67SprtFuryConvt

Hello all,

I have a 1967 Plymouth Fury convertible that I've been working on restoring for about two years now. Originally a 318 car, the original engine was broken and needs rebuilding. In the car now, from the guy I bought it from, is a very weak and used 1978 318. I know that in order to get some real power I need to either rebuild the original engine or throw both small blocks in the trash and go find a 440 or 383. However, all of that takes money, and I'd like to see what I can get out of this old 318 without putting much money into it. One of the things that came to mind was something with the timing gears. in 1978, I know that they started putting the lean-burn system on 318s, and the engine would have already had pollution controls on it from 1975. Given that I'm not running any pollution controls or lean-burn, where should I be setting the timing of this engine? I've upgraded to electronic ignition already.
Also, would it help to get non-smog era upper and lower timing gears for it? I believe it has the original 1978s now. Again, not looking to spend much money, but to see what I can get out of it before having to rebuild.

Thanks a bunch!

440roadrunner

You have to realize that 68/ later timing specs were to meet SMOG requirements and NOT for performance or economy

One problem --we don't know what you have-- is that many late model smog distributors had a VERY long and VERY slow advance mechanism. The mechanical advance will be marked with a number, which indicates the amount of advance in DISTRIBUTOR degrees, which are 1/2 "crank degrees."

In the photo below, this 15* advance equates to a fairly long advance, IE 30 at the crank. This means that if the engine runs OK at 10* intitial, under full throttle (full power) which drops the vacuum out, the engine will be at 40* which MIGHT be OK, depending on engine heat, compression ratio, head and cam design, fuel being used, etc.



Above came from this website

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t.../photo_08.html

Sometimes you can buy an "advance spring kit" and play with different springs and luck out.

FIRST step is to see what you have

The right way to do this is to spend a Saturday and find out WHAT you have

First, make sure your timing marks are correct to start with. (The balancer ring may have slipped)

Buy or make a piston stop like this:

http://www.jerrybramlett.net/images/...stallation.jpg

Remove the no1 plug, make sure the piston is "down a ways" and remove the battery ground

Screw the stop in, (you may have to play with depth the first time around) and wrench the engine around until it stops against the device. You are NOT trying to stop the engine on TDC, but rather with the piston "down somewhat."

When the piston stops, make a temporary mark onto the balancer directly under the TDC mark on the timing tab. Now rotate the engine CCW, until it stops, and make a second mark.

You will now have two marks, some distance apart. True TDC will be 1/2 way between the temporary marks, and if your original mark is still accurate, that is where it will be.

Next, either degree the balancer, or buy the proper size "timing tape" or buy a timing light --a RELIABLE one-- with the "dial up" advance indicator.

To degree the balancer, you must take a small, flexible tape and measure AROUND the wheel to determine how many "degrees per inch" on your wheel, then measure and mark accordingly

NOW finally you are ready for a "trial run." I'd just START with 10* advance at an idle, no vacuum. Leave the vacuum OFF for these tests.

Now, if you are uncomfortable about blowing a belt or fan blade, (it happens!!) you can unhook the fan belt for a minute or three's running time, especially if the engine is only mildly warm.

KNOW where you started IE 10* initial, and rev the engine up to a high but safe RPM. You want to be SURE that you are seeing ALL of the mechanical advance "in". Watch your marks and not how far it goes.

What you are hoping for is somewhere around 34-40* total "all in." This figure, as I said earlier will vary

Also, wiggle the rotor, and look for "easy movement" of the advance mechanism against the springs, and that it moves freely and "springs back" when released. Otherwise, it could be gummed /rusted up

TVLynn

What type of carb ? Usually the lean burn came with a thermoquad most others had a 2bbl I would start with about 8 deg before and road test it. See if it pings If it does back it up to 5 degrees- the stock setting