nguyek01

I have. 1962 Chrysler Newport it has the 361 with the push button tranny. I have never really messed with mopar stuff before. I would like to get some extra power is the 361 worth beefing up if so anyone know what I should change to it or is it better to do a motor swap I would like to keep the factory ac so if a motor swap is the option what blocks would bolt up to original stuff any help on this would be greatly appreciated also the rear end is there any changing I should do to that as well just would like more get up on it thank you

Coronet 500

Welcome.

You have a 9 to 1 compression engine, with the larger valves I believe.

The obvious would be a modern 383/400 aluminum 4 barrel intake manifold and spread bore carb.

A modern camshaft would help too, making sure cylinder heads and valves are in top shape.

A distributor tuning or upgrade with dual exhaust will make a strong engine.

RacerHog

I agree !!!!!!!!
My only other suggestion would be to save all the old parts in case of a restore at a later date....

nguyek01

Thank you and with the 383 or 400 will my ac compressor bolt up to it? That's the main thing I would like to keep especially living in tx with summer lol. If not how could I need up the 361 in it

nguyek01

Sorry not familiar with mopar but is that a 383 mopar or chevy

RacerHog

Ouch....... lol
Big Block Chrysler....

70newport

I would check with the guys at 440source.com and see if they have any insight as to if your factory ac will "bolt up" or what you would need. im sure you could make stuff work just might need to do new lines or something.

I would also look at new rear gear ratio. a lot of c bodys ( all 3 I own) cme with factory 2.73 gears. I went to 3.23's with and Auburn LSD recently and found it made things a little more fun.

TVLynn

62 Newport probably weighs 6K lbs. Not going to be a rocket ship.. Start with a good
2 1/2" dual exhaust a good 4 bbl intake & a good reconditioned AVS carb - if you can find one. A mild cam 3.23 rear gear. Update to later axles without the big retaining nut

moe7404

6 K ? my 300 L was an actual checked 4,200 LBS. the 62 newport is a lot like my 300 L.

440roadrunner

This is a Mopar (Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth) forum. Chevy never made a 383 ever. So far as I know, neither did AMC, Ford, or GM in their entire line

Please write this 100 times:

"Chevy does not make 383 engines regardless of what Al Gore puts on the internet"

demetri

Yes, this Chrysler should be under 4500 lbs.


A later 383 with the 906 heads will be a great engine for this little car (its all relative ). The 3.23 or the 2.76 that may be on there is a matter of preference. The 3.23 will give you better 1/4 mile time (or 0-25 mph acceleration), the taller gear will give you better high speed performance (not only in terms of top speed, but also in terms of confidence to cruise at higher speeds on the freeway) and will also allow you to retain the low gear at higher speeds for passing.


I think the chevy 383 that our fellow is suggesting is the bastardized small block chevy with a longer stroke. These approaches are severe compromises, as they reduce the con-rod to stroke ratio. The Chrysler 383 is really a far better engine as it enjoys very favorable bore to stroke ratio, and a very good connecting rod length. On top of that, you have the superior Chrysler valve train, etc etc.

440roadrunner

I'm going to say "depends."

Depends on a LOT of things

1.....What shape is the engine in now? Has it ever been touched? If you start running it hard with a bigger cam, etc, you might start leaks you never knew could leak, not the least of which is valve seals

2......Parts, that is, things like pistons, are going to be difficult and expensive. If you want long engine life, impressive HP gains, and easier parts avalability, find yourself a later model 383, or 400 or even 440.

3......Do lots of research before you jump. "Just like Chevy" many of Mopar engines, have CHANGES in production, and which MATTERS in terms of cast vs forged cranks, and ENGINE BALANCE.

With an automatic, Chrysler did not weight an "external balance engine" the way Chev did. Chev would have used a flex plate with weights. Chrysler, instead, weighted the torque converter. What this means is, if buying a used TC, you must be aware.

Some engine combinations can be properly weighted by buying a B&M weighted flex plate, which removes the converter problem. You either remove the weights from the TC, or use a "neutral" balance converter. A popular example of this is when putting a 360 LA into a 318 car, which has a neutral converter, but the 360 needs weights

A good example in the Mopar engines was my old 70 440sixpack. The 69 1/2 sixpack cars had a forged crank 440 which was internally balanced. But my 70 used heavier rods, and was EXTERNAL balanced. It was a 4 speed car, so the flywheel and balancer was DIFFERENT from a 69 car. There were actually other differences, but that is a major one.

Some engines used cast cranks, some used forged. Do your research

4.....Basically there is one major difference in Mopar B / RB engines. "B" engines are the short stroke "low deck" series..........361-383-400

(To confuse the issue, there was once a 350, early, you will never see one, and a RB (raised block) 383, but these are pretty rare, not many made)

The long stroke "raised block" (RB) series is 423, 426 (wedge, not hemi) and 440

WHAT IS the difference? Different crank, pistons and rods. Longer pushrods. Longer ignition distributor. and, the INTAKE MANIFOLD is wider

This means looking for used parts, you need to MAKE SURE that such things as a distributor or intake is for your 361 (or 383-400) and NOT the RB series

5....Repeat......Do some research.....buy some books. Google. Here

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/b-engines.html

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/383.html

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpb-hp1190

TVLynn

later 906 open chamber heads will lower the compression, 62 may have a different rocker arm assembly