I have a 74 318 and when i start the car it fires up and then the starter keeps going and make this awful noise. Its like its sticking or something???? What can i do???? Also she was running great for 150 miles and then now it just suddenly started to konk out. Is this because the tank and lines are full of crap or just because im pretty much out of gas???


1 last thing. So I just had my 318 302 casting heads done and my machine shop guy who builds professional race engines and really knows his stuff said that i should plug the crossover port on my performer intake. On here alot of people told me to keep it open to keep the fuel in suspension. I only drive it in weather from 60-85 degrees. It has a eddy 650 carb with headers. Thanks

 

My first guess would be the starter solenoid contacts have welded them self together

 

I have seen wires on the starter solenoid touch each other and keep it on.

 

Have you checked the key is returning on the column? i had this problem before turned out the barrel lock on the column was worn out or a spring . i'm not exactly sure but defiantly that area. i just turned the key back a little when i started it

 

I can take the key completly out and it will still go for a bit. I have to start the engine and rev it to shut it off

 

Sound like the solenoid it getting stuck out then. I would replace the starter.

 

1---CHECK the two wires going down to the starter. If you have the factory original wiring, the starter cable and solenoid wire go down "together" to a molded "connector" with the two wire ends.

This harness, if damaged by either engine heat (exhaust) or even sometimes by engine vibration in the mounts, can become SHORTED together intermittently.

Remove the harness and inspect.

2---The STARTER RELAY could be sticking. Try tapping with a screwdriver handle, or get a nutdriver handy so you can pull the solenoid wire going down to the starter.

3-- You can eliminate the

ignition switch
wiring to the relay
the relay itself

by temporarily NOT using the key----start the car by using a screwdriver to jumper the two large terminals of the relay. If the starter does not "stick" in several starts, the trouble is probably the relay or the wiring "before" the switch

If the starter still "sticks" using the above procedure, then it's the harness to the starter or the starter itself.

 

What do you guys recommend for new starters? Ive heard that the used mini starters of 90s dodges are a good cheap alternative, anyone ever done this?

 

Dodge Dakota starter.

 

are they direct replacement or do i have to do some mods?

 

If your starter cable has a molded end then you may have to cut the two wires apart.

 

What years dakota starters are the best?

 

Just pick a 1993. 100.00 bucks at O'Rielly's.

 

Okay so the starter hasnt stuck for the last 20 or so starts, i think i knocked whatever was sticking loose. But im wondering if i should still switch. The starter im using right now has that weird gear reduction think and ill turn the key and it will sound like its gonna fire then it will just spin out (not engaged) this only happens once or twice then it fires up but will using a 93 mini starter fix this problem? Thanks!

 

Okay... major design flaw... regardless of company design name... electrical components placed in a splash zone exposed to high heat...

The fix.... disconnect battery!.... Link the starter solenoid together with a #8 wire, and remove the key start wire. Install a REMOTE solenoid (Ford starter type) to anywhere near and high and dry. Run a batt cable from the second large lug to the large (now jumped) lug on the bad solenoid. Take batt cable and attach to first large lug on new solenoid. Put the key wire on the "s" small post. Reconnect battery... you are done.

 

Well the starter problem is well covered... I personally would block off the exhaust cross over it will give you a little cold driveability but keep a major amount of heat out of the intake and makes it run better. giving you better atomazation of fuel. Cold fuel and air into a hot combustion chamber.. Alot of performance intakes dont even have cross overs. But thats just my 2 cents... Bill

 

!!!REALLY!!!???? "Major" design flaw?

Ya know, I just can't remember the last time I rolled, let's say, into a parking lot full of Mopars and heard 2 or 5 or 20 starters cranking away, with frantic owners trying to get the hoods open to get the starters to stop.

Nobody, here, seems to be completely sure of what the cause of this might be. MIght even be a wiring fault. Might be a starter failure.

 

Hey F-tard (440Roady) ... "regardless of company design name"... yes... it is not the best thought through design from an engineering point of view. (be it Mopar/IH/Ford/Chevy/other) My reply was solid and a solution. But don't hold your breath on getting more help if THAT is your way of saying thanks.

A quick google search indicates that there are no less than 644,000 others that thought starter SOLENOIDS were at issue too... just saying.

(https://www.google.com/search?q=bad+...hrome&ie=UTF-8)

 

OK I have rebuilt probably 100 or better of these starters over the years and TVLynn hit the nail right on the head. Inside the solinoid is a copper washer that acts as a contact, it is pulled into the 2 studs (just like jumping the 2 terminals together with a screwdriver) with an electromagnet when the key is turned. It is a very simple fix IF you can find a dealer/parts store where you can buy the pieces needed. I have in the passed flipped the washer over to other side cleaned up the studs, and been fine. But as previously stated 93 Dakota v8 is the small starter and makes for a better fix with headers. On my 360 Duster I can now remove the starter without removing any other components. Header, Steering linkage, Etc.. So ole buddy of mine that is the route to take. I think it was about 50 bucks re-man price. 100 bucks new. Bill