scotts74birds

Just picked-up a 2001 Sebring LX, Gold, 2.7, with 100k and a 2.7 in it for $800. Body and interior are mint. Guy said it had a "rod-knock" in it, was asking $1400. I got there and he said he started it an hour ago to warm it up. But when I got there he said he tried to start it again and it wouldn't start. We tried it again and the motor just free-wheeled. It had dropped the timing chain. The "rod-knock" he thought he heard was probably the sound of the timing chain slapping form a failed tensioner. Anyways, the Chrysler 2.7s are dropping like flies these days. I'm going to roll the dice on this and see if I can become competent at rebuilding the 2.7. There is an opportunity to make some side as there are a ton of them with issues. Good bodys-bad motors. Just an FYI to any brothers that have one of these future grenades. Switch to synthetic..now! They have a problem with "sludging". The timing chain tensioner uses oil pressure to maintain adjustment. Any starvation, or clogging will cause a tensioner failure. Oh, BTW, this is an "interference motor", so you know what a timing chain failure can do!

bboogieart

Still learning welding.
last post I was having trouble with burn through. Well after waiting for some spendable money, and then waiting for the parts to come, I hate waiting. I got a little work done. Using the same # 0 tip I went with a 1/16th filler rod and well look at these. Not the prettiest but perfectly funtional. Passed the flashlight in a dark room test. Penetration was good and the welds were strong. I started with the spot weld to hold the pipe together and just went at it. Keeping the filler in the puddle will take more practice, but I imagine it can only get better. I blew through the pipe twice but was able to fill the hole with out stopping. All in all I think it is going very well. Next a bigger tip and some heavier steel. I have some old frame parts to practice on. Right now I am working with a transmission cross member. I will keep you appraised. Here are some pics of the work.
bboogie

scotts74birds

Gas welding!? I just thought you just really sucked at MIG! Didn't know you were using a gas rig! Gas is a GREAT skill to learn.

bboogieart

74 bird
Thanx, I think,
I like the fire knife, very old school just like me.
still kinda suck, but it's getting better.
The torch seemed the best money spent dollar for dollar.
Very versatile, cut, heat for removal or shaping, and weld all with one tool. Once i get better with the mild steel pipe and the heavier steel for frame and bracket work. I will cut up a few panels and learn sheet metal.
After that it will be a new compressor and learn to do body work.

bboogieart

Did you bench bleed the master? Might want to replace all the lines while you are at it as well. Saves trouble down the road as new parts pass the stress to the older parts.Bad things can happen when brake lines fail.

scotts74birds

Just got the motor out of the 01 Sebring. Its a bitch. But it it is at the rebuilders now. $800 car, $1000 motor, sundries $200, into it for $2000. Hope to sell it for $3200. Theres alot of these 2.7 grenades out there to make some money on.

SimonV8

Yeah i bench bled the master cylinder, I ordered a new proportioning valve from inline tube, which arrived on friday, I got advice from the the tech guy there as they said they didn't have one for the C Body, I looked at the new one before i got it out of the packaging, Its the wrong type, The new one doesn't have the brake pressure sensor fitted to it, and there is no way it'll fit in the new one as the fittings are much smaller than the old one. I can bleed the front brakes no problem, its a dual master cylinder, the rear portion of the reservoir doesn't go down at all, its like the line or proportioning valve is blocked.

scotts74birds

Spring is almost here, and time to repair winter damage to the fleet. 95 Ram 4x4, 265k miles, right outer tie rod. Third times a charm! **** all the Dura-crap brands. Got a Moog replacement this time! Never thought the truck would last this long! $160 at all the local stores, $106 at Amzon.com. No tax, and free shipping! Also needs a left caliper, and a left front wheel u-joint. Going with Spicer this time! This will be the third u-joint for the front axle also. I rebuilt the front end at around 120k, and I just didn't think it would last this long, so I bought cheap parts! We renamed the truck Lazarus. Because I just wont let it die, and keep bringing it back from the dead!

78D200

I will never do with any other u-joint beside Spicer from now on for a DD vehicle. They know how to build a good working u-joint. Brute Force, Neapro are not that great.

MReeves

We only use Spicer 1350's in the race cars.... U-joints is one problem we do not have.

Also got the engine freshened for the Barracuda.. While the out of the car also had the tranny and converter freshened... Now get to re-install the driveline back into the Barracuda and get it back on the track for my weekly racer......

scotts74birds

Picking up the 2.7 from the rebuilders tommorrow. Should have it plugged-in and running by Sunday. Guy at work is interested in the car for his son for $3500. Also wants one for his other son! Wants to buy them the same cars! Will be picking up 2 clean cars next week. 01 Sebring, loaded and leather, 01 Stratus. Both need 2.7's. I'll try to sell him the Stratus, and hopefully, a clean Sebring, with a new motor will be my reward for this work!

78D200

Well since the Valiant is back up for sale and there are a pair of dana 60 axles sitting in my garage.........

Heather gave me the ok to go ahead and buy an older Dodge truck for wheeling as long as the Valiant is sold and she is the one that gets to ride shotgun. Who am I to complain?

I've got a low pinion, passenger side drop, king pin front dana 60 axle that has 4.10 gears and carrier and is missing shafts, spindles and hubs. I need to install all new bearings for the R+P and clean up the housing. I'll be collecting parts for this one soon. As for the rear, I'm going custom. I've got a high pinion center section out of a F*rd F250 (driver side drop, king ping, high pinion). The ends were cut off and sold a while back and I've got a pair of dana 70 rear spindles and hubs (that will fit 35 spline shafts easy) that will match right up. Just need to get a length of tube and install kit as I already have a set of HP dana 60 4.10 gears and carrier sitting on my shelf.

78D200

I also got the go ahead to get a motorcycle.

samuelcosmo76

^ Nice! I'm thinking of picking up a moped this summer. That's not lame is it?

I'm off for spring break this coming week, hoping to get leaf springs and a new gas tank done on the dart.

lgad

Currently me and my Pop are working on my 1950 New Yorker, see pics in the photo album I created. I've got the gas tank out from under it, got the interior pulled out. Need to get the wiring situation under control *(got to find out if it's positive/negative ground, and repair broken wires), get the seat(s) covered*(I was thinking about getting a couple of bucket seat out of a wreck/junk yard car for the backseat area). It will be different, maybe a shot of grey or black primer, paint the wheels red or ?, definitly a ratrod, not looking to put any real money into it. Needs tires, brake check-up, fuel pump/carb check-up, maybe oil and coolant change? Anyone have a suggestions about changing the steering wheel, the orginal one crumbled to pieces and it's hard to steer the wire rim that's left!lol! Pictures to come later! Maybe today or tomorrow if I get a chance?

bboogieart

Been gettin at the Chrysler. Hitch & gas tank are out. Still need warmer weather to get cleaning underneath and engine compartment. I use mineral spirits and need the doors open Don't wanna star in the what did I do stupid thread. Brakes are in process cleaning and making a list of parts to replace. Master looks good gonna rebuild the wheel cylinders. All lines will be new. Still conflicted about the front end while the motor is out. Kinda wanna see it run again, it has been awhile.
Been melting some metal and making some progress. It's all about matching the heat and speed to the metal.
I will post more pictures when I have some thing to show.
Also cleaning up the yard and getting set for summer.
The bike waits for now, but I am sure it will only take the sound of a few thundering by to get me to get after it. Chasing a short.

69528

Tore down the 528, replacing all bearings, hot tanking and repainting the block, having the T56 rebuilt, getting a fresh coat on the underside of the 69, replacing the brakelines, etc to get it ready for summer.bout 1 1/2 to 2 months work on my schedule. -Might even through in a coat of clearcoat to round it off.

Ernie

Hi there, I`m kinda new to this forum so please bear with me, I`v got a 46 Dodge, that I mounted on a 74 Ford Galaxy framewith a "400-m" engine that I just wore out in the last 20 years , I just purchased a wrecked 88 Diplomat for the 318 and the transmission that I plan to install in my Dodge, my question is ..........just under the exhaust manifolds there are large cambers (?) on the exhaust pipes what the heck are they and what do they do ? and will my 318 run without em ?

scotts74birds

Set the new motor in the 01 Sebring today, after I got home at 5:30. In the driveway, Temp, 40 deg. Wind, 25mph. Raining. Did it by myself as no competent help available! "No, I'm fine, let the stepkids finish their World of Warcraft quest!" No sense in them learning a work ethic, or discomfort now. They havent helped in 6 years, why start? They're all over 18.

78D200

You have any pics of these large chambers?

78D200

Picked up a 2002 Honda Shadow VT1100C last week. Got about 75 miles of riding in on it already. Black with the normal chrome and a set of pipes. The carb was never re-jetted though so that'll be the first thing I do. After that a set of handle bars and different set of pipes are in order. I'll get some pics posted at some point (once it stops raining).

scotts74birds

Great score Timmy! For a Honda, it has a nice chopper/cruiser profile that you will like! I'm not a Harley snob. To me, it's all about having two wheels.

scamp1975

i am working on my first car that i got when i was 16 i am now 19 the first winter i had it i did all the body work myself had to cut and weld in some new metal took a few times to get it right than it was my first time painting and lets just say i had to do alot of sanding. than i got it done just in time for mopars in the park and place 2nd in the a bodys class. now i am diving in to a new project doing a motor for my first time i wanna pull out the 318 and put a built 360 in and i got it all done and ready but its hard to find time to get it in the car cause i am a college student and a fire fighter and every weekend we try to put it in i get a call i have to respond to but i will have it in the car for 2011 mopars in the park car show hoping to take first in the young guns

scotts74birds

Any Guru's out there that can tell me the wire colors for the bank 1, O2 sensors for a 01, 2.7 Sebring? I was pretty good at labeling everything but those. I cant tell the upstream from the downstream connectors. Thanks!

78D200

Upstream is usually black and downstream is usually gray....... I think.

78D200

It looks like I'll be rebuilding some D60s here shortly. rear is out of a 78 W250 with a 440 BB. The other is a front out of a W350. Both are staying with 4.10 gears but are getting all new bearings, shims, seals, and being cleaned up and painted.

78D200

Well the guy bailed on his axles which is probably a good thing since I will be bringing home a 93 yj today to stuff into the garage.

RROriginals

Still hard at work with my Roadrunner, doing some engine dress-up now

scotts74birds

01 Sebring sold today...$3400...ching!! I'll use the money to start on the other 2 Sebrings I bought.

bboogieart

This thread has been a little stagnant so I will try to get it going again.
Right now My big project is babysitting the Grand kids.
How ever I have just about got the brakes done. Between the weather and the kids I have been making slow progress. The parts are all cleaned and installed. The rear shoes are not moving. I have heard of shoes needing to be ground to fit. Not a fan of that idea. Soon as I get some time in the garage I will pull all four drums remove the hubs from the fronts and get em turned. I am under the impression that the new shoes may be a tad over sized for this reason. Any thoughts. I still need to install the booster and run the hard lines. Once bled out it will be time to drop the motor and trans.
I am going to try to link to my bucket account to show some progress.

http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/l...view=slideshow
It works from my computer let me know if you can see it.