73 satellite problems...
10-23-2007, 08:24 AM
#1
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73 satellite problems...
i got a 73 satellite with a 318 and its not running right, i think it might be out of time. its got a mis, i think the coil might be bad i'm going to change the coil and i'm going to regap the plugs, whats the gap suppose to be on this engine? i changed the volt regulator, control module and ballist resistor and got it to start again but its still got a mis and it doesn't have much power. any advice would be appreciated. thanks...
11-05-2007, 08:13 PM
#3
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i think the coil might be bad
LA engines are almost univerally 0.035" plug gap (use Champion copper plugs). Timing is generally 10 degrees BTDC (late '70's and '80's 318's are sometimes as high as 16). Be sure to check the condition of the cap and rotor. Also, '73 should be single pick-up coil; it could be failing, or improperly gapped from the reluctor (0.010"-0.012").
But make sure your problem is not mechanical. Broken valvesprings, burned exhaust valves, dead tappets or flat cam lobes will all cause a misfire. My '78 Apsen had a flat lobe on the #7 exhaust. Not a common problem for Mopars, but if there's lots of gumming on the tappets, they'll hang up and flatten cam lobes. Mechanical problems are easiest to find by checking compression. Confirm that the cylinder showing low PSI is the faulty hole by yanking plug wires one at a time and listening to see which one doesn't drop RPM or increase roughness.
Last edited by SixtySixDeuce; 11-05-2007 at 08:25 PM.
11-11-2007, 10:24 AM
#4
Sixtysix, that's not necessarily true. I've seen several failed coils that "gave trouble."
My own 69 RR--started running worse and worse, and harder to start over a period of days and weeks. FINALLY one day just refused to start at all. Here was the coil, even leaking a little oil.
My friend's '65 Chevelle, started missing at high end--under load. Finally got a little more and a little more worse.
This problem could be a number of things, including a bad valve or other cylinder problem, a crack/ track/ wet/ dirty cap/ rotor, bad wire or wires, or wires "leaky" and crossed so that they are crossfireing.
You just need to methodically go through things
CAREFULLY examine the cap and rotor, and maybe just replace them if there's ANY question
Take an ohmeter an measure each plug wire. They should be "about" equal. As you hold the ohmeter leads, wiggle and shake the wires.
Examine the wires carefully for damage, heat, cracks, oil soaked, etc
Snap the rotor to see if the advance weights move easily and "snappy" on the springs--that the mechanism isn't gummed or rusted up.
From your description, it's hard to say--you say "it's not running right". THAT covers a lot of ground
You say "it might be out of time." Why do you think so? Was the distributor loose or did someone move it? Modern Mopars with electronic distributors just don't get out of time, unless something bad is happening, like a timing chain badly worn, or worse, the crap phenolic timing sprocket wearing and (gasp) jumping teeth
If you seem to have a mis, such as one or two cylinders, checking the compression is always a good move.
One thing to ALWAYS try if you suspect a miss at one or two cylinders is to try this:
Get the engine warmed and idling as smooth as possible. Hook up a tach, either your dash tach or a test tach/dwell.
Rig a test clip to a small screwriver or sharp awl. GENTLY work the boots off the distributer so you can get the wires out.
Using a plastic fuse puller tool, pull one wire at a time, and short the empty distributor terminal with your wire/screwdriver, to prevent the spark from cross firing.
Observe the sound of the engine, and the tach
If all cylinders are "good" the tach should drop the same rpm at each cylinder. A "dead" cylinder will be immediately apparrent--the tach won't drop much if at all, and you will hear the engine--won't change speed much.
Throwing parts at the thing isn't the way to go at this.
My own 69 RR--started running worse and worse, and harder to start over a period of days and weeks. FINALLY one day just refused to start at all. Here was the coil, even leaking a little oil.
My friend's '65 Chevelle, started missing at high end--under load. Finally got a little more and a little more worse.
This problem could be a number of things, including a bad valve or other cylinder problem, a crack/ track/ wet/ dirty cap/ rotor, bad wire or wires, or wires "leaky" and crossed so that they are crossfireing.
You just need to methodically go through things
CAREFULLY examine the cap and rotor, and maybe just replace them if there's ANY question
Take an ohmeter an measure each plug wire. They should be "about" equal. As you hold the ohmeter leads, wiggle and shake the wires.
Examine the wires carefully for damage, heat, cracks, oil soaked, etc
Snap the rotor to see if the advance weights move easily and "snappy" on the springs--that the mechanism isn't gummed or rusted up.
From your description, it's hard to say--you say "it's not running right". THAT covers a lot of ground
You say "it might be out of time." Why do you think so? Was the distributor loose or did someone move it? Modern Mopars with electronic distributors just don't get out of time, unless something bad is happening, like a timing chain badly worn, or worse, the crap phenolic timing sprocket wearing and (gasp) jumping teeth
If you seem to have a mis, such as one or two cylinders, checking the compression is always a good move.
One thing to ALWAYS try if you suspect a miss at one or two cylinders is to try this:
Get the engine warmed and idling as smooth as possible. Hook up a tach, either your dash tach or a test tach/dwell.
Rig a test clip to a small screwriver or sharp awl. GENTLY work the boots off the distributer so you can get the wires out.
Using a plastic fuse puller tool, pull one wire at a time, and short the empty distributor terminal with your wire/screwdriver, to prevent the spark from cross firing.
Observe the sound of the engine, and the tach
If all cylinders are "good" the tach should drop the same rpm at each cylinder. A "dead" cylinder will be immediately apparrent--the tach won't drop much if at all, and you will hear the engine--won't change speed much.
Throwing parts at the thing isn't the way to go at this.
11-11-2007, 10:48 AM
#5
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Great info runner. That is what I was talking about when I asked if the miss had been isolated. One of the main reasons I love Mopar stuff is that they are tough. Usually on a misfire problem the fix is simple enough that most anyone can do the repair.
Kenny
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