Coolant and rubber chunks in oil
#1
Coolant and rubber chunks in oil
I've got a 383 4 barrel in a 68 monaco almost 200000 miles now. Today I pulled my valve covers off to change the valve cover gaskets that were leaking as I've got some new ones but on the top of my heads in the oil there is some coolant and some white froth and a bunch of rubber chunks. I have some head gaskets I can use to replace the old ones but I'm wondering what the rubber chucks could be. Is it my heads that are done for or what can I do? Need help quick please. Thanks
Last edited by 68monaco383; 10-27-2017 at 06:43 PM. Reason: Missed some details
#3
Could be valve stem seals could also be someone replaced the valve cover gaskets previously and did not clean the old gasket out...
Could just be cold weather condensation. If it is antifreese it could be the water pump housing leaking into the oil
Could just be cold weather condensation. If it is antifreese it could be the water pump housing leaking into the oil
Last edited by TVLynn; 10-27-2017 at 08:19 PM.
#4
#5
Pretty sure on valve stem seals
its not gasket the old ones were cork and I replaced them with cork but now I've got the rubber coated fiber ones. Pretty sure its antifreeze since its green drops. Could be the water pump good chance on that I just don't understand how that would be coolant in oil wouldn't it just leak coolant say if it was cracked? and would the valve stems being gone let coolant up to the top of the heads?
Last edited by 68monaco383; 10-27-2017 at 09:25 PM. Reason: Missed some details
#7
Mopar Lover
AS for the coolant....
My guess would be Head Gasket
Or
Cracked head or engine block
If it has the old steel shimmed head gaskets.... You might be able to get away with just dong the head gaskets as long as the heads and block deck are close to flat.
My guess would be Head Gasket
Or
Cracked head or engine block
If it has the old steel shimmed head gaskets.... You might be able to get away with just dong the head gaskets as long as the heads and block deck are close to flat.
#8
#10
Yes good point
makes sense but most likely fine. And yes it would be. I'm thinking my heads could be cracked but I'm not sure how to tell if I can't see an actual crack. I'm working on it now but I can't get the damn intake off its like its stuck on there
#11
Mopar Lover
Make sure you got all the bolts out and and the valve covers off and give it a pry. Could be glued on.
For the head check... If the crack is not viable, Mag-ne-fluxing is the way to go to check for cracks....
For the head check... If the crack is not viable, Mag-ne-fluxing is the way to go to check for cracks....
#12
Yep got it
Make sure you got all the bolts out and and the valve covers off and give it a pry. Could be glued on.
For the head check... If the crack is not viable, Mag-ne-fluxing is the way to go to check for cracks....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yyPxJNHeKlc
For the head check... If the crack is not viable, Mag-ne-fluxing is the way to go to check for cracks....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yyPxJNHeKlc
#13
Super Moderator
[QUOTE=RacerHog;141727]Make sure you got all the bolts out and and the valve covers off and give it a pry. Could be glued on.
For the head check... If the crack is not viable, Mag-ne-fluxing is the way to go to check for cracks....
These parts are 50 years old with much history so I have block and heads Mag ne fluxed every time I pull my stuff down.
For the head check... If the crack is not viable, Mag-ne-fluxing is the way to go to check for cracks....
These parts are 50 years old with much history so I have block and heads Mag ne fluxed every time I pull my stuff down.
#14
Look at this!
[QUOTE=Iowan;141729]
heads will be resurfaced today then pressure tessted then all the valve seals and the frost plugs but im going to post a picture and I would appreciate your guys opinion
Might not be able to see it in this one but there is a little chip on the edge of the left rear cylinder just on yhe block here i wanna know if thats going to be aproblem
You can see it here that little chip on the left
Heres a better picture you can see how deep it is
here
Make sure you got all the bolts out and and the valve covers off and give it a pry. Could be glued on.
For the head check... If the crack is not viable, Mag-ne-fluxing is the way to go to check for cracks....
These parts are 50 years old with much history so I have block and heads Mag ne fluxed every time I pull my stuff down.
For the head check... If the crack is not viable, Mag-ne-fluxing is the way to go to check for cracks....
These parts are 50 years old with much history so I have block and heads Mag ne fluxed every time I pull my stuff down.
You can see it here that little chip on the left
Heres a better picture you can see how deep it is
here
Last edited by 68monaco383; 10-31-2017 at 09:30 AM. Reason: Missed some details
#15
Super Moderator
What did the gaskets look like?
you should have been able to see the problem in the area of the cylinder in the gasket.
you should have been able to see the problem in the area of the cylinder in the gasket.
#16
Alright
the gaskets were a little rough in a few spots but no damage by that chip. Hoping it'll be fine. I'm going to post a picture of something else. I'm not sure of its name but I know it works with the choke. Anyways it likes to stick down should the bar be bent differently?
Here it is
#18
Thanks guys
#20
Update
e
Well everything is back together but i can not get it started I just turn the key and nothing except the interior lights will go dim. I've got crane cams xr700 electronic ignition and I believe I have everything hooked up right so i am getting pretty confused. Any help would be appreciated thanks
Well everything is back together but i can not get it started I just turn the key and nothing except the interior lights will go dim. I've got crane cams xr700 electronic ignition and I believe I have everything hooked up right so i am getting pretty confused. Any help would be appreciated thanks
#21
Super Moderator
e
Well everything is back together but i can not get it started I just turn the key and nothing except the interior lights will go dim. I've got crane cams xr700 electronic ignition and I believe I have everything hooked up right so i am getting pretty confused. Any help would be appreciated thanks
you should have been able to put the wiring diagrams together.
Well everything is back together but i can not get it started I just turn the key and nothing except the interior lights will go dim. I've got crane cams xr700 electronic ignition and I believe I have everything hooked up right so i am getting pretty confused. Any help would be appreciated thanks
you should have been able to put the wiring diagrams together.
Last edited by Iowan; 11-05-2017 at 12:09 PM.
#22
I don't have any
I don't have any wiring diagrams I have an original one for stock but i picked the car up with this electronic ignition and a bunch of other wiring redone.
#24
Frost plugs
so I didn't get it started and it started pouring water out of one of the frost plugs in the back of the heads. I only replaced the 1 1/4 inch ones on the side but these are smaller. Just one on the front and one on the back of the heads. Does anybody know the size of these smaller frost plugs? Thanks
#26
Mopar Lover
this might help...
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/cranemanual.pdf
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/cranemanual.pdf
#27
Yep
[QUOTE=RacerHog;141892]this might help...
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/cranemanual.pdf[/QUOTE
found the size its 1 inch ill get and do them all. Hopefully everything goes good this time.
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/cranemanual.pdf[/QUOTE
found the size its 1 inch ill get and do them all. Hopefully everything goes good this time.
#28
Update
this might help...
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/cranemanual.pdf
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/cranemanual.pdf
Last edited by 68monaco383; 11-09-2017 at 06:31 AM. Reason: Missed some details
#30
Alright
can't really send it back I don't have any proof i purchased it. Don't really wanna deal with sending it down to the states then back up here anyways. Looking at getting one of those pertronix igniters. No box and easy wiring sounds pretty good. Anybody have any luck with these? Or what's the best way to go around getting rid of the crane stuff. Thanks