Basically stock Magnum 360... Any one experience noticeable gains from switching to headers? That includes sound.

 

Yes. I think that a set of long tube headers work more efficient than shorty headers and you get what you pay for.
Many years ago, I put a set of inexpensive, painted black, Blackjack headers on a stock engine. The headers didn't turn it into a race car but, there was a difference as the car just seemed to run better and it also sounded better....
I'm sure that someone else will chime in.

 

My own opinion For a stock street car A nice set of dual exhaust 2 1/2" or 3" will make it run and sound better

 

A friend of mine did shorties and a full exhaust on his 98 ram with a 318 he noticed a difference. I'd stay away from long tube headers on a Magnum as the motors are not designed to run high RPM and that is where long tube headers shine. You'll see more of a performance gain from shorties, maybe even mid length headers.

 

YES!!! Especially on a magnum motor. Huge differences!

 

Smallblock Mopar exhaust ports are known to be small, so any help getting it out sure helps with the getting it in side too.

 

I believe it will have to come later... thanks to some unexpected head, cam, and lifters expense but I will most likely be back to this subject from a brand and short long preference aspect in the future.

 

in my opinion they are not worth the trouble, for a daily driver. these are things that might happen. 1 starter wont come out with out the headers out. 2. headers leak. 3. put extra heat into the engine, trans tubing, 4 replacing gaskets every year. 5 burned wires, plugs. remember headers help power mostly at top RPM. on a daily driver very little RPM is at top RPM.

 

There have been many articles with dyno results showing significant power gains 3500rpm and below on stock engines. If you search I'm sure you'll find lots of results confirming this.

 

honestly headers are a suppirting mod to a big job ex.. head work. i have put headers on dakotas and opened up the exhaust there was little to no diffrence if u spend the 400 dollars on a name brand header you will hate yourself. get a cheap set and feel good about it when u open.the hood.

 

Moe - I agree with you that with some headers, you can't get the starter out but with a set of shorties that usually isn't the case since most are designed to bolt up to the stock Y-pipes. This is especially true with some of the better name brand headers.

As for leaking, Hedman Headers are known for that. I had to double gasket two different sets of these headers and I will never buy them again.

The wires and plugs shouldn't be burning as headers are designed to increase flow which means that heat/energy should be flowing down the pipes and not through them. If wires/plugs are melting, I would think something is causing the headers to heat up too much (too much or not enough fuel maybe).

slade - I would never buy another set of cheap headers as they have a tendency of rusting out and leaking within 2 years (could be partly due to the fact that I live in New England and they use salt like it's going out of style). I'd spend the extra coin on a set of stainless steel or ceramic coated to help prevent the rust. As far as performance gains, headers by them selves, no you may not feel the gain. But Dave has prior posts about this engine build and it sounds like he'll be adding in some other goodies so headers would be a great upgrade.

 

Stock Magnum in its final years made 250HP.
Stock 300 HP Crate motor sold from Dodge was this exact same motor with headers and a dual plane intake. That's it. Same cam, pistons, etc... These were extra line run production tiny cam truck motors. Every one Ive ever worked on made over 300HP. More like 307-315. Same with their 380HP crate. Should have been called 405HP. But I digress.. My point? They need air increase on the intake and exhaust.

Here is the problem with adding magnum headers. Fuel!!!!!! Adding headers to any magnum motor with out reprogramming the pcm to add ALOT of fuel or tuning a carb with a wide band ( or letting an exerienced tuner do this ) will not show power gains. Computer will NOT compensate for the headers.

Heat: Yep. I had to coat mine and wrap. 300 dollars
Burned wire: Yep. My own fault. 10 bucks
Blown Gasket: 20 dollars

Leaving 50 feet of twin 275mm wide black stripes at will and sometimes in 2nd? Priceless.

 

78d200 i.live in upstate ny we have alot of salt my headers were 100 and were stainless my dad hass 2 sets and my brother has a set all on 2wd ram/dakotas. these dont see salt so idk how good if a grade the stainless is.


pk1 these truck mentioned above (except mine) are magnum v8 there was absolutly no noticable power increase. headers are only as good as the heads there attached to. if the heads arent breathing. the headers wont help. the whole system works that way all the way to the intake

 

I have had problems in the past similar to some mentioned earlier... Had a 67 Belv' that you would have had to pull the motor to get the starter out due to headers. I do want the extra power though. I am going back with stock cam and heads but doing the Edlebrock air gap RPM intake and their AVS off-road carb. What I really need to know is will my stock magnum manifolds be a "bottle neck"?

I like the sound of shorty headers bolting up to stock Y pipe as I just finished welding up my own exhaust... it is still single but it's 2-1/2 inch. All I would have to do is weld on a collector right?

I am more torn now than when I started this thread! given the nature of the project I am not wanting to spend a ton... it is just an off-road truck but at the same time it takes some *** to get the 38.5" boggers moving.

 

OK....Let me squeeze in here with my 2 cents...

I like headers. I like that Hot Rod sound.

I am on the other side of the fence on this one guys. Header do allot more than you think they do.

For you I think you have to decided if you want to spend the $1,000 Bucks for Headers 2-1/2 tubing and a set of FlowMaster 40"s and installation. Or something along those lines?

For me I would do the Airgap intake or the Performer...A Holley Vac. 650 or 750..(I'm Not a Carter Guy or supporter) Even thou I work on them. and install a small low end cam....But not a stock one

But if your going back to a stock cam.... If I can ask.... WHY BOTHER?

As for stuff rotting off the East coast Cars and trucks.... Most of that to me is a maintenance problem of cleaning and re-coating that dose not get done on a daily bases..... But that's not to say that Stuff don't wear out....

 

racer have u ever lived on the north east? theres only so much you can do the only way to protect up here is to garage it starting sept the
out when it starts to rain and cleans the salt off the road

 

Well this is a HOT topic..LOL.. I live in the NE and I put a set of stainless steel ceramic coated headers backed by Banks performance stainless mandrel bent 3" pipes and and stainless muffler on my 2003 Ram 2500 Quad cab 4X4.. It sounds throaty and nice, it gained me alot of torque and 2-3 miles per gallon. The stock exhaust manifolds rotted off after 18000 miles for the first set (under warranty) and another set less then 10000 miles later then they rotted out again so off they came and went for scrap. I believe I might be my own worse enemy because I wash this truck all the time because its Black... Since I replaced the manifolds with the headers no problem at all and there on there 3years.. The only thing I notice is a little blueing on the pipes close to the heads. I would recommend them in this application...Bill

 

Slade I'll answer in that order...ok...
1. Nope.... But Does that mean if I did live there, their would be no Rust buckets????? !!!!
2. Pressure wash it and dry it when your at your destination...
3. And Don't cop out on how to really maintain your vehicle...
Wash it... Dry it... and Coat it as necessary....
Dam You live there. That's just what you have to do to keep it Pristine..
I know its not as easy as it sounds..... Just the way it is...
We do use salt here on the west coast also....
I know...You where just looking for a realistic way out....
But...I don't think there is an easy way out?

 

wadhing and drying does not work. salt turns to a fine powder and goes everywere youll never stop it aside from.simply nit driving the car in those monthes. u live in so cal your worse conditions arent comparable . washing the vehical delays the process thats it.

 

OK....

 

Dave - I believe that the stock manifolds will only hurt what you are trying to do. You need to let that Magnum breath and headers are one of the only ways to do that.

Being able to spin a set of 39" boggers in the mud take power..... period. Doesn't matter what you have for a tranny, t-case, axle gearing, etc.. If you don't have the power, you won't be going anywhere. Yeah gearing helps but power and wheel speed is the key.

 

Bob, pressure washing the vehicle does work and like you said drying it.. I dont have any rust at all on my 2003 Ram 2500 and people ask me all the time is that a new truck you've got? I say no it 10 years old, well how do you keep it so nice.. I just answer I wash it.& Wax it . The truck cost me close to 40K you bet I'm going to take care of it Because I can't afford to buy another one. I checked out the price to replace it apples for apples and it is now close to 60k...Bill

 

bill. your just a lucky bastard thats all

 

Yup, I guess so... All my vehicles are in a heated garage with a wash bay. Not really lucky just fortunate and very hard work to be where I am today...Bill

 

no your not lucky your a damn cheater lol your input is excluded from this convo lol

 

I had no Idea I would be sparking a "heated" rust debate. I have to say though down here in NC my '86 truck has very little rust and none that is actually through the metal. Anyway I thank you guys for all the advice. I have been doing some research on the shorty headers and I think I like them. oh and to answer bob's question very simply... money. Stock set of sealed power cam and lifters for approx $350 and the lowest level performance cam I could find started at about that for just the cam. Some of us are working on a tight budget here people! Most of my money is going towards the 1970 Challenger 383 build.

 

Back on Topic <<<<<
Well There you have it.......

I like long tube headers... And yes they are worth the money and time...
Just my 2 cents
Bob

 

Aww were just having fun, all the post always take a hard left turn as you will learn and see. This off track wasnt bad at least we were still talking about Headders...Bill

 

could be about miatas lol

 

Slade, Dont go there... Thats water over the dam and lets forget about that Post... You & I are on the same page when it comes to miatas..Bill