Alright i am in the Air force and im stationed at whiteman AFB. I have a 1999 Dodge Dakota 4x4, I blew up the original engine (5.2L) about 2 years ago. Since iv had the truck iv wanted a bigger engine in it with bigger tires, so i took it as an opportunity to build my dream truck. So i sold my dirtbike and picked up a 1974 440 out of some motor home, then begin the project. I took it apart and sent it to the machine shop ect. ect. (This is getting to be a longer post than what i thought) Anyway heads where cracked so i went to edelbrock and got the PERFORMER RPM PACKAGE, to the point its got kieth black flat top pistons 10:1 compression, oh and its bored .30 over. it has an edelbrock performer 750 carb. I am working on building motor mounts to make it fit.

Now for the rest of the truck i got a 1999 dodge diesel nv4500 5 speed tranny,getting a dana 300 t-case, i plan on getting dana 60 8lug front and rear axles for it. Also i want to do a 4 link suspension with coil over shocks all the way around. Im sure im forgetting something. Anyway thats what i can think of right now.

Any comments, question, or tips appreciated.

 

GREAT COMBO! 440RB with an NV4500! Which version of the NV4500 did you get?

Depending on the HP and torque from the motor, it may be a bit much for the D300. I'd save up for an Atlas or a Stak as a replacement though. Are you keeping it passenger side drop or flipping it to the driver's side? If you leave it passenger side, any GMD60 will work. If you go with a Dodge, make sure that it has the internal style hubs. There is a larger aftermarket support for it. If you decide to flip the D300 (go with a cable shift kit from NWF - VERY nice), you'll want to get a pre 91 or 92 (I believe) as the later ones have ball joints. The earlier ones are all kingpin, plus you'll have a high pinion which will be driving on the stronger side of the ring gear.

For the rear look into getting a Corp 14B out of a 1 ton. The 14B has the pinion support and the drop in pinion (both are nice). plus the 1 ton version has thicker tubes than the 3/4 ton version.

It looks like a great build though. I can't wait to see more.

 

Not sure what you mean by which version, it a remaned 99 dodge diesel 5 speed

Also not sure which side im going have the t-case come out yet ( i don't have one yet), I still haven't figured out if im mounting the engine right or not

thanks for all the info though, bc im not always sure what im doin.

 

Dodge and GM both used this tranny and both offered to different gearing. Gearing for the two different versions is as follows:
6.34, 3.44, 1.71, 1, 0.73, R 6.34
5.61, 3.04, 1.67, 1, 0.74, R 5.61

Either is great for wheeling but the one with the 6.34:1 1st gear ratio is better for crawling. Also, you'll have to really think about tire size and axle ratio to make sure that everything works how you want it to.

Novak has an adaptor for the GM version of the NV4500 to a D300. the GM version is 32 spline with a round, 6 hole bolt pattern. To adapt the Dodge version to the D300 may require a main shaft swap.

 

Just wandering, if i get the 300. what do you think (if you know) it would cost to do a complete over haul of it and make it stronger just enough to handle what i might put it through

also on a different subject im haveing problems with the fit in the engine bay. the steering wheel shaft doesnt fit between the fram and engine, also i think im goin to have to get rid of the brake master cylinder and not sure what to do about either one.

 

I would leave the 2.62:1 low range gears in the D300 but I would upgrade to 32 spline outputs front/rear. JB Conversion has a kit for both and put out a good product.

As far as the steering shaft not clearing, you can always fab up a mount so that the box either sits out further forward (would also allow you to push your front axle more forward causing better approach angles and a better CFG) or mount it on the outside of the frame (need to watch for tire rub at full stuff. You can also build a couple of shafts, 1st pointing down early on, 2nd running along the frame rail, 3d connecting to the steering box.

Another option is (if this vehicle will never see the street) you can go with a full hydro steering setup. This will allow you to turn the larger tires much easier. Also, if you are planning on doing a 4-link up front, you don't have to worry about drag link angles and bind.

 

So its not good to use a full hydro set up when your goin to use it on the street

 

Its not that it's not good, it's that in most states in illegal. Check your state laws regarding it. If it is legal, then that would help solve the steering issue.

 

I've read that there is little feedback through the hydro steering, and it doesn't return to center after a turn. I would use it anyway.

 

I want to use full hydro i just dont know how it will handle on the highway. Also when i go to weld the motor mounts on is there any rules i dont know about, like certain angles im supposed to mount it or anything

 

You want it as level side to side as possible. Front to back is not that big of a deal as you'll need some angle to help keep the driveline from vibrating.

As far as hydro steer on the highway, I wouldn't. Depending on the lift laws of your state and the states you plan on wheeling in, tire size and how far out of the wheelwells the tires will stick, this truck will probably not be road legal.

What size and style tires are you planning on running?

 

38.5x16 super swamper boggers, Also i dont plan on setting the truck extremely high. i want it as low as possible without the tire rubbing so its not to top heavy.

 

If you are running boggers, don't even plan on running it on the road. Trailer the truck everywhere and install hydro steer.

I've never seen a bogger come off the line that is truely round. They ride like **** on teh road. You can have them trued up but you're talking about removing at least 25% of the tread if not more. Just to run them down the road? Not worth it IMO. If you want to run the truck on the road, get a more streetable tire.

 

yea, i was hoping to maybe be able to drive it on the weekends cruisin through town or something, or at least drive it to where ever im goin to go wheelin as long as its not that far

 

If you click on this link this is pretty much what i would like to do, for the type of suspension im not sure bout the dana44 though.

http://thurenfabrication.com/arthursrig.html

 

You'll want to go with a draglink style steering system them. You can get a hydro assist for it though.

That is a cool looking Dakota. There is no reason to do a 5 link though when a well planned out double trianglure, 4 link will take care of the side to side motion and provide as much if not more flex.

 

Sweet truck.....

 

Sorry to bump an old thread but I'm in the process of doing this swap my self. I'm hung up on the clutch fork and throw out bearing setup. My truck is currently automatic. I'd like to see what setup your running.

Thanks

 

The thing about draging up an old post for answers is member's come and go. If you click on the original poster's information it will tell you how long its been sence he was on the forum.
for best results start a new post with your question.
In your case I would look into a hydraulic throwout bearing and master cylinder for your clutch.
Back in the early 90s I thought about a 440 Dakota 2wd.
Good luck and put up some pictures of your project.