'66 Chrysler, headlight switch woes, dual field alt
09-14-2013, 09:32 PM
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'66 Chrysler, headlight switch woes, dual field alt
Hi all,
I'm trying to get my long overdue project completed. 1966 Chrysler 300 convertible, Rebuilt 383ci. Just accomplished the first engine start this car has seen in 28 years and it went surprisingly well.
My main headache: The headlight **** will not pull out! I can twist it just fine for the dimmer, but it won't come out to the parking light position or the headlight position. I have gotten frustrated and pulled with all my might and it doesn't budge. It almost feels like it's not supposed to come out, (it is, right?)
The catch 22 is that to remove the whole switch assembly, it sounds like you must FIRST pull switch to 'headlight' position, then push the tiny button under the box and remove the **** and shaft out the front, then you can remove the box from behind the dash. Since I can't go to 'on' position, I can't even remove the switch to get a new one. I guess last resort will be to cut the **** off. Any ideas at all out there?
My next problem: we replaced the single field alternator with a powermaster dual field. I wired it through a new voltage regulator as shown in a mopar performance upgrades book I have, also the same as shown here:
I'm not sure what voltage regulator we have, there's no labels on it at all, but I believe it's a generic electronic one. Not the mopar performance one with the triangular plug (do you need this one?). Anyway there was no charging with the engine running. Connections seemed good, ammeter showed discharge and system had under 12 volts. Ideas of what to check next?
Now to fix a power steering leak, and the brake booster doesn't seem to be working either...
I'm trying to get my long overdue project completed. 1966 Chrysler 300 convertible, Rebuilt 383ci. Just accomplished the first engine start this car has seen in 28 years and it went surprisingly well.
My main headache: The headlight **** will not pull out! I can twist it just fine for the dimmer, but it won't come out to the parking light position or the headlight position. I have gotten frustrated and pulled with all my might and it doesn't budge. It almost feels like it's not supposed to come out, (it is, right?)
The catch 22 is that to remove the whole switch assembly, it sounds like you must FIRST pull switch to 'headlight' position, then push the tiny button under the box and remove the **** and shaft out the front, then you can remove the box from behind the dash. Since I can't go to 'on' position, I can't even remove the switch to get a new one. I guess last resort will be to cut the **** off. Any ideas at all out there?
My next problem: we replaced the single field alternator with a powermaster dual field. I wired it through a new voltage regulator as shown in a mopar performance upgrades book I have, also the same as shown here:
I'm not sure what voltage regulator we have, there's no labels on it at all, but I believe it's a generic electronic one. Not the mopar performance one with the triangular plug (do you need this one?). Anyway there was no charging with the engine running. Connections seemed good, ammeter showed discharge and system had under 12 volts. Ideas of what to check next?
Now to fix a power steering leak, and the brake booster doesn't seem to be working either...
09-15-2013, 07:25 AM
#3
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On the switch, you are rite... You'll need to get the **** off to get to the nut to remove the switch.... Prying it didn't work ether?
Check to make sure you have a 12 volt source from the ing. switch. Sounds like its not energizing the reg. Also Try a ground strap from the engine to the body....
Check to make sure you have a 12 volt source from the ing. switch. Sounds like its not energizing the reg. Also Try a ground strap from the engine to the body....
09-15-2013, 04:35 PM
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Thanks racerhog,
I'm afraid to pry the switch because I'll have to brace it against the plastic chrome ring around the ****, and that will surely shatter.
With the key in the ON position, both field terminals are receiving 12 volts. One of those wires comes from the regulator, so that must be getting power. I'm going to try to improve the ground of the regulator to the firewall, and see if that helps.
I do have a grounding strap from the engine.
I'm afraid to pry the switch because I'll have to brace it against the plastic chrome ring around the ****, and that will surely shatter.
With the key in the ON position, both field terminals are receiving 12 volts. One of those wires comes from the regulator, so that must be getting power. I'm going to try to improve the ground of the regulator to the firewall, and see if that helps.
I do have a grounding strap from the engine.
09-15-2013, 05:16 PM
#6
Mopar Lover
Well... in that case.... One of two things is what I would do.....
1. get under the dash and get the switch separated (metal from bake-o-lite)
2. get a 3 jaw small puller to clamp around the **** and pull it with both hands.
But with that one your going to more than likey break the **** off....
1. get under the dash and get the switch separated (metal from bake-o-lite)
2. get a 3 jaw small puller to clamp around the **** and pull it with both hands.
But with that one your going to more than likey break the **** off....
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