I bought a new ignition system with a new control module (4 pin), coil, and distributor. Its Part # HRR688D at http://4secondsflat.com/Ignition.html.
So It says it eliminates the use of the ballast resistor. But im not sure how to do that and I didnt get any instructions. Has anyone done this before?

1974 318 Roadrunner

 

4 prong resistor

 

This is what i have to work with. The white wire is the wire that is supposed to bypass the ballast. how am i supposed to do this? Do i use it for the top set or the bottom? How does it go in? Does it go into the plastic connector boot?

 

 

I don't really like the looks of the jumper they supplied, as those connections could lead to..........poor connections.

In your bottom photo, I believe the blue on one end are all connected together and are "ignition run." You can verify that by pulling the blue (wires) plug off and check with a light with key "in run." Should be hot in run.

Hook that jumper from there to the two that have the brownish wires.

I thing you'll find the green/ stripe single wire coming out of the ballast feeds back to the ECU, and is not used on the 4 wire units.

Here's the thing:

Original, older style "5 pin" ECUs MUST have a 4 pin ballast

Newer "4 pin" ECU CAN use either 2 or 4 pin ballast---it's just that the green/ stripe wire side is not used in the 4 pin ECU

You cannot tell a 4 pin from a 5 pin ECU by looking, because some 4 pin boxes have 5 physical pins. You have to use an ohmeter to see if the 5th pin "goes anywhere."

HEI conversion modules, or the FBO box you bought essentially wire up like a newer 4 pin Mopar ECU, except of course you can bypass the resistor.

I use an HEI module fired by a Mopar breakerless distributor, LOL, and I payed one heck of a lot less than you did for that FBO box.

 

Does this look right?

The jumper goes from the brown wires to the blue. The bottom set arent even plugged in. Will this work?

If so then i have to figure out my starter/fuse/idk issue in order to test to see if it worked.

 

Can't get your photo to load but sounds right. NOTICE that the "blue" both those end connectors are actually connected together.

The "two browns" should end up at the coil +