Hi,

I am new here to the forum. I drive an own everyday a '79 cordoba with a slant 6 in it. Being a single female mom i dont know much about cars honestly and its really all i can afford at the moment.

Lately during these very cold temperatures, i am having a very hard time getting my car started in the mornings. I have noticed it takes alot more pumping (pumping before cranking and while cranking) then my usual 3 pumps before cranking and I am on my way usually (with rare occasions of course). Luckily, my battery is only 6 months old along with being tuned 6 months ago.

Ideas are appreciated and thank you!

Brenda

 

Brenda -

It might be normal for some of these cars, real question is did you have the same problem last year?

The first thing to look at would be the choke. It a piece of metal on the carburetor intake that should be closed when the car is cold. If it's not, it may need an adjustment.

Timing and the air/fuel mixture can also be at fault, but that should have been looked at when the car was tuned, but a lot of mechanics these days may not be familiar with older motors.

If any of those terms are unfamiliar to you, check eBay for a Chilton's manual for your car. Most of the info you need should be in there.

One big thing - cars of that era are pretty simple, just air, fuel and spark in the right measures, don't over complicate it, or let anyone else over complicate it.

Archer

 

Thanks soo much for the pointers Archer. What does "normal" mean for some of these cars?? Lots of cranking and pumping to get it started?? I did notice it last year of course, but not as bad as this year. I am really spending some time in the mornings trying to get it to turn over if that makes sense?

 

Brenda -

If everything is set and working correctly, 2 - 3 full pumps, hold the accelerator about 1/2 way and turn the key. Depending on how well the fast idle and choke were set, you may have to keep your foot on the gas for a few minutes until things normalize and the engine stays on by itself.

Usually, the engine will turn over pretty quickly, the problems are more about keeping it running until the temp comes up and it happy.

Archer

 

It is an electrical assisted choke. Could have a broken spring internally, Loss of voltage, Bad limiting resister? IT is not an expensive part.. probably $10-15 for a replacement

 

I want to thank everyone for their suggestions so far, and when i get some money up I will take to the mechanic and provide these comments so i dont get taken.

The key is the money to get to the mechanic. I need to soon hopefully as this morning took about 30 mins to wake her, was a delicate battle as the battery began to wind down on me so i had to give breaks between trys to let it recharge itself. On some of those breaks I pumped the pedal a bit before hitting the key again.

Thanks again

 

Brenda -

Do a visual first. With the car cold, pull the air cleaner and look at the choke plate. If it's closed, that's not the problem, if it's open, that's it.

When you do get the car started and up to operating temp, check it again, now it should be open.

The fix might be as easy as TV said.

Also, when you're pumping the gas, do you actually smell raw gas?

Archer

 

The choke plate this morning was closed when it was cold.

Yes- I have smelled raw gas before at times, but not all the time. It is weird, and I know this might not be right, but it seems the only response I get from it trying to catch is when I am actually pumping on the pedal while cranking it over??

 

I have to tell you that having a car of that age is particularly troublesome to attempt and drive everyday, if you are not a mechanic.

Unless the car has been converted, it is probably what is called a "lean burn" system. You can Google that and find all sorts of info, use words like "lean burn," and convert, remove, etc.

The problem with removing the lean burn system is first you must determine if your state/ local area requires any emissions tests on your car. This varies greatly.

Next, just how cold is it?

"Normal" for these cars would be something on this order, depending on temperature:

Down to "the 30's" F, you should be able to get in the car cold, floor and release the throttle ONCE, (which "sets" the choke) and with your foot OFF the pedal, the car should start and run. Now through the years from about 72-3 and on into your year model, some were more "cold blooded" that others, and if they fired up in this manner, they might die once and need restart, or might need to have the pedal "feathered" (lightly pumped) when trying to drive off cold.

Down into the low "20's"F, you might need to pump the pedal and release twice, but it should still fire up and start.

Now below the low 20'sF, things might become more complicated. Some of these cars started with two or three pumps, some one, and some needed 4 or 5. But they should at least fire, if not die afterwards, after a few seconds, not more than 10 or so, of cranking. This to me would be a "worst case" situation, barring something that caused the engine to flood, etc.

So............what to do?

1--The person(s) who tuned the engine should have some idea of it's condition. If the total mileage is not excessive, it doesn't use oil, has good compression, etc. In other words, the engine is in "good operating condition." So you need to determine this, otherwise you are wasting your time and money.

2--The choke must be properly operating. There are several adjustments on the choke system, but normally these do not become magically bent out of adjustment. They are normally checked when the carburetor is cleaned. These are detailed in the shop manual. Unfortunately I don't know where you could download one. If the electric heater is damaged or not getting power, normally the car will run "too" rich and choke up. However, it might be that someone had trouble previously, and wired the choke open, removed part of the linkage, or improperly replaced the choke thermostat.


3--Other things like, is the ignition providing a good hot spark, is the lean burn (f used) properly operating, ignition timing, etc, are all important. I would be questioning who ever tuned the car. Maybe they "took you for a ride?"

 

I would say mine is falling into this category, only exceeding the 4 or 5 range. I have to pump the pedal repeatedly when it catches. Hope this makes sense? It is a combination of pumping it while not on the key and then continue to pump while cranking. thanks for the input.

 

Even on the sunvisor in my '76 Cordoba it had instructions for starting it involving pumping and pressing on the pedal when starting it. Now that's new and not over 30 years old. As said look into the choke. What kind of mpg does a Cordoba with a Slant 6 get?

 

You have the first Cordoba I have heard of with a /6. Is it possible to post a picture?

 

Not exactly sure on the mpg. My sunvisor doesnt have those instructions, is it possible for you to provide me with them?? how much pumping does it say on yours??

Thanks

 

With all the pumping to just get it started, sounds like a weak or torn accelerator pump to me. With the engine off you can pull off the lid of the air cleaner and look down inside the carburetor while you work the throttle by hand, you should see fuel squirting into the intake manifold; you may need to hold the choke plate open with your finger so you can see inside. If not either the accelerator pump is gone or the fuel pump diaphram is weak or torn, allowing the fuel bowl to drain down. Either way, the car's nearly 35 years old and if these are original parts you can be sure they're pretty tired. Best of luck!