Quick google search found this
http://www.benplace.com/pressure_test.htm

 

thanks for posting it

 

Sort of. It is a pump with a guage connected to it. Build pressure with the pump to 16psi and watch it to see if it drops (which it shouldn't). Let it stand for a while for a good accurate test.
What I said earlier about compression is only correct if the engine has not been modified, so ask.
The car has been resprayed white over green. Look for bondo (if any) in structural places. Also check the frame rails to see if they have ever been bent in case of a wreck. Make sure body panels align.
Finally, make sure that he has ALL of the paperwork. As I can see from the pictures, it is not registered and liscensed, but every state has different laws.
With these things in mind, good luck.
By the way, the valves cant be adjusted because they are wraped around a rocker shaft, that is why 318's and other mopar blocks came factory with hydralic lifters. Ask about any engine mods.

 

ok, ill ask my grandfather or my neighbor if i can borrow a coolant pressure tester. thanks.

the guy said that the car used to be the exact same color as the interior, he said it just looks green from the pictures.

i think bondo was used no the front quarter behind the tire, you can see it in the picture 4th from the bottom. correct me if im wrong though, it just looks a little strange.

also in that same picture you can see that the chrome on the side doesn't match up from the quarter to the door.

he also says for a car that is older than like i think he said 25 years, in Rhode Island doesn't have a title, it has some paper work from the RMV, and he says he has all that. ill have my father look it over before i buy it.

ill ask him about the compression, and any engine mods for it to be pushing 160 PSI next time i call him (should be a couple days)

i also noticed that there are no pictures of the passenger side. ill be taking a good look at that to.

also, it is good it has hydrolic lifters, and that the valves cant be adjusted?

 

It is not a question of good or bad. Hydraulic lifters have been used forever. Research the difference between hydraulic and mechanical (solid) lifters on google, otherwise i would be writing paragraghs about them.

 

well, i guess my dad talked to the guy while i wasn't home. he now says that teh brake lights are stuck on. he thinks that it is just the switch. hard to fix?

 

the brake switch is pretty easy to fix.just a bit tight to get to.if you dont know where to find it isright behind the brake pedal.you will see the wire going to it

 

well, i should be getting the car this Sunday. this has been the longest week of my life

 

they are fine

 

just called the guy. so here is what is going down.

with the car he is going to give me the intake and carb, now he says he has valve seals i can have also. he has agreed to re-doing the compression test so i ca see. he says it has 130-140 in each ( i must have heard him wrong last time when i thought he said 160). i should be buying it Sunday afternoon. ill get pics and info up as soon as i get it.

i cant thank you guys enough. if you guys/gals didnt help me out, i wouldnt have any idea of what i was doing. Thanks!

 

keep us posted

 

well i got the car today, well to sum it up. POS. but it is my POS.

well hers the run down. with rust, there is not much, the worst being a little on the quarters, and some above the trunk lid.

the engine has good compression. the bad about it, is that it is a bitch to start. you need to dump a little gas in the carb to fire it up,and its still a SOB to get up and idling. im hoping the new carband intake he gave me will clear this up. ( im going to need a littel help with this, i think i got it, but once i take it off wont anti freeze go everywhere near the push rods and stuff? how do i get that out?)

the exhaust sounded awesome. nice and throaty but mild like the way i like. the reason i say sounded is because he had flex pipe form the header to the pipe before, and while towing it here, one a side fell off. so now one side is straight piped. im planning on having my friend just bend me up some pipe to just weld to on and stuff.

the head lights don't work, i have no idea why, but that will be another adventure.

the interior in kinda beat. but usable. except the head liner. it is DONE, no chance of doing anything with it.

well, im planning on getting a better look at it in the next week. (its dark now, and supposed to down pour tomorrow)

 

pics?

 

ill get some....maybe Tomorrow. but probably Tuesday since its going to rain tomorrow. hopefully i get to wash it before pics. i can tell just looking at it, it just looks worse from being flat out dirty.

 

oh yah, also the brakes. the brakes go from 0% stopping power to 90%-100% stopping power. there is no in between. hard fix?

 

hey 64 Polara, do you know if this 318 is the "Polysphere" version of the 318. (original for the '64).


ALERT!!!! Do not drive this car until the brakes are fixed!!!
Do not drive this car until the brakes are fixed!!!


The reason>>> This car came equipped with a single resevoir master
cylinder. There is NO safety margin with this design.
You are on the verge of no brakes at all.

On the 1967 cars and newer, they had what is known as a dual resevoir master cylinder. If your front brakes were lost, you still had the rear brakes to stop in an emergency. On your car, there is no saftey margin with the old "fruitjar" style of master cylinder that you have.


Of course, if your car has been updated to the new style(2 lines coming out of the master cylinder) some of this advice goes out the window.
Either way, you need to get those brakes fixed!! This is serious stuff.

 

i know the guy recently put in a new master cylinder. butit still only has one brake line coming out.

 

yes, that is the old "fruitjar" master. Sounds like some brake bleeding might be needed. If anything, just make sure that everything is in good working order with all the lines bleeded. Of course, upgrading to the dual master would be a good idea in the future. Make sure the brake shoes are adjusted properly and that the self adjusters are working (not rusted up). Also, make sure that the fluid level is up to the top at all times. You will have to check this more often til you are sure that ther are no leaks.
Oh well, I guess you gotta start some where. The brakes are a good starting point cause they are somewhat easy to work on. Good project for learning you have there!

 

thanks.

i just hope i didn't bite off more than could chew. the way i feel right now. as long as i can get this engine running clean, this was a good buy.

 

hey 64 polara remember this tidbit of advice. the lug nuts on your car are LEFT hand thread (opposite of normal) on the LEFT (drivers side) of the car. So when you go to remove the wheel and you forget about this, try turning the lug wrench in the other direction. Remember , this is only on the drivers side. Most newbies to the MOPAR hobby have a fit with this. It's lots of fun when they post in with the problem. Just thought I'd give you a heads up. You seem fairly cool and you are genually interested so consider this advice a "freebie" just for joining in. ENJOY!!!

 

thanks! i probably would have had trouble with that, and not even posted it because i would feel like an idiot for not being able to take off a tire haha.

 

so, i have the intake and carb. im planning on buying the intake and carb base gasket tomorrow. what else do i need? do i need new carb studs, and new intake bolts? (the bolts to bolt down the intake, not really sure if they have a name)

also, i know that when i takeoff the intake, anti freeze will go everywhere. do i just wipe it up out of the engine? if there is any where with a step by step installation guide that would be great. i think i could figure it our, but i really just don't want to mess anything up.

 

That is a cool looking car! I can see why you want to get it. Kudos for financing the car and gas yourself, you don't see that much these days!

 

well, where do i start.

to get the car to look nice on the outside, what i need to do is fill-in only 2 maybe 3 spots with bondo, and sand the entire car to get it ready for paint.

where should i start? should i begin sanding the car before or after the bondo?

the entire car needs to be sanded a decent amount. the guy who owned it before me painted it white, over the blue-green color. a lot of the white is now peeling off. should i begin sanding even though the car wont be able to be painted for a while (do to budget)? i read on mopar muscle that they say not to do sanding/prep work unless you plan on getting the car painted soon after.

i should be getting pictures up tomorrow. ill try and get pictures of the worst rust and damaged parts of the car.

just thought i would throw it out there, that i don't own any sanders, this will all be hand sanding

EDIT: actually i just looked it up, i can get an electric 5" orbital sander pretty cheap, ill probably go that route.

 

www.HarborFreight.com is a great place for tools on the cheap.

 

nice one buddy .
mate i think a good place to start would be to save some money & get some good tools & a workshop manual . hell you could probably find every thing you need to know on line well a hell of a lot any way . i would give it the best clean that it's ever had , more for your sake when working on the lady . i would find some axle stands / cement blocks / bricks etc & a car jack .
the car looks quite tidy to begin with . i would do a routine fluid check /change . while always on the look out for cracked or worn hoses ( especially around the hose clamps ) . change the oil with just new cheap stuff just as a engine flush . at the same time change oil filter also the cheapest one you can find ( just for the oil flush ) . change your petrol / fuel filter . remove your spark plugs , clean them & use a girls nail file or sand paper to get the clean metal showing , or buy new spark plugs & have the plug gap set correctly .
if the radiator water/coolant isn't green drain the radiator from the bottom hose at radiator end . ( shitty water will gush out ) take off or loosen the radiator cap because it will drain quicker . refill it with coolant REMEMBER to run the engine for 5 Min's then recheck coolant level . with engine warm go though all the gears then back to park go check the transmission dipstick . it's near the back of the engine on the passenger side ( while still running) . if it's not full top it up through that same dip stick tube until it says full .
i would ask somebody who knows how to bleed brakes to help/show you how to bleed brakes . they may also know a thing or to about the carby & timing also .
i recommend using a good running stock carb for now or a 2 barrel that was recently running on a std good / running 318 then buy a new air filter to suit . keep your 4bbl & manifold get it all cleaned & carby checked out & buy a linkage kit & kick down cable to suit . KEEP SAVING MONEY
next I'd look at is getting a electronic ignition & orange ignition box & coil . SAVE MORE MONEY. in the mean time keep doing little things hear & there . you really should have a mechanic check , the diff oil , change transmission filter & gasket . check shocks & bushes & front end . & full safety check .
i think that would be a good place to start .
well welcome to the forum & enjoy that wicked old classic piece of steel . your car will sound nice if it's just tuned & running well .

 

Thanks!

i did clean it, but only with water, no soap. i would of had to wash off teh soap, and my hose is frozen, and its supposed to be like 20 degrees tomorrow, so i didnt want to get to much water on the car.

after school today, i will be bring the car across the street to my neighbors garage. he has a pit, and he will be helping me (teaching me) look over stuff.

ill get as much of that stuff done, as soon as possible as long as money permits. haha.

i hope bleeding the brakes fixs them. anything bigger will just give the rest of my family more reason to b***h and whine at me for buying this car. the only people who think this was a good idea is my dad and barely my friends.

what is the differance between a DA sander and an orbital? i read somewhere that to sand a car, to get a DA it said specifically to not get a orbital. why is this? i was planning on getting the $20-$30 orbital form harbor. i cant afford to get a DA, and an air compressor.

EDIT: haha no i havent given it a girls name yet. maybe when i paint it and it looks pretty. right now it looks bad, but sounds nice, should i name it susan boyle? haha

 

susan boyle hahahaha

if you sign up for harbor's email list, you'll get a 20% coupon once every month. i have so many tools from them....quality stuff.

looking back on buying my car, I realize i should have at least attempted to fix the things i paid people to do (pitman arm and calipers). my money pit is finally starting to close up.....you can do it!

 

i know this is probably a stupid question, but how do i remove the chrome on the sides/windows ect.? i really want to start sanding and such as soon as possible, but i dont know how to get the damn chrome off.

 

here is the pics. ill try and get a better pic of the rust spot tonight or tomorrow.