I started my car and the exhaust note sounded a little rough and tinny. Pulled out of my garage and immediately noticed a loss of power. Felt like I was running on 2 cylinders. Drove down the street and at the first stop light while at idle (clutch out) felt and heard a loud intermittent thud under the car (like someone with a big rubber hammer every few seconds). Drove down the street some more and heard a loud metal crashing noise in front coming from engine area. Sounded like nuts and bolts were going to be strewn all over the street behind me. The car got me home and idled in the garage, but sounded a little rough. I did a visual and saw nothing. But the incident it seemed really really bad. Any ideas on what this could be?

I have a 69 date coded 440 block, 3 holley carbs, edelbrock E street aluminum heads, comp cam, forged crank, forged icon pistons, 10.1 compression, MSD full ignition system, 4 speed, A833 trans, dana 60 rear end, center force clutch, hooker headers, new double timing chain. The motor has less then 1000 miles on the rebuild. Everything is brand new premium parts. Its extremely disappointing and sad.

 

What type of cam, hydraulic roller? Do you have oil pressure have you checked the oil? Why did you drive it or keep it running?

 

Comp Cam - part # 21-224-4, hydraulic flat tappet. I have not checked the oil, in the craziness I even forget to check oil pressure. I was a mess...
Im scared to start it again

 

I'd check the oil, if it has oil and is not full of metallic material I'd start it again. If it's full of metallic material or its making crazy noises be prepared for an obituary.

 

Understood. Lets say worst case scenario. Cant I have the motor pulled and have everything flushed? Will any parts be salvedgable?

 

More than likely its cam or bearings but who knows....until its pulled apart. Did you check the oil yet?

 

Ok, thank you for the input. Im at work. Will have to check oil tonight or wait until she goes in the shop Saturday. I just spent a fortune building the entire motor 8 months ago...this cant be happening,...can it? Is it due to poor builders? Or can this just happen randomly? I drive it like a princess....

 

I hate to say it and you might have gotten ahead of yourself but **** happens. I've seen oil pump relief springs stick open, new cams go flat and bearings get spun, sometimes its oil related and sometimes it's the builder or part failure but it happens. The only thing you can do is pull it back apart completely fix it clean it and reassemble. You need to figure out the problem and why it happened.
I look forward to hearing what you find.

 

Ok, thanks again. Im going to have that pit in my stomach until I know....
Ill make sure to let you know what happens.
Regards,
Peter

 

Sorry to hear this. Hope it turns out not to be too big of a deal to get fixed. I agree with Iowan, I don't think I would start it before having someone look it over and figure out what's up with it.
Keep up posted on what you find.

 

Hi Guys,

So, oil pressure is good. No flakes or anything foreign in my oil. Car runs and drives. Its still somewhat of a mystery at this point. My mechanic did say that when he hit the bottom of my oil pan with his fist, something clinked around in there like it was bouncing and came then came to rest. They are taking the oil pan off as soon as they receive the new gaskets. Any ideas of what it could be?

 

Who built the motor?

 

One of the most reputable and longest lasting shops in Southern California

 

Have you been talking to this secret shop?

 

Yes. I called them once when the event happened and they said they have no idea what it could be. They said if it was anything inside the motor, the car wouldnt have gotten me home, wouldnt be running and driving. They are anticipating the diagnosis once I find out from my mechanic here in Florida.

My mechanic also showed me that the drive shaft was a little lose. He could move it back and forth slightly with his hand. They said maybe the crush plate was not crushed enough? I recently had a new Dana 60 installed with new U joints and pinion.

 

There is no crush sleeve in a Dana 60. There should be (after finish torque " 250 ish lb.ft." is applied to the pinion nut) 21ish lb.in. drag on the pinion alone when building with 0.000 end play. Did your rear end builder/installer add the Required friction modifier/enhancer to the rear end oil? The limited slip differential will try to tear itself apart without the additive and will make an unbelievable banging noise as it releases.. This looks like a job for DIFF Man

 

Ok guys. Here's what my mechanics said. The cork oil pan gaskets compressed slightly more over time (about 8 months since install). This caused clearance issues. My crank was apparently hitting the windage tray. Windage tray and oil pan were bent and oil pick up was lose.
New oil pan, new gaskets, new windage tray and Im done. What a relief!

Will advise when they get to the drive shaft/rear end.

Thanks!!

 

Glad to hear the news, I like that you didn't start bashing your engine builder in your first statement like some do.... How about some pictures and details on your car?

 

I had amazing builders. Even more important, amazing people.
I have a 1969 Road Runner post car. A12 exact clone. Bench seat 4 speed. Y2 Sunfire Yellow, black interior. Totally restored.
Ill try to get some pictures up
thx

 

Looking forward to seeing it.

 

I posted 4 pictures in the Gallery

 

Very Nice. Thanks for Sharing...
Hope it whines u[ not being to big of a problem.