Wow PK1 you really stick it out . Nice job.You are a true Mopar lover... Not many people would go the extra mile to help someone out like that..

 

He's great! gave me good advice
"a true Renaissance Man"!

 

I no longer have the retainers and keepers original I only have these P4452032 and P4529218 I take those Hughes?

pro-tech you're right

is giving me a lot of help

i find a way to repay

 

YES. Those parts are fine. But dry fit to test.

No need to repay. My pleasure. I was lucky growing up and had some good folks help me. I wish more kids were dropping a 390 Mopar into a Land Rover. That is super cool!!

 

Hi,today I mounted the springs of Hughes but the problem remained.....
I mounted the pushrods original...

I would almost abandon the project

 

PK1, I would like to make one final test
put the pushrods to the right size

I have to put in 6.81 right?
the 0,060 was only if I use the kit 1425?

 

You need to measure for net lash and add .060 for the mopar lifter for the stock magnum Valve train. The lifter needs .060 regardless of the rocker or spring. The 1425 kit just changes the rocker attachment point from a pedestal.

IMO 6.81 is small. However you said you measured.

Tell me EXACTLY how much was taken off the head and the engine by the machine shop? What model head gasket you are using and I will run the numbers again.

Dont scrap it. Its a small issue.

Your springs are now correct. When PR is fixed it will be completed. Dont stop when you can see the finish line!

 

Yes hang in there FabioV8!
i have been following this thread since the beginning...don't quit now you're almost there.

 

Fabio,

Do this as a self check:

Install the 6.81 pushrod in cylinder 1 or 2. Make sure the cam is on base circle by following EOIC.

If the push rod is to short in a pedestal type rocker there will be slack or up and down play in the system. Since its to short it wont compress the cup in the lifter thru its entire rotation. Its that simple. Rotate the motor by hand a couple times and that push-rod will be extremely loose as it rolls back to base circle.

That will tell you if its short. Thats your noise due to lose of valve train control.

I would confirm that your measurement was off or they sent you improperly marked push rods.

Do you have the 1425 kit with studs and plates in your possession now?

 

the rectification work of the head and the block was done back in 2009 I can not remember now, my head gasket
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4876048

I have to check this with the engine off for days, or do I turn it on for a few minutes before the test?

Today I measured the push rods of the crane from 6,875 comps and my digital caliper measurement 6.9155 why?
I have the gauge fault?

no I did not buy the kit 1425

so much time working on this engine always having poor results, now I am very sad because I'm afraid of not being able

 

1. The head gasket is fine but it has a bore of 4.020. The stroker kit you have has a piston of .030 over bore. Please check this!

2. It doesnt have to run to check it so crank it with fuel off to cycle oil thru the valve train. Magnums oil thru the pushrod.

3. I'm not sure what you are asking? Could your calipers be off? Sure. You need to "zero" a measurement tool often to make sure its correct. Especially when dealing with finite measurements.

If there are FORD forums in your Country get on there and read the 5.0 forums. The valve trains are similar and maybe someone close can come help you out.

Every person on this forum who is knowledgeable and has skills has reached a point in a build where they needed help. ITs very very normal. God knows, I have thrown a wrench or two around the shop Stay at it. I stuck with this thread to see that motor run.. get her running.

 

ignore what I said about head gaskets... I forgot you were doing a 318 and not a 360.. Sorry. Your head gaskets are fine.

 

in my country until now can not find anyone who has experience with this engine ...
now I redid the steps with another digital caliper

push rods original and push rods crane 6.875


something not quite right

 

I just reread everything and looked up all your part numbers. Everything is good.

If the PR is too long the valves will hang open. If too small they will make noise. So they are not too large.

The stock magnum push rod is 6.920. You measure short but to be honest I do not think she is centered in the tool.

Stand the stock PR up next to the Crane one and measure the difference with the bottom of the caliper. Should be .045

Put the stock ones back in. EOIC to 22 ft lbs on base circle. Run her. If she spits and back fires then too long. If not check to see if you have up and down play in the system by moving the PR up and down when that valve is closed. If she has play then you are still SMALL. Problem solved. Order, install and run.

Send pictures of the wires on the cap so I can check order for you. And send a picture on the rocker and how it sits on the spring. Send a pic for how the spring sits in the pocket.

We are getting close.. She will be running for Spring time for sure.

If you are using aftermarket valve covers check under the valve cover for contact.
Check those headers for leaks.
Check the accel injectors for snapping when they run.
Make sure the ECU isnt causing this issue.

 

the difference of the two pushrods is 0.020


the other tests I can not let her alone I have to find a friend who can help me

the valves are original I have not changed

 

good news
today with the help of a friend of mine I mounted the pushrods crane 6.875 adjusting the rockers to 22 ft with this method


the noise seems to disappear,now feels much much less

I would like to buy the adjustable rocker arms, what do you recommend? I would not spend much

 

Glad you worked it out!!!!! That was long thread...


She will tick slightly as the lobe is aggressive.

Adjustable Rocker arms will require new pushrods. And for what you are have the stock rockers are excellent.

Comps 1425 kits contains all you need and retrofits a Chevy rockers. As mentioned above its just guide plates, 5/16 to 3/8 studs, rockers and rocker nuts with 6.8 pushrods. Dont buy this as the pushrods wont work for you. So if you want this package just buy the pieces and use what you want for a chevy rocker.

I run Harland Sharp rockers and like them.

 

it works thanks to your advice!!!!!
if I mount Harland Sharp rockers also have to change the pushrods?
I can use my of Crane?
I take the 1.6 or 1.7 arm ratio?

 

Harland Sharp makes two rockers: one goes on the pedestal and is a bolt on. You may be ok on pushrods but you will need to check the stem by measuring a witness mark.

The other converts the head to a stub based valve train and you can try what you have and measure the stem as well.

 

 

in recent times have been a little busy ...
I would like to mount the adjustable rockers are torn between:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/csp-s7307/overview/

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...1&partid=25628


what do you recommend?
those of Hughes seems to me a complete set of all

 

This is about LA iron and aluminum, a decent read if you get through some of the bickering and B.S.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...+tip+alignment

 

Sorry I had not updated with the new
I managed to finish the engine and test it on a chassis dynamometer, for all right now are running.
I think I have a problem with the spark plug,i use the Accel 0786,you can advise me of the best spark plug?
maybe platinum?
Thanks

 

Have you talked to Raffa at 2000 Motor? IF he is close to you he might be able to help you fix that problem....

http://www.2000motors.it


How did the Dyno Go? I dont think Platinum are good in this case....

 

I do not know 2000 Motor
I enclose a photo
because I do not advice to those platinum?

 

Platinum's work much better with EFI fuel managed systems. We have found that tips dont like the extra hot temps of the racing fuel we use, causing more of a detonation problem on our end with the tips getting red hot..
I like the GR4 NGK... Or another Heat Range of like kind....

Anyway.... What happened on the Dyno that you are having Spark plug problems?

 

I use a system EFI with 4 coils, no distributor.
the Spark plug NGK 2685 are fine?
my problems is: during heavy accelerated the spark plug get dirty and can not burn any gasoline, my mechanic says it may be my spark plug poor
I hope I explained myself

 

Might need to remap the ECU.... Might be just over fueling... But he should be able to figure out if it's dropping ignition or dumping way to much fuel at that point. Then you can pick a direction the chase... But until then your just chasing a ghost..

 

you're right
But first I want to put the spark plug good

 

Are you still trying to run the Microtech ECU system? LT16 or the LT10.

If your using this system. Check it for interference "Noise". If it is running good everywhere else in the rpm range?

As for the spark plugs... I would try the U-Groove NGK GR4.... Both of the plugs are about the same heat range "GR4 and the NGK2685", So if that's what you want to stick with? Have at it... But I would try the U-Groove, myself.
You might want to take a look at the EGT "Exhaust Gas Temp" and a O2 read to help figure out whats going on?

Bottom line is it looks to me as if it is ether dumping to much fuel at some point or it's loosing it's ignition fire from the system.

Hummmmm.... Good one here.....