318 for 360?

Old Jan 13, 2013 | 11:56 AM
  #1  
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318 for 360?

ok, so here is what i have, the stock 318 with the parts from my sig.

also i have a 360 from a 1978 truck. but it's not complete, i just have the block, crank, pistons, cylinder heads and valves/springs.

the 318 has some problems, it smokes 2 packs a day, well, i add a quart of oil a week or per 200ish miles.

i think i need valve seals and piston rings as it has 180k or 280k for all i know.

when i took the 360 apart i damage a piston so i was just going to use the heads, shave them along with the intake. and put in new rings into the 318.

any thoughts? i would appreciate your input and thanks.
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 12:10 PM
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here is an example of the smoke i get...



i should also add that i want to spend as little as i can...

Last edited by AMD5150; Jan 13, 2013 at 12:14 PM.
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 12:51 PM
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I would do a compression test on the 318 you have. If you have good compression in all the cylinders, then I would take the 360 heads and have them cleaned and rebuilt by an engine shop. Have them milled a little if you want to bump up the compression. This is what I would do but I'm sure that other members will chime in.

Good compression on the cylinders tells me that the valve seals are probably leaking oil into the combustion chamber. This is a very common problem on the 318 and 360 LA cylinder heads.

If you do not have good compression one any of the cylinders (more than 30psi difference), then it could be one or more of a few issues. Cracked cylinder head, cracked block, leaking head gasket, worn piston rings, orn/burnt valve(s), etc....

If I am wrong, please correct me.
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 12:59 PM
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180K miles ? I would not spend any money on it without re boring the cylinders
Shop around and get a low mileage 318 Magnum motor and swap..
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 02:16 PM
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its a 74 Charger, i would prefer to use the 318 or 360 that i already have.

i am leaning towards using the 360 heads shaved and replace the piston rings and bearings.
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 07:53 PM
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Re ringing without reboring and honing on an already established oil burner with net you an engine with un seated new rings that burns oil. With 180K on the clock its getting seals and a rebore.

From your sig its a nice build. I would grab a light weight replacement .030 piston and recut the cylinders.
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by PK1
Re ringing without reboring and honing on an already established oil burner with net you an engine with un seated new rings that burns oil. With 180K on the clock its getting seals and a rebore.

From your sig its a nice build. I would grab a light weight replacement .030 piston and recut the cylinders.
good point thanks. if i'm gonna do any machine work, wouldn't it just be better to use the 360?
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 03:06 AM
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The 360 is externally balanced whereas the 318 is internally balanced. You’d need a different torque convertor, maybe a flex plate too (not sure) and a harmonic balancer. At that point, you might as well just rebuild the 360 and throw on your performance parts (maybe a new cam depending on how much use is on the current one).

I think you should still do some research as to what is causing your oil burning before deciding what to do.
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 11:12 PM
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you can warm that 318 up to the tune of 300 horses pretty easily. i say keep the tiny!
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 09:20 PM
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burning oil

i got a 1983 chrysler cordoba with a 360 that burn oil do anyone know where it mite be burning oil from
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 09:21 PM
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need help
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 07:49 AM
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You don't have a good "low budget" deal here

First, what pan do you have for the 360? 318 pans don't fit 360 LA

Have you miked the 360 bores? Checked the crank? You never know it might be a "cheap" rebuild............I've got 2 cores here, and both the blocks are standard bore with VERY little taper, and both would be candidates for a re-ring. I would use cast rings

Likewise, not miking the bore on the 318 means a gamble. I do agree, though, that with 180K it is unlikely an "easy" re-ring.

The thing is, if you are going to "pay for a rebore" it's not any more money to bore a 360 than a 318. The deciding factor might be whether you can re-use the crank in either engine without having it turned "under."

The balance issue on a 360 is easy.........buy a B&M weighted flexplate built for that purpose.

Seems to me you have a tossup here Me? I'd lean towards a mild 360
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 09:54 AM
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using the 360 heads opens another problem. Unless you remove about .050 you loose compression... Now you have intake fitment problems, need to also surface the intake side of the head. also depending on intake fitment you may need to remove some from the bottom of the intake to make room for the seal..If re boring you can get pistons for a zero deck to get the compression up

Last edited by TVLynn; Mar 20, 2014 at 09:58 AM.
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by TVLynn
using the 360 heads opens another problem. Unless you remove about .050 you loose compression... Now you have intake fitment problems, need to also surface the intake side of the head. also depending on intake fitment you may need to remove some from the bottom of the intake to make room for the seal..If re boring you can get pistons for a zero deck to get the compression up
Yup. I intended to mention this. This is part of why this whole deal (depending on the condition of the 360) is not a low budget overhaul
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