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Old 01-27-2014 | 07:34 AM
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From: W-Texas
Help-Carb Linkage

I searched the forums but can't seem to find what I'm looking for. What would you recommend I use to replace my carburetor linkage, size and rigidity wire? Last resort, I can buy the pre-shaped ones specific for my carb(for 10 times the price), but something that won't break after its been bent/cycled a few times, and will hold its adjustment?
Old 01-27-2014 | 08:21 AM
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From: Mayfield,NY
buy the correct parts
Old 01-27-2014 | 08:43 AM
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It's just a piece of wire(or rod) that goes from one mechanism to the other, its straight with a U bent into it( app 3" in length), easily duplicated, with the proper material. I'm just wondering what wire/material they use to make these out of. Im not gonna pay 10x the price if I can achieve the same product and specs(which are given during the rebuild process) for a fraction of the price. Thats when it had its final bend, before it broke off during rebuilding the carb
..

Last edited by jabo51581; 01-27-2014 at 08:46 AM.
Old 01-27-2014 | 10:05 AM
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if you dont use the correct / stock parts and it jams open and cause a crash. what will you say to the insurance co ?
Old 01-27-2014 | 01:34 PM
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WHAT carb is this for ???
Old 01-28-2014 | 06:37 AM
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Man, you guys are way off, in the rebuild instructions, it shows you exactly the specifications of the rod, and how to manipulate this rod; that could cause any scenario you guys wanna sit around and think up if joe blow does it wrong. Im just trying to get a car running properly so I can begin a "mobile" restoration.......I might be goin out on a limb here, but I'm will'n to bet 90% of every car part on the forum was not made by some 100% incident free manufacturer. Im new to Mopar and new to this forum, but I've been doing Hot Rods and Muscle Cars for 20 yrs,(Im not familiar with this Carb), my God, I've never been attacked for such simple questions in my life. I have the capability to manage risks to determine if its safe or not to purchase a part or fabricate it. Im not try'n to be an A$$, I just wish people here would give positive feedback, help a member out, our just don't post. Your scenario is in no way even feasible, because you don't know any of the details, because thats what you should have asked.

Its a 75' Holley single barrel Model 1945 on a Slant 6- (to answer the second question), but on second thought, I'll go to the Hot ROD shop and see if I can just find a similar material by comparison.

When you floor the accelerator pedal, the throttle plate opens and a big woosh of air gets vacuumed in, why do you not hesitate, because your accelerator pump gives you that squirt of gas you need to overcome that sudden Lean condition. There is a rod that goes from the rocker on the throttle body, to the arm that has a very subtle movement that basically actuates a "Plunger like effect"(consisting of piston,stem,spring,and cup) that squirts the limited amount of fuel in the cavity underneath it to the discharge jet. If this pump doesn't return to its idle position by the spring load its under, the cup it just emptied doesn't refill, and next time you floor it, you'll hesitate........Rocker Arm - Rod - Plunger operating arm. I need the Rod, the stuff you twist, bend, and mold to tune in your carb to your tuning happy place......

Last edited by jabo51581; 01-28-2014 at 06:57 AM.
Old 01-28-2014 | 01:04 PM
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3/16" or maybe 1/8" mild steel would work
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Old 01-28-2014 | 02:35 PM
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From: W-Texas
Originally Posted by TVLynn
3/16" or maybe 1/8" mild steel would work
Thank You TV!
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