73Monaco

Hello fellow enthusiasts.

I may need to change some parts in my engine, since it's a bit mismatched, i think. The intake is an old Edelbrock Torker 383, which is single plane.
The cam is a Comp Cam XE284H, which i think is waaaay to big for the current setup...and a car weighing close to 4500 lbs.
Carb is a Holley 750 vac sec.
Exhaust is Hedman headers with dual 3" piping and flowmaster 70 series.

Engine: 400 cui. stock, stock heads (906, needs resto or replacement)
Car: 1973 Dodge Monaco 2-d HT.
Trans: 727 w/ stock stall (about 1200)
Rear end: 8.25, 2.71:1

OK, what i need is to get the power down in a lower RPM, since the car is very high geared (approx 2500 rpm at 70 mph!) .

I am towing a camping trailer with it in the summer, and it drives on long trips, so i am up to keeping the current transmission setup.

What i really need, is some good advice; what should i choose for:

- Cam (A torquey one - from approx. 900 - 4500 rpm)

- Intake (i think dual plane is a good idea ?)

- Heads (restoring my current ones, or aluminum? )

Feel free to comment and suggest.

Mighty MOPAR

Archer

73 -

Really does sound like somebody didn't get the memo about matching parts.
It's a relatively low compression motor, but can actually work, if you get the right stall on the converter and replace the rear with a stronger one with a higher gear ratio.

Still comes back to the same question, what do you want from and to do with the car? Yes, budget is a factor.

I would decide on an end game and do the rear and converter first.
with that cam, a 2800-3000 stall and 3.23 gears or higher and you might be really surprised. 3.23/3.55 is as high as I would go with highway driving in mind.

It's a strong cam, the only thing I would question is how that cam works with the engines compression.

Archer

RacerHog

All Looks Good.. I agree With Archer some what... Put some pistons in it and give it some compression so it can work. 10.0.1 or their about
Just my 2 cents

Skwerly

ooooof, for towing? if you have the stock stall converter in there i might step down to something like the comp cams 256h. it's made specifically for low-down torque (great for towing) and isn't lopey at all at idle.

Mr.4spd

84cc Edelbrock Performer RPM heads and a Performer intake. Big bump in compression and torque. Should wake it right up.

TVLynn

Towing
3.21 gear
Stock Hi Stall HD converter 1800 rpm
Trans cooler
260* cam
rebuild your heads

Your 284 cam needs a 3.55 gear minimum & 3K stall converter to work properly, not for towing !!!

ZombiePopper

Agree with Archer and others, change that TC stall and gearing, verify cam and replace if needed.
Although, I'll have to disagree with the performer intake recommendation (sorry), that's basically nothing more than a lighter (alum) stock intake.
the torker is a great intake (one of my favorites) but as you know its more of a mid-top end intake.
I'd recommend a holley street dominator, also a great intake (dual plane) and would work better for what rpm range you're looking for.

73Monaco

Thank you all for some fine suggestions and ideas.

73Monaco

Updated:
I've been hitting the Thanks button to all who contributed. Nice to have some opinions on the topic.


I've been searching around for some hardware.
As per today, i thought about getting these items:
- Weiand ActionPlus intake (Seems to be a good dual plane model for the lower RPM's)
- Comp XE250H cam kit with following specs: Advertised Duration 250/260, Lift .432/.444 , 600 - 4800 RPM
- A set of 452 heads, used but good, stock from a 440
- The 750 Holley vac.sec. , albeit a bit down in jet size
Converter with approx. 1200 - 1500 stall (from a Dodge Van)

A rebore, new pistons etc. will have to wait, as i have bought another 400, that i would like to make a stroker from. So my current engine, which is a matching #, can stay stock, or close to.

Any good advice or comments are still welcome. As well, anyone with a story to tell about rebuilding a torquey engine, or doing a "budget buildup" or so, are welcome to join with their story.

Coronet 500

I think you have chosen wisely for your low compression towing engine. The other cam and lifters can be saved as long as you keep each lifter identified to go back on the same lobe.

The only one thing I might change is the 750 carb if it is a 3310. Great carb for a performance "cammed" engine with the large primary throttle plates but not ideal for good break away (off idle) response.

I would like to see a spreadbore like a Thermo Quad or even a Quadrajet, I've come to like the Street Demon "goggle secondary" carb I'm using on our truck.

Cam specs for others to view.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=704&sb=2

Just for the heck of it I ran this on Camquest.

The 250 = 340hp 457tq

The 256 = 353hp 448tq

Skwerly

Agreed; real nice choices! that’ll prove a nice, reliable tow rig with plenty of oomph.

73Monaco

Thought about using a spreadbore instead - but the Weiand action plus intake is only for squarebore carbs, or so the supplier says. Therefore i can't , unless i go for another intake. If so, which kind of intake would yo recommend?

What Carter Thermo Quad, or, Quadra Jet size will be good for this application? Or Street Demon?

Or, should i go with the stock 2-bbl. intake and carter 2-bbl. carb that i found recently? (Personally, i don't think about that)

Coronet 500

Try this: http://www.wallaceracing.com/intakecfm.php

Street Demon 625 + 750. I'd go 625. The TQ or Qjet are 750-800cfm, don't be alarmed as the TQ was used on 318s to 440s, they can be made into what you need.

The beauty of these type of carbs that have an Air Valve Secondary is that even when the huge blades are open the air valve "flapper" opens only as much as the amount of air the engine is drawing in. The valve can be delayed or resticted by a spring or weight or other means. So simple jetting and metering rod changes can make these carbs do whatever you want from them...beautiful.

Hot Rod Dave

mill the heads .060 its cheaper than new ones that will bump your compression up just be sure to shim the rocker shafts .060 also.and a lower gear wont hurt

73Monaco

Wouldn't there there be an angle issue with the intake, if the heads gets milled? I've heard something about milling the intake side as well, when .060 is taken off, to make it match.

Hot Rod Dave

you have to mill the intake side of the head also,not a big deal if you dont have one you should get the mopar 8th edition engine book.I call it the mopar bible its mopar part #p5249010 i got mine 20yrs ago and its a great source for info nobody knows more about mopars than the guys who made em. If you do mill the heads be sure to check head bolts be sure they wont bottom out if they do get a set of hard washers and like i said dont forget to shim the rocker shafts it wont run if you dont.hope this helps you

73Monaco

Hello, here's an update:
Got it all put together the other day, and the result is satisfying.
Cam XE250H found its way into the block, without ruining the cam bearings.
Thereafter followed new lifters provided with the cam.
Then, the 452 "Motor home heads" got on. Found out that there's 2 types of spark plugs for these heads - these were out of a 73-ish Challenger and made for the tapered style plug. Fortunately, my local spare parts pusher had 8 pcs. of NGK BPR6FS, which is the same as Autolite AR23.
The Weiand 8008 Action Plus intake got on as well, and topped it off with a Holley 600 vac sec, with stock jets (#64).
The break-in went smooth, and the ignition was timed to 10-ish degrees before.
The idle was set, and the exhaust CO tested.
Now my ol' low-compression Monaco runs like a charm. Lots of bottom-end torque, smooth yet crispy idle, easy start and quiet at cruising speed.
Last but not least; this 2-ton ol' Dodge makes a pretty decent burnout with ease. Rear tires 275/60-15 and 2,75:1 rear end... wasn't able to do that before.

I would like to send a big THANK YOU to all of you who in any way contributed to this thread.

Mopar or no car.!