I got the engine back together and started it. Usual stuff: distributor 180 degrees out, stubborn fuel pump, battery issues. As the car was idling, I noticed the white rectangular part in the middle of the firewall was smoking. I touched it and it felt like it was ceramic and it was VERY hot. In the picture, it is just behind the air cleaner and its mounted diagonally with wire plugs on each end. What is this part and should I replace it? Also, is the timing for a 1974 Dodge Charger 318 10 degrees before? TY.

 

do i see a hose used for a fuel line? i hope not

 

Ooops. Yes. Replace that asap? I think I still have the steel original somewhere but I couldn't make it work with the Edelbrock fuel filter.

 

That is the ballast resistor for the ign circuit. It will get hot so if thewre was any oil/grease on it from the repairs it will smoke for a while till the oil burns off
Calls for 5 but 10 is a good starting point

 

The ballist resistor lowers the voltage to the coil. Running a full 12 volts to the coil will shorten it life dramaticly you should have about 9 volts at the + side of the coil. If your going to use hose for fuel line which is ok in certain places use EFI hose it is alot heavier/stronger than regular fuel hose and rated for much higher working pressure.,By the way it looks good...Bill

 

toss the Edelbrock . use an OEM AFB. or rejet the Edelbrock to the jeting like an OEM AFB. Edelbrock does NOT know how to jet a carb. i am talking about a mopar engine with OEM cams. if it is an all race engine thats a differnt ball game.

 

run your fuel filter between the tank and the pump.

 

Maybe the Edelebrock needs to be re jetted ??? Anything you use to day is going to need tuning to deal with the crap gas.. but it is new and not a worn out AFB They have very good tuning instructions

 

Moe: Thanks. I think you are right. I bought the carb, filter and jet kit from a guy who had the carb on a hi performance 340. He didn't like the E carb. Plus, when he handed me the jet kit he was almost telling me "your gonna need this". Unfortunately, jetting a carb is beyond my scope. Maybe down the road. TY.

 

to jet an E carb fallow this rule. start off be by useing rods that have a small amount of change in the cruse step and the power step dia. if you check a chrysler OEM AFB that is what chrysler did. second change only a rod or a jet, do NOT change both at the same time. cause you can not guess what the total change will be. when changing ether remember a change from .060 to .061 is much less than a change of .100 to .101. both are .001 ie one thounsandth. i do have a program that will cal any change, ie change both rod and jet. do not put the jet in tight just sung is fine. if a jet does not come out easy. dont force it. get a small torch and heat the jet when the flame color changes dump water on it. remember just sung for the jet.

 

Take that eddy and use it for a wheel chalk. Put a holly on it, you will be much happier....

 

Moe: do you think I should remove the E carb and intake and put the old stock intake and stock 2 barrel back on it? I think I would have to rebuild the carb as it was in sorry shape. See pic's. TY. I was going for a little more performance but I value your opinion.

 

for a daily driver a 2bbl would be ok. not as fast,as 4 bbl. a stock 318 doesnt much carb. sometimes a 4 bbl will get better MPG. for two reasons. 1, the 4bbl has smaller primary throats than a 2 bbl. IF you keep your foot out of it. 2. the chrysler AFB 4 bbls have THE best curcit design, EVER. i see so many converts to 4 bbl done so poorly, i have to just close my eyes and go on.