Red Devil

In a little over 6 months I'll turn 18. I'm starting to look now for a decent a-body to buy and it seems like I will at best only be able to afford a decent slant 6 demon. This is fine with me because as long as it's #s matching I could have plenty of fun rebuilding a slanty car. I've also entertained the idea of buying a car and saving the original block and buying a different slant 6 to see what kind of power I can crank out of it. My question is about the differences between a slant 6 demon and a v8 demon. I know that if it has an auto tranny it will most likely be a 904. Also theres the obvious differences like different front suspension, k member, radiator/core support, etc... I was wondering though what rear ends slant 6 cars commonly had and what gears they normally came with? Most of the online ads I've looked at either don't say what rear or the seller don't know. Also, what other major differences would there be that I would need to know about? Thanks y'all

Crazy4Carz.Com

If it is a slant 6 who cares if it is numbers??? The car will never be a collectible worthy of concern about numbers matching. find a car you like and build it the way you want it. My Dart was a rust free numbers matching car and I cut it up, chucked the engine and trans and it is worth more now than it ever would have been as a slant six car. Forget the numbers and enjoy your car.

Red Devil

well I don't mean to be a dick, but I CARE ABOUT #S MATCHING! I dont give a rats a$$ if its ever going to be collectible. 1 of the things I personally find appealing in old cars is #s matching. I don't care what it'll ever be worth. To me it would be worth the most fully restored to the way it came off the factory line. I like #s matching original cars, thats what matter the most to me. Don't get me wrong, I love your Dart, I think its an awesome car and it was a very cool build and I wish I had time and money and the desire to do something similar. But given the choice between yor dart and a #s matching slant 6 Demon, I'd take the Demon. Its just what I like. You say I should enjoy whatever car I buy someday, but part of enjoying a car for me is keeping it numbers matching, or at least keeping the potential to return it to #s matching. And once again, at this point in my life I can't afford a 318 or 340 without the car being a total basket case, which I can't tackle right now. Ok, off rant
Can anyone help me with my original question(s)?

Crazy4Carz.Com

Whoa, Easy there buddy, I didn't mean to get your panties in a bunch.

The biggest reason most people have for numbers matching is ultimately the vehicles best value. This was actually started by the Corvette crowd. I have been in the car hobby for 30 plus years and have watched this "Numbers matching thing" get bigger and bigger and it has primarily been for correctness of collector cars, NOT the originality of driver quality cars.

If you want your car to be numbers matching, great! go for it. but most car enthusiasts are interested in performance enhancements (acceleration, braking, handling, sound, etc) I thought that you would be interested in the same so I merely suggested, to go for these things and enjoy the car and not worry about the date code on the wheel cylinders and forget about the correctness of the date codes on the exhaust manifolds, go ahead and change to a better flowing intake and not worry about the casting numbers. That is all. If you want these things to be correct that is fine. I encourage that strongly, but not many car guys are willing to drive around the cruise nights with a underpowered car that handles poorly just to be original.

There will be future car guys that may appreciate the fact that your car has been unmolested, that is awesome!

I just figured that since the last post I answered for you was the 2 bolt to 4 bolt question you were performance minded. I STAND CORRECTED. MY APOLOGIES. Please forget my advice on modifications, leave the 9 inch drums that come stock on a slant six car, who cares if it stops, it will barely accelerate anyway. Your very own post asks:

You understand that makes it NON NUMBERS right?

Also you stated:

These are comments from someone looking to possibly change parts. You do understand "Numbers matching" right?

I simply suggested that you might forget the numbers matching thing and go ahead and do the engine swap you are asking about and enjoy the car the way you want.

I honestly appreciate guys that keep them unmolested. That is what my car was and it made it easier for me that it wasn't all "fooled around with".

Enjoy!

Red Devil

I didn't mean to rub you the wrong way, I'm just getting really sick of everyone I talk to telling me that I need to change my opinions. I asked the 4 bolt question becasue I was curious more than anything. And if you read I did say I was thinking of building a motor for a slant 6 car but I also said I was going to keep the #s matching block. I wanted to know the differences between the two cars becasue all you every read about are the v8 cars and theres nothing to be found about the slant 6s so I have no idea what major differences I'm looking at here, I was just trying to get educated on these cars before I seriously consider spending money on one. Believe me, if I had the money and resources I'd look for a Demon 340 and restore it, but unfortunately that aint gonna happen anytime soon. I guess its kind of like this: I know what I want but I can't afford it, so I'm looking into the next best thing

67 GTX

slant six has a very weak rear
i think it is a 7 1/4, usually with a 3.23 rear, but it was optional i think

Red Devil

Well ok, I only really care because if I buy a slanty car I mentioned I might want to keep all the #s matching parts and possibly build a different slant 6 for it, in which case I guess I'd need a different rear end then huh?

deadkelly

well yes & know . it all depends on how you treat it . if your like me & every red to green light is like being at the strip you may want to up grade , to a 8 1/4 inch diff I'm sure you can make them quite strong & parts are available . ( in Australia our Chrysler's all had Borg warner 9 bolt diffs they are cheap & light & strong . & they all will bolt straight into a
A body ) i think going to a 8 3/4 is to much weight & will sap hp from your puny 225 slant . mate if you did some reading on the inter net & wanted to be unique you could use one of our hemi 6 cylinders & make easy 300 hp + on pump gas quite cheap . & it's made as a drop in replacement for a slant , they dropped the slant in 1969 & from 70 on wards they all had hemi sixes . i have 5 spare blocks here you could have one . but i know it's a scary thought but hey look at our never heard of Danny green ko'n' ol Roy Jones Jr the other night , you could whoop up small block & stock big block boys & run low 14's - mid 13's with a more fuel efficient 6 that no body has heard of & has hemi written on the side of the block . now thats a cheap hemi . then upgrade to a v8 later down the track . & with the inter net it's just like shopping on line but waiting a little bit longer for the parts to arrive no different to us V8 mopar boys over here . just a little twist . on things .

mr340

Slant Demons all had 904 trans and 7.25 rear with 2.76 or 3.23 gears. the only front suspension differences are the torsion bars and the K-frame. the core support is not different. you can swap in a small block pretty painlessly, or you can build the snot out of a /6. There is a guy out there that drag races all /6 cars and he's got them running in the 9 second range, so the potential is there to make a killer motor with 6 slugs. As with anything , it all comes down to "How fast can you afford to go?"

Red Devil

thanks y'all. I guess as long as I still have the capability to return the car to #s matching I'd be willing to build it a little for the stoplight drags. I'll start looking into it more as I get closer to buying one.

67 GTX

keep us posted

Red Devil

ok, I'll let you know in 6 months, lol

78D200

Just keep in mind that if/when you build up any motor, you'll want to build up the tranny, rear axle, suspension, etc. as well. There is no point in having a well built motor if there is no other component that can handle the power and help to get it to the ground. Just an FYI.

Crazy4Carz.Com

I don't get it. You are willing to pull the slant six, build a better powerplant, swap the trans, and replace the rear. (you have to do the rear and trans or they will break anyway) Then you are planning on putting all the **** parts back in? Why? Everyone including you, want the better parts. What is the big deal on numbers? I do understand originality, I do Honest! but in this case it makes no sense.

I'm not screwing with you, just peacefully explain it to me.

78D200

Maybe I missed it but do you think that you will ever sell the car? Is that why you are saving the stuff that you're pulling out?

deadkelly

just a bit of trivia for ya red devil http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKdcX6ZIXV4 .

johnthegoalie

save the numbers matching for the mid-life crisis 60 year old satin jacket wearing corvette owners...

Mr.Duster

i would have to agree with crazy. like my duster is a numbers matching 340 duster twister i plan on one day getting rid of the 340(putting it aside) and putting in a 440. The drums are def. coming off mine lol still have it numbers matching just take more work to turn it back too it if ever need be just save the parts. About getting one for the price u want i waited since i was 12 yrs old there were lots of deals around and had to pass them up. I wouldnt bother with building up the slant six will take more money then a v8 like 318.

Mr.Duster

The only way i see about hacking up an old car is if they lower the thing like a low rider put those stupid goofy rims on it and make it like a ricer(just turns my stomach).