I didnt no where else to put this post so i just stuck it here. So, I acquired this 1976 D200 with a 360 in it. The previous owner put on the folowing adds. A midrise intake manifold, an off brand AVS 1406 carb. and a (what looks like) GM HEI distributor. The oil gage on the dash was not working. Went to go check the oil sending unit and no hole. So, I'm asking all of you how to get rid of the JB Weld (or what ever is in there) or can sombody tell me if there is another place to hook up a sending unit for the oil.

 

I cant tell from the pic but there should be another plug next to it. My 383 has two plugs both going to the camshaft. .

 

Yes you are correct. I believe that all the big blocks have 2 holes and the small blacks have 1. I have never seen this done. Why?????

 

Not really another better place.... My suggestion..... Remove the J.B. Weld.... Clear out the oil sender hole.... The hole is a 1/8"NPT....
What i do in these cases, is install a 45* brass or steel fitting with a longer nipple and a connector for the sending unit and put it back near the firewall near the valve cover.
Hope that makes sense?
Cheers

 

hey cowboy thanks for the NPT size will save me alot of time. took off the JB Weld and found a broken tap inside the hole. Thinking that they broke off the sending unit and then tryed to drill out the remains, screwed up the hole ,tryed to retap than broke off the tap and didnt want to deal with it and filled it with jb weld.Going to go clean it out the best I can and figure out the next step

 

Amazing what some people do in a pinch. The JB weld guy I'm sure isn't proud of his work, and he shouldn't be.

 

Oh Boy what fun..... Sheesh......
Well, Depending on how the threads look when you get it all cleared out???? and how thin the outer wall becomes? Looks like you mite have 3 choices, Depending!!
1- Heli-A-Coil
2- Time Cert
3- Some type of Nut Cert.... lol >>>>> OK, Weld it up and remachine it.... Cheers

Keep us posted...

 

OK Mr Hogan here is my idea. First there are no threads go figure. So my idea is to take the mechanical oil brass fitting and use JB Weld or some other good epoxy and ever so slightly put enough around the threads on the brass fiting to fit it in the hole without plugging up the hole in the brass fitting. Will let that dry then finish off with a nice coat of the epoxy on and around the brass fitting. What do you think??? The engine is still in the truck. My thinking is that the truck was running and not leaking from there so lets just put a brass fitting in there instead of just a plug.....

 

Self tapping pipe cranked into the hole is one way. You could find plumbers piping that is tapered.
Another way is tapping the hole out.
Use a suction or vacuum to suck up any shavings in the hole if you tap it out.
I'm not big on glues and epoxies on engine assembly. Just saying

 

I think that the epoxy repair will be short lived and more than likely let you down at the worst time.... That would be my luck at any rate.... I think this would be the minimum to solve the issue.... >>>>>> https://www.industrialhardware.com/1...ngle-size.html
But if you go that route (epoxy), please share with us if it worked for you or not....

 

For some reason, "more than likely me not knowing better" I stayed away from Heli coils. That kit RacerHog posted certainly looks like a good alternative. This old dog learned a new trick

 

LOL.... There is always a " Rite way / Wrong Way / and the get you by way..... Cheers

 

The right way the wrong way or my way…lol

 

That last one really fits !!!!

 

Hi all, thanks everybody for all the advice. I went the old standard route and drilled it, taped it. Put the brass fitting in with some good ol Permatex and POOF no leak and the oil guage works perfect

 

Good Job..... Fixed rite the first time !!!! Cheers