Why not just put the money you are willing to spend on these parts and put it towards the real build of a different 360 in the near future?

 

If you really want to spend your money on this stuff instead of putting towards the other 360 or giving it to me then here you go,

Here is an intake/carb combo: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku

Cam:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...7&autoview=sku

What is the motor going in? A good set of plug wires, high voltage coil, orange box (if your car can use one) would help out too. Roller rockers are a nice touch and can free up 20 to 40 HP.

 

Get an orange box, a set of headers (you'll have to look those up), and a good water pump (I like kooler flow). Just the intake and carb will make a difference with nothing else.

 

agreed

 

Good recipe.

 

Whoa, wait a sec. Gears don't ADD HP or torque, they just allow the power that you already have turn the tires easier.

Twisted said it was going into a 74 Dart Sport. A posi unit would help it to get both tires to spin so you can have more go. I wouls look into swapping in an 8 3/4 rear though. What tranny are you going with Twisted?

 

what inches are the headers?

 

those are some big primary tube headers. You can build a good amount of power with the right heads and intake with those size headers.

 

where is it 1 3-4 inches?
at the collector?

 

it doesnt add any horsepower
if a car has a 440 with 2.75 gears vs. a car with 4.88 gears, they still put out the same power

 

I agree with 66...if you put the car on a dyno machine, the gears will change the at wheel HP, on an engine dyno it test the at crank HP and yes that HP doesn't change.

 

rating at the crank will always be higher than at the wheels

 

More crazy talk...lol. It all depends on the where the dingle arm intersects the retro-encabulator. I thought everyone knew that.

 

haha

 

I talked to 66 through a couple of PMs and turns out we are both wrong in what we said.

Changing the gears of the rear end will not add to the WHP that you have not, nor will multiple it.

Changing the gears will only change the RPM that the powerband is in. If you have a lower gearing (4.56, 4.88, 5.13, etc), you will feel more of your motors max power at a lower speed (great for drag racing to get off the line and for off roading when you are crawling). If you have higher gears (3.27, 2.73, etc), then you will still feel the power but the powerband is a little wide as the gears are allowing you to get to a higher top speed (great for cruising).

 

agreed
i guess it was all "lost in translation"
haha

 

The 8 3/4 wasn't a factory option on A-bodies in 1974, 'course that dont mean you might have one. Usually though if its a original A-body 8 3/4 rear, it will have the small bolt wheel pattern. The 2.45 gear ratio was used by mopar durin gthe smog years {mid '70's}. Usually they were used in the 7 1/4 or 8 1/4 in cars. Actually the factory "crutched" the gears by pairing them with a converter with a higher stall to help get the car moving. 8 3/4 were drop out rears meaning the carrier was removeable from the rearend housing just like a 9' ford rear. all of the other mopar rears had non removeable carriers with a rear cover bolted on the back. 8 1/4 rears were fairley strong and can be updated by using after market axles, when the durango debuted, the 8 1/4 was enlarged the approx 8 3/8. this was a stronger rear with larger axles but used the truck 6 bolt pattern for the wheels. Its possible there was an 8 3/4 with a 2.45 ratio but not in the a-body. the 8 3/4 continued until 1975 [I think] in trucks only. Maybe thay put a 2.45 in a pickup but I dont think so. Hope this helped By the way, a B-Body 8 3/4 axle from 66-70 should fit well under the dart sport. Its about 2.5 inches wider overall.

 

Does the axle have a diff cover or does it look like a ford 9" (there is a third member that houses all the gears and you need to pull the driveshaft to pull it out).

If you have a diff cover, then you probably don't have an 8 3/4 rear axle.