just constant tick tick tick noise from under the valve covers. I did have a real fun time trying to get the pushrods back under the rocker arms and in place when putting things back together. Could it be something as easily has the rod coming loose from the rocker assembly. I just want to hear some kind of good news. I’ve been feeling like a real idiot cuz of this being my daily driver.
Last edited by WyattAF2015; 04-11-2019 at 07:15 PM.
#2
Mopar Lover
Wyatt -
Most likely cause of "ticking" is a bad lifter. You did replace them with new ones and soak the new ones in oil before installation, right?
You did set the rocker arms (if adjustable) to spec, right.
Any kind of valve train geometry issue is going to be hard to tell over the net.
Archer
Most likely cause of "ticking" is a bad lifter. You did replace them with new ones and soak the new ones in oil before installation, right?
You did set the rocker arms (if adjustable) to spec, right.
Any kind of valve train geometry issue is going to be hard to tell over the net.
Archer
#3
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What engine are we talking about here and please post the cam specs.
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6.1 hemi. Srt Max Plus Cam. No I did not replace the lifters, but I do think I didn’t tighten the rocker arms down tight enough. They call for 16 ft pounds of torque each bolt. It’s a 218/226 duration cam. I used Lucas assembly lube on the cam before install.
#5
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You can retorque the rockers down. Make sure to use the proper sequence.
#6
Based on what you said you've done, rechecking torque is the obvious prime suspect.
If not that;
New cam usually means new push rods, unless this cam was specifically built to match OEM. It can be a pain to get the right length, especially if you replaced the entire valve train (I lost 6 months of driving and a shop sunk thousands of dollars over work like this).
Also (I know, no insult intended here. I don't know your background.), pushrods are 2 different sizes for intake and exhaust. Best to make sure parts go back in where they came out. Because tolerances, wear, gremlins...
Or the possibility that everything might be fine;
If you upgraded springs, they may just sound different / slap back extended extra fast (titanium does this for example).
But if something doesn't seem right to you, it probably isn't.
If not that;
New cam usually means new push rods, unless this cam was specifically built to match OEM. It can be a pain to get the right length, especially if you replaced the entire valve train (I lost 6 months of driving and a shop sunk thousands of dollars over work like this).
Also (I know, no insult intended here. I don't know your background.), pushrods are 2 different sizes for intake and exhaust. Best to make sure parts go back in where they came out. Because tolerances, wear, gremlins...
Or the possibility that everything might be fine;
If you upgraded springs, they may just sound different / slap back extended extra fast (titanium does this for example).
But if something doesn't seem right to you, it probably isn't.
#7
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#8
Mopar Lover
I agree.. Make sure you have installed all the rite parts. If so... loosen and retorque the rocker asm. Check the valve cover and make sure the rockers are not hitting the underside... Make sure you are using the rite oil filter and the proper weight engine oil.
Listen closely... If the noise is more louder when you first start the engine. I would say that you have the lifter bleed down issue that plegs these HEMI's....
Just my take on it... Keep us posted
Listen closely... If the noise is more louder when you first start the engine. I would say that you have the lifter bleed down issue that plegs these HEMI's....
Just my take on it... Keep us posted
#9
How much of a difference is there in length between intake and exhaust pushrods?
Intake 6.650"
Exhaust 7.850"
Cam change may require MDS delete with change to non mds lifter and blockoff plugs, as mds lifters may collapse. Is it a stick car or automatic?
Last edited by Drag Pak; 04-13-2019 at 11:55 AM.
#10
#11
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I talked with my engine building buddy's today and there saying that the rocker assembly should be replaced with a new one with a new cam. Apparently there is significant wear on the rockers and push rods at the rocker end that can be overlooked. When a new cam is fitted to the used parts it forces the parts past the wear location causing a click. So you should replace rocker assembly and pushrods with a cam change in the gen 3 hemi.
They have started making this standard on every late hemi they overhaul, not all the stockers would have the problem but enough were that it wasn't worth the time and money not to replace them on each motor.
They have started making this standard on every late hemi they overhaul, not all the stockers would have the problem but enough were that it wasn't worth the time and money not to replace them on each motor.
Last edited by Iowan; 04-17-2019 at 11:47 AM.
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