the tach wire on the coil is colored yellow on my distributor. I dont understand why I can start the car with a cable from the battery, otherwise with this cable to the IGN fuse box I cant fire the engine.

 

Look at the second post down... See if you have color code similar... Looks like the pink wire is what you need going to the HEI

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...iagram.214325/

 

yes I have all the color wires on my car I think. clarify please where each color wire has to go to. I already deleted the pink wire that goes to the hei batt terminal and placed there a Red 12 gauge battery wire with connection to the fuse box IGN. which color code wire is the correct install on the starter solenoid? I have nothing on the r position of the solenoid

 

Check the pink wire... See if it has power in the cranking position and in the Run position ?

I dont think you need the (R) unless you want to add it ..... That may require rewiring the car to an early style GM wiring ?

 

pink wire only has power in the on position. it loses voltage when I crank the engine. today was also the first time the car wont start with power directly to the coil coming from the battery! I checked the r and s terminals today and there I have only power if the engine cranks! (key crank position). no power at off and on position

 

Regarding your starter solenoid terminals. That is all working fine. You SHOULD only have power present during cranking otherwise your starter would be engaged all the time. "S" is the trigger input.

"R" or sometimes labeled "i" is an auxiliary output terminal used for older pre-HEI vehicles that used breaker point ignition. "R" would have been wired to the + positive side of the ignition coil to temporarily bypass the ballast resistor during engine cranking thus providing full battery voltage to the coil for easier startups.

 

worked on the car today. installed a cable to the r terminal and twisted them together with the power wire to the hei. I twisted the 2 cables together down at the fuse box and put them in a new male connector for the IGN fuse box. new today is that the IGN fuse box place had only 5 volts today. yesterday I had 12 volts there. could start the car today 1 time by using the BAT fuse place. there I have 12 volts. car run a few minutes without getting out themselve. I had to pull off the male connector from the fuse box to stop the engine. choke light was on during engine running and run at high rpm all the time with choke plate full opened. couldnt start the car again. also the analog battery voltage display in the dashboard instrument panel showing the nail under 8 volts! battery reloaded fully overnight. multimeter says 13 volts battery power. also over 13 volts power on the coil in the key on position. couldnt start the car again, just cranking.

 

There is a lot going on here. I think it would be best to back track any changes you've made and try to find the root cause of your issue rather than trying to jumper or bypass around it...

 

the pins and connectors inside the big bulkhead connector behind the brake booster on the driverside wall are full of black sticky tar. is this normal?

 

problem solved, it was a combination of bad ignition module and 3 bad spark plugs (electrode gap too much closed) and a wrong ignition timing. the car already has 1 weakness still: if the engine is cold the car will fire immediately (also few times back to back). if the engine gets warm the car fires with problems and first time it wont fire today at all. I had to let cool the engine down for 3 hours. then it immediately fired again without any trouble. there is a assumption in the room that this comes from the wrong gear rim which is still plugged in the car. they dont changed it with the engine swap to 5.7 l which the car has now. consolidation changes when engine is cold and hot. is there any provisional solution for this? regards

 

Yes, Was to help keep water out....

 

Check to see if it is Loosing Spark or Loosing Fuel delivery????

 

timing was set at 16 degrees BTDC. we lowered the timing to 10 degrees BTDC. warm starting issue better but not gone now. sometimes the engine also when warm starts normal a few times, like 3 times good, 1 time hard and then good again.

 

Long crank With no Start?
or
Long Crank and then it starts?

 

starter turns slowly over sometimes at the beginning and goes fast after 3 to 4 spins when engine warm, but this is also not every time. its like 3 times starter fast with immediately firing engine, 1 time slow spin change to then fast with firing, the fifth, sixth and seventh try good fast spin again, eight, ninth try again like the 4 th slow spin and so on. Everything ok when engine is cold.

 

its a 350 engine with 305 starter and flywheel/flexplate. maybe this is the problem

 

Sound like you could be correct, I Would Guess its the starter getting heat soaked or the battery cable has a connection issue or is too small in size?

 

hight torque starter can solve the problem? change to welding cable needed? regards