71 Cuda won't move!

Old May 31, 2010 | 11:14 AM
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71 Cuda won't move!

Ok, so I have a 71 cuda I am restoring. Got the engine and trans back in and it won't move forward or back. I figured out through other threads that I didn't seat the torque converter properly and might have broke the pump. My question is if I separate the engine and trans a half inch or so can I still try to align it? There are no leaks from the bellhousing. I don't know if there is much hope since the trans and engine were together and the car ran for a while. If I need to replace it, it doesn't seem to hard, anyone ever had this problem? I hate to pull the trans back out if I don't have to. Thanks
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Old May 31, 2010 | 02:57 PM
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From: couer d' alene id.
if you didnt break anything you should be fine by trying to seat it in the way you describing. seems like a pain to do it that way. also it would seem to me if the converter didnt drop all the way in. you would have to force the tranny to the block if it wasnt seated.. probly be easier to take out the tranny and inspect everything to make sure everything is allrite. take time now to be sure, then totally ruining somthing.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 04:17 PM
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yes just what Bob said about not seated it wont bolt up easy, stupid question but you did bolt the converter to the flex plate and topped up the fliud right? hard to fix cars on the phone so better to ask then quess
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Old May 31, 2010 | 04:52 PM
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Yeah, I remember it being hard to get together and It was binding, I just thought the alignment pins were holding it because it was still 1/4 inch away, from what I remember it wasn't like the converter was too far out and not allowing them to come together but then it finally gave and went in. However I did have the converter off the trans and didn't take the time to hear the 3 clicks so I know that's probably the problem. I had the same tranny in it before restoration without a problem. It does have only headers so you did have to give it gas to move, I thought that was the problem initially and the fact that I drained the converter. The tires will rotate in gear if it's up in the air, but on the ground it won't move. How could I check to see if it's bad when it's out? Thanks for the response
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Old May 31, 2010 | 04:55 PM
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Yes, wish it was that simple, but I did attach the converter to the flex plate and fill with fluid, the level doesn't seem to change no matter what gear I'm in. That's probably also pointing to the pump right?
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Old May 31, 2010 | 05:05 PM
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ok cool converter was bolted, how much fluid have you put in so far? takes 4 or 5 to just fill the pan and a few more after that to fill the whole system, it really sounds like not enough fluid to make it move with the load of the car on the ground - I've seen trannys take 10 or 12 when they were next to dry, just a thought going on you saying the level wont move - you are checking it warmed up and running right?
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Old May 31, 2010 | 05:37 PM
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I added a deep pan so I initially added 8 quarts and then another 2. Checked idling hot in neutral. It read full at 8 quarts and I knew it would take alot more so I added 2 more now it's reading overfull at 10 quarts
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Old May 31, 2010 | 05:53 PM
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Am I wrong in thinking it's the trans that needs to be hot when checking the fluid? Which would be hard to do if you have not been able to run it.

Just thinking out loud.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Barfly
Am I wrong in thinking it's the trans that needs to be hot when checking the fluid? Which would be hard to do if you have not been able to run it.

Just thinking out loud.
Sounds like it runs to me, just doesn't want to move.


Got the linkage hooked up?

Was the transmission rebuilt?

If the converter wasn't set onto the input shaft correctly, you wouldn't have been able to mate the bell housing to the back of the block
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Old May 31, 2010 | 06:51 PM
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A simple check to see if the pump in tranny is working. Be carefull because this could be messy but with the car not running disconnect a cooler line at the radiator and hold over a bucket. Hold the bucket under the connection point at the radiator also unless you know the direction of flow. Start the car and if the pump is working you will be filling that bucket from either the line or the exit port at the radiator. I suspect nothing will happen this will just confirm that there is no pump action.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 07:02 PM
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Yes, the engine runs so it does get to operating temp. I watched underneath as someone when through the gears and thats fine. The trans wasn't rebuilt just taken out new fluid/ filter and deep pan installed. Sweeperking, I was thinking that also, I'll try when I get the chance. Thanks everyone.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 07:42 PM
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I know this is dumb, but if you put the car in neutral, can you roll it? I am just thinking is it possible the brakes are hung up? If the car will roll in neutral, then I would guess it is a pump issue or something blocking the flow of fluid inside the trans. You mentioned putting on a deep pan, is the fluid pick up long enough to get to the fluid in a deeper pan? I am no expert, just suggestions. Good luck!
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Old May 31, 2010 | 07:45 PM
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One more thing....with the deep pan, is the calibration on the dip stick still correct? You may be getting a false reading with the original dip stick and a deep pan.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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From: couer d' alene id.
Originally Posted by 67gtxclone
One more thing....with the deep pan, is the calibration on the dip stick still correct? You may be getting a false reading with the original dip stick and a deep pan.
the dipstick will still read correct.. he just added a deeper pan to hold more oil...if it was a shallower (if thats a word?) then the dipstick would be read wrong.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 10:02 PM
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lol ok looks like everyone was reading my mind with possables ..... can't think of what else except for what has been said, it's not like a 4500 stall is it?
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Old May 31, 2010 | 11:01 PM
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From: couer d' alene id.
even if it had a very high stall it will still move at an idle.. but i think you are on the right track..the trans brake is on!
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 03:33 AM
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I used a poor choice of words when I said "it won't run".

What I meant to ask was if the transmission won't engage and move the car down the road, does the transmission fluid still come up to temperature?
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Barfly
I used a poor choice of words when I said "it won't run".

What I meant to ask was if the transmission won't engage and move the car down the road, does the transmission fluid still come up to temperature?
The answer is probably not assuming the pump in the tranny isnt circulating any fluid. Even if the pump is slightly circulating, unless the transmission is under load it still will never reach operating temperature.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 07:54 AM
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Yes thats true Bob it should still move & Sweeperking is so right with that, almost seem like the pump is not working - Barfly did you do what sweeper said and check for pressure in the cooler line? that would kind of narrow it down a bit ...... Trans brake Bob I love it lol!!!
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 01:33 PM
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Yes the car rolls fine, and I have the the block that extends the pickup into the pan. It is a stock converter. I'm going out to work on it now and see what happens when I take off the trans line. Thanks for your continued help
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 09:15 PM
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Just make sure you keep that fluid away from the paint... and your face.
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 05:58 PM
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Disconnected the line and sure enough, just a drip when I put it in gear
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 07:17 PM
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The best thing you can do is give it to someone else to worry about like me
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 07:26 PM
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Well at least you know what to do now.

Hey, just remember part of whole picture is the work we put into our beloved cars.
When you get that tranny pump replaced and your telling stories at the local show, track or supermarket you got a good one.

Don't forget to update us on that nasty 71 Cuda'
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