7109jonathan

I have a 1967 Coronet with a rebuilt 440. Accel billet electronic cap & rotor, 300+ Accel Power Coil, and NO ignition box.

The car, when cold will fire right up and run fine. After I drive it for a while and shut it down it won't start back up. It cranks and sometimes, if I hold the throttle down, it starts. If I remove the distributor cap and clean the carbon off of the center of the inside of the cap, it will fire right up.

I center of the inside of the cap was just replaced and already looks like it has taken some serious heat. I have replaced everything at this point. Problem will not stop.

I put a meter on the wires going to the coil. I have 12V on the on/run wire and 10V on the ignition wire. I have not yet found the stock ignition resistor. It's not in the engine compartment.

Any suggestions please?

Thanks,
Jon

Gorts 5th

is the dizzy new or used? did you install it or some one else? are you sure that its the right coil for the dizzy and did you follow the directions when you installed it? does it need a ballast resistor etc. etc.
make sure all the parts are correct call the tec. line and get the opinion of Accel.

Archer

Jon -

So you are running points?

Not having the stock resistor may be the issue.

Archer

inri

I had a similar problem a short while ago. I upgraded my 800CCA to a 930CCA and haven't had an issue since. When the car is warm, 80 or more degrees in the engine I only need to touch the gas pedal to start it, otherwise I'll flood it.

It does take about 3 seconds for my car to start when warm but that's no big deal. If you haven't done so already you may want to buy the biggest battery you can fit in your battery box with the most CCA's and see if this helps. But try and avoid flooding the engine with gas when warm.

440roadrunner

1--Does the car appear to have factory wiring? If so, unless the wiring was cut, spliced, taped, the connections for the original resistor should be there on the firewall area wiring

2--You need to determine what it is that you have for a distributor? Factory? Aftermarket? Points? electronic?

3--I was unable to identify the coil from your description. You need to determine just what it is

You may have more than one trouble, or be on the wrong track. First thing I"d do, is next time it refuses to start, check the spark. Get yourself "rigged" for this so you can do so quickly. Either get or make a spark gap device --the parts stores sell spark checker tools. You can rig it so that you can see it through the gap in the hood as you operate the key. Use a solid core coil wire to check, and you should get a nice fat blue spark.

This problem may be, or at least partially be fuel boiling/ vapor lock. This is a very common problem with today's fuels. I finally went with used!! Craigslist!! fuel injection, but prior to that the smartest things I did was to "throw in the towel" and

install a rear mount electric pump, eliminate the mechanical pump

install a composition heat isolator under the carb

built a vapor return line setup using a Wix 33040 or 33041 filter, which has a built in return orifice. These were factory on some 440, and on the 440-6 and hemi cars This does require adding a separate line front to rear and devising a way to plumb to the tank.