scuba

Im at the point with my 383 to decide what to do with my top end. I had the block punched .30 over and stuffed with flat tops and 440 crank with 440 source rods (438ci). The motor was out of a 69 4-speed roadrunner. My real question is if the stock steel heads are worth keeping and working, or should i just go aluminum. and if i keep the steel heads what cam/intake manifold would work best.

Thanks

PK1

Welcome.

You found an excellent forum. Tons of good stuff on here.

Sounds like you are off to a good build. As far as heads and cam you need to consider the vehicles use and what you want to achieve.

That long block sounds nice and gives you an excellent clean sheet to play with. This is the point where I see most folks go sideways on the motor. "Best" is totally relative to its intended function. Give some thought to what you want for the end product and let us know..

scuba

this car will be a street car first and will see the track every so often and will need to be a pump gas car. i dont want to be cheap in any means but if i can get want i want out of this motor with out going to crazy it would really help because i have a radical build going on with my other car and every penny counts.

Thanks

PK1

You could keep it simple and low cost without boxing yourself into a corner. Re use the heads with these parts below. These parts will also work with Eddys if you want more power later.

-Performer RPM intake (used)
-750 Holley minimum with the ability to meter both primary and secondaries (used)
-Keep the heads and throw a 30 degree back cut on the intake when you R and R them. Clean up the castings yourself. Give your cam specs to the machinist and make sure he watches the guide / retainers clearance on the HL series.
-Comp Cams XE275HL or XE285HL. Depends on your taste and its use on the street. Use a matching spring.

scuba

where do ya think that would put me if ya had to put a number on that?

PK1

Goal should be plus 1hp per CI with spread of at least 2000 rpm with torque all in at 3700 rpm.

Say estimate 430HP - 440 HP / 460 - 470 Ft Lbs. Dont get locked on the actual numbers. For the street build for a flat torque curve with the biggest power band.

Search these forums more. There are some serious strip guys on here and I have seen similar builds in there sigs. Shot them a PM and ask them for a build sheet, I'm sure they will help you.


good luck!

TVLynn

Heads ?? Depends on what work they need ?? May be cheaper in the long run to get the Edelbrock heads now

scuba

thanks for the info and im sure it will be more than enough for an a-body, and i was looking at the 440 source stealth heads or the edelbrock... indy was way outa the question

Garys69RR

What pistons are you using? Flat or dome? How far below deck are they? I just built a 451 which is a 400 block and 440 crank. Using Ross 14cc dome pistons. C/R is right at 12.2 to 1. I am using the 906 heads with minor port work. That is what the 69 383 came with so I assume thats what you have. They work great! But do a good valve job with bowl blend and clean up. That will help alot, but not real expensive. Especially if you do the port clean up your self.

blue 68 gts

And thats why they call Dynos heart breakers.

scuba

im not 100% sure yet ill know all this when i pick the short block up from the machine shop... the block was decked and i am running flat top pistons. And as long as its a strong street car i dont think it will ever see a dyno lol

Chryco Psycho

I would lean towards the Stealth or Super stealth heads over Eddys , they are cheaper & would make at least the same power , upgrade the locks & retainers to 10* , make sure the springs match the cam .