fmontez1

Ok, I have the part # correct, but the distributor doesnt go all the way in. . . . How do you know if your oil pump drive shaft is all the way set?

My dist just doers NOT seat on the hole with the drive shaft in there. . . I have it in now without the OIL PUMP DRIVE SHAFT just to keep dust, etc out. . . but I cant figure out why the shaft wont go all the way in. . Im gonna have to pop the hood off and have a look in there, but it sure feels like the shaft drops right in.

hahah I said shaft.

Seriously though, any ideas? Am i doing it wrong?

TVLynn

It has to align up with both the cam gear and the oil pump. I would guess the oil pump shaft is not fitting all the way into the oil pump ??

440roadrunner

You know, "they" (the thems) say that there is "no such thing" as a "dumb question."

But this comes close. How about some more info?????

How about

what engine you have?

what have you done to it, is this a fresh build? (MAYBE the intermediate shaft bushing is not seated in the block)

or was this a running engine, and you decided to upgrade the distributor?

maybe there is a piece of malfeasance, IE small piece of dirt lodged in the drive socket for the oil pump, preventing the intermediate shaft from dropping in

Have you compared this new MSD (the part no of which you could have posted) have you compared it with say, maybe, a distributor that you KNOW (used to) fit,

Did this engine EVER go together correctly, IE do you know that the intermediate shaft is THE correct shaft?

I'm not intimately familiar with MSD is the part no. stamped into the housing? If not, could it be mis-boxed or somehow mis-labeled?

If the MSD uses a Mopar style O ring seal, did you lube it? Any chance the O ring is the wrong size?

fmontez1

Before you reply, know that I found the correct installation procedure in the manual, and have not tried that to the letter. So I need to go through that first.

as for your questions. . .

what engine you have?
what have you done to it, is this a fresh build? (MAYBE the intermediate shaft bushing is not seated in the block)

its a 318 thats been bored out a bit, I'm not sure, I inherited the engine, but it was built by a shop and I couldnt tell ya if it ever fired up or not.
Didnt come with a distributor. Just have the aftermarket kit (MSD) in the box, and looking at getting it all situated when I ran into this.

maybe there is a piece of malfeasance, IE small piece of dirt lodged in the drive socket for the oil pump, preventing the intermediate shaft from dropping in

Right, I havent had a chance to get the hood off and look in, but I'm pretty sure the engine was kept really clean. I unwrapped it and it looked well taken care of. Cant be sure till I have a look inside.

Have you compared this new MSD (the part no of which you could have posted) have you compared it with say, maybe, a distributor that you KNOW (used to) fit,

It didnt come with it. I dont have one.



Did this engine EVER go together correctly, IE do you know that the intermediate shaft is THE correct shaft?

Nope, dont know. Sorry.



I'm not intimately familiar with MSD is the part no. stamped into the housing? If not, could it be mis-boxed or somehow mis-labeled?
Could be a mislabel, but the bottom of the distributor looks exactly like the mopar distributor bottom. it also fits snugly enough to pull the oil pump drive shaft all the way out.




If the MSD uses a Mopar style O ring seal, did you lube it? Any chance the O ring is the wrong size?
O-ring, to mate the base of the distributor with the block? It doesnt go low enough for me to use an o ring yet.

unless I'm misunderstanding your question.




By the way, sorry for the stupid question. I'm new at this and don't go to forums or anything like this at all. I do however recognize the value of your information, so I do appreciate it. I've only been reading about/working on one engine for the last three weeks, so you might understand if I only have one thing on my mind.

440roadrunner

OK, I'm in a better mood this morning. Sorry to bite your head. But you understand, "we" are in the dark, just guessing.

You say you don't have a stock distributor. I'll try and remember later, to go measure the distributor flange -- to shaft length.

Sounds like the intake is on? You can still remove and inspect the intermediate shaft (distributor drive gear) -- just take a large screwdriver and turn the gear. The gear helix will "walk" the gear up and out of mesh with the camshaft. Then you can use something like a bent coathanger to hook under the gear and pull the shaft up and out.

Using a coathanger as a sort of probe and with a flashlight, you should be able to inspect the bushing in the block to see if it's fully seated. The bushing has a top flange which it seats against, as below

fmontez1

Thanks a lot, I'll take a look.

I've always used a piece of wire fishing leader, kind of snuck in through the distributor hole and wrapped around the head of the oil pump drive shaft to pull it out.

I would really, really appreciate that measurement on the distributor shaft itself. Would at least tell me if I have the right length part.

Don't worry about biting my head off man, to me working on cars is just like fishing. We all start with zero knowledge, and have to work our way up.

You worked me up one rug on that latter, with the "Know how to ask a question" comment. hahah

bremereric

You sure you have a small block distributor..If you have a big block one it won't work. The shaft is longer.

Small block is the first picture and Big block is the second.

fmontez1

judging from the distributor cap hold down setup, I'd say I do in fact have the small block dist.

thanks for the heads up.

The packaging does say its for a 318 chrysler also.

bremereric

I had an Offenhouser intake that would block the distributor from being inserted.
I had to grind some material off of it.
The distributor drive gear should rotate and become completly mated with the gear on the cam shaft...you can't just drop it in..you have to rotate it with a larger screw driver.

Coronet 500

It may be stuck on the hex, turn the crank by hand and it will drop the rest of the way. If you have the manual then you'll know about positioning of the slot.

Block flange to notch= 3.575". Total length= 3.86"-3.91", from a couple Ive got here.

fmontez1

Thanks for the info. I've printed this out and will try and get on top of this tonight.

Played a show with a band last night and was out till 3 am, so I might just take a peek and measure her up.

What size is the bolt on the main to turn the engine again? It's a 318 LA engine. I want to make sure I have the socket before I show up. I know I've had it in the past, but a couple of my tools have walked away over the years.

bremereric

Either 1 1/4" or 1 1/8" socket for the harmonic balancer bolt.

fmontez1

Another question. . .

Looking at the manual, on the section re installation of oil pump drive shaft. .. it says the following. . . "Install the shaft so that after it spirals into place, it will index with the oil pump shaft, so slot in top of drive gear will point to 1st intake manifold bolt on left side. ."

Ok, I understand that distributor should really point to cyl 1 when at tdc. . . . so this is telling me to point the notch in the Oil Pump drive shaft to that cylinder once its all the way in. . . . .


How much spiraling does the shaft do when installed properly ? I would have to crank the engine over till its approaching TDC, but then at which point do I drop the shaft in, and at what angle?

Sorry for my confusion, I think I understand it but it was awkwardly worded. WOuld it HAVE to point EXACTLY at cyl1 ? I thought as long as distr. is firing when its supposed to, it all good?


confused@!

bremereric

When you point the slot toward the first intake manifold bolt the rotor will be turned to number one cylinder. The notch and the rotor are at different degrees. The slot in the end of the distributor does not line up with the rotor. I always rotate the motor to top dead center. Drop the shaft in the hole and turn it with a large screwdriver. If the slot is pointing at centerline I turn it back out and spin it a bit and turn it back in till it points correctly. I probably confused you more.

fmontez1

well it sounds like what you're saying is to basically drop the shaft in at TDC, and basically trial and error it in and out till the notch that the distributor bottom fits in to (this is the notch you speak of, right?) is pointed at the front (as in closest to the grill) driver side intake bolt?

Again, all this help is tremendously appreciated. . . .

Coronet 500

You got it. I drop the drive in first then turn the engine to #1 TDC on the compression (firing) stroke and maybe get lucky. If not, like b says, big slot screwdriver CCW until it's there. If it dosn't drop in the pump a wiggle jiggle back and forth on the crank usually does it. The whole idea is to get the vacum canister on the distributor in a place so you can twist the distributor enough to time the engine. Because of some manifolds, linkages or other obstructions turning a tooth or two is not a big deal, as long as you get that rotor pointing at #1 plug wire.

fmontez1

Got it all the way seated, but the notch is at a right angle to the fender. . not pointing to #1 intake bolt

Tried spinning it back, eventually got it to ride up the cam gear but couldnt get it out for the life of me.

This baffles me, cause the the other day I got that thing out using a piece of wire, but tonight, I just got stuck.

Got fed up, the hood is still on so I was using a mirror and a flashlight and cranking my back all over the palce, so eventually I just gave up and came home. At least now I know how to get the distr. seated all the way. . . .

I know I can make it work by setting up the firing order correctly in the cap, but i want my rotor to point to #1 on TDC as it should be,.

Anyway. It turned over nice and smooth, it was good to hear her breathe again. Hadn't turned the motor over in a while.

Anyway, thanks guys!

I think i can handle it from here. . . if not I'll be sure to come crawling back !

440roadrunner

Unless you are concerned that it "looks" correct, it will run just fine as you have set it up. The only engine types that "matter' as to where the plug wires are, is some of the V6's (odd/ even fire) and some 4 cylinder I think industrial, never seen a car 4 banger that way---you can tell by looking at the dist. cap, on these type engines the wire towers are spaced in "pairs" -- two close together, and a wide space in between the next pair.

That problem does not exist on any inline 6 or V8

fmontez1

Sweet, that's what I figured. Im not too concerned as the distributor itself is nice and slim,. so there isnt anything to bump or a vacuum barrel to block anything.

Thanks for the heads up!