Strong battery, NO start, NO lights
09-09-2017, 08:09 AM
#1
Strong battery, NO start, NO lights
Full disclosure - auto electric is not something I'm very good at!
1968 Chrysler 300 w/440 and 37,000 original miles.
Drove the car a couple weeks ago to a car show. Came back in the dark and noticed the headlights were dim and getting dimmer as we got close to home.
Car got us home but there was zero battery to start it in the morning. Put a 2 amp trickle charge on it for 24+ hours and had it tested at AutoZone. Voltage was 12.68 and CCA was 756 (on a 750 CCA battery).
Put the battery back in the car. No start. Not even the typical clicking noise at the starter. Nothing. No headlights or brake lights either. Car is stone, cold dead.
Both ground straps at the engine are still connected. The original one at the firewall has never been removed.
I did replace the starter solenoid relay switch located on the inner left fender directly behind the battery but still nothing. I can crank the starter by crossing the relay switch with a screwdriver but the car still won’t start.
Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance!
1968 Chrysler 300 w/440 and 37,000 original miles.
Drove the car a couple weeks ago to a car show. Came back in the dark and noticed the headlights were dim and getting dimmer as we got close to home.
Car got us home but there was zero battery to start it in the morning. Put a 2 amp trickle charge on it for 24+ hours and had it tested at AutoZone. Voltage was 12.68 and CCA was 756 (on a 750 CCA battery).
Put the battery back in the car. No start. Not even the typical clicking noise at the starter. Nothing. No headlights or brake lights either. Car is stone, cold dead.
Both ground straps at the engine are still connected. The original one at the firewall has never been removed.
I did replace the starter solenoid relay switch located on the inner left fender directly behind the battery but still nothing. I can crank the starter by crossing the relay switch with a screwdriver but the car still won’t start.
Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance!
12-12-2017, 08:35 AM
#2
Mopar Fanatic
Full disclosure - auto electric is not something I'm very good at!
1968 Chrysler 300 w/440 and 37,000 original miles.
Drove the car a couple weeks ago to a car show. Came back in the dark and noticed the headlights were dim and getting dimmer as we got close to home.
Car got us home but there was zero battery to start it in the morning. Put a 2 amp trickle charge on it for 24+ hours and had it tested at AutoZone. Voltage was 12.68 and CCA was 756 (on a 750 CCA battery).
Put the battery back in the car. No start. Not even the typical clicking noise at the starter. Nothing. No headlights or brake lights either. Car is stone, cold dead.
Both ground straps at the engine are still connected. The original one at the firewall has never been removed.
I did replace the starter solenoid relay switch located on the inner left fender directly behind the battery but still nothing. I can crank the starter by crossing the relay switch with a screwdriver but the car still won’t start.
Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance!
1968 Chrysler 300 w/440 and 37,000 original miles.
Drove the car a couple weeks ago to a car show. Came back in the dark and noticed the headlights were dim and getting dimmer as we got close to home.
Car got us home but there was zero battery to start it in the morning. Put a 2 amp trickle charge on it for 24+ hours and had it tested at AutoZone. Voltage was 12.68 and CCA was 756 (on a 750 CCA battery).
Put the battery back in the car. No start. Not even the typical clicking noise at the starter. Nothing. No headlights or brake lights either. Car is stone, cold dead.
Both ground straps at the engine are still connected. The original one at the firewall has never been removed.
I did replace the starter solenoid relay switch located on the inner left fender directly behind the battery but still nothing. I can crank the starter by crossing the relay switch with a screwdriver but the car still won’t start.
Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance!
Not sure if this has been resolved or not but I would grab a multi meter and start going down the line, Im going to suggest to start at the bulkhead connector as they are known to melt, then report back. If that is working and you are getting voltage inside the car then this is going to become a hunt for "broken wires" inside the dash.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Nate Ryan
C-Body
5
08-21-2013 02:15 PM
1966charger
Interior/Exterior Body and Trim
0
04-22-2012 08:27 PM
