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From: Technically Orlando, but usually when posting on the crapper.
Holley Identification
I am just starting to peel back the layers of WTF is going on here. Lol. I was wondering if anyone knows what Holley carb this is, guessing it is a c745, and point out anything else funky going on, besides the zip tied choke. I had to resize the pics, if you want/need the full resolution let me know.
No, That is a holley R40093,, 2 barrel Carburetor.. The RED TAG is from the rebuilder there in Canada...
The carb you have selected will not work without purchasing a intake manifold as well...
Manual choke is ok, You can work on the thermostatic Choke set up later down the road. Looks all their, just may not have been working correctly
From: Technically Orlando, but usually when posting on the crapper.
Originally Posted by RacerHog
No, That is a holley R40093,, 2 barrel Carburetor.. The RED TAG is from the rebuilder there in Canada...
The carb you have selected will not work without purchasing a intake manifold as well...
Manual choke is ok, You can work on the thermostatic Choke set up later down the road. Looks all their, just may not have been working correctly
Thank you for the clarification. No wonder I couldn't find anything on it lol. It has been SOOOOO long since I have had a carbed engine. Last one was a 69 vw beetle I put dual mikuni carburetors and a built Suzuki 1.6 8v with a Weber 36 dcnf. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but any carburetor upgrade will also require an intake manifold upgrade as well?
Yes, Going from a 2 barr. carb to a 4 barr. carb will require a intake swap.....
it's kind of like try to use a single port intake on Dual port heads on a VW, as for reference...
We sure had fun with them VW's back in the day... 1835's, 2180's, and what knots... 09 distributors and good carbs like you mentioned as well as the IDS's... With a good old Rhino or Bus Trans. and if you got lucky, you did one of those cool turbo kits.
Now days they just throw a WRX motor in them.... Sheesh... Crazy fun !!!!
From: Technically Orlando, but usually when posting on the crapper.
Originally Posted by RacerHog
Yes, Going from a 2 barr. carb to a 4 barr. carb will require a intake swap.....
it's kind of like try to use a single port intake on Dual port heads on a VW, as for reference...
We sure had fun with them VW's back in the day... 1835's, 2180's, and what knots... 09 distributors and good carbs like you mentioned as well as the IDS's... With a good old Rhino or Bus Trans. and if you got lucky, you did one of those cool turbo kits.
Now days they just throw a WRX motor in them.... Sheesh... Crazy fun !!!!
I miss them old "Bug In Days"
Man I am so thick. Finally getting my head around it all. Are those 500cfm Holley's 2brls any good???
I miss going to ponoma in socal.. the drive from PHX was always fun! Here's a couple of pics from my ol love bug. I wish I still had it!
Those carbs get the stock engine work done... Maybe just try rebuilding it first and see if that gets it handled and back to running better...
Yes, Still having those swap meets all the time. The VW part has gotten a lot smaller that what you would remember... Kind of what i would call Tinny... We still have the Bug-In's here near me at Irwindale Drag Strip. Not as good as the old O.C.I.R. days, but still a good turn out... But your rite. a long drive from Phoenix AZ... But dam its get hot there!!! lol
Thats a cool old Bug... We like most all of them 1969 and back.... Did a few stock ones, a few Baja's, a few Hot Rods, Back in the day when parts was cheap... Hahahahahaha...
Anyway, Back to you truck... May need to tidy up some of the wiring also.... And back to the MSD, Yes it looks like it is not connected...
What is being used for the ignition system.. I dont see the normal ECU unit box?
From: Technically Orlando, but usually when posting on the crapper.
Originally Posted by RacerHog
Those carbs get the stock engine work done... Maybe just try rebuilding it first and see if that gets it handled and back to running better...
Yes, Still having those swap meets all the time. The VW part has gotten a lot smaller that what you would remember... Kind of what i would call Tinny... We still have the Bug-In's here near me at Irwindale Drag Strip. Not as good as the old O.C.I.R. days, but still a good turn out... But your rite. a long drive from Phoenix AZ... But dam its get hot there!!! lol
Thats a cool old Bug... We like most all of them 1969 and back.... Did a few stock ones, a few Baja's, a few Hot Rods, Back in the day when parts was cheap... Hahahahahaha...
Anyway, Back to you truck... May need to tidy up some of the wiring also.... And back to the MSD, Yes it looks like it is not connected...
What is being used for the ignition system.. I dont see the normal ECU unit box?
The MSD 6 is in there but not hooked up currently. As for the the ecu.....uhhh I gotta find it. There's soooo much birds nest going on I honestly going on lol. Besides needing a full 10min warm up before doing aaaannnnyyyyyttthhhiinngggg it runs fine. She does leak a little coolant, I think I found the culprit. I believe it's the top rad hose. I ripped the carpet out after I found an ants nets and other nastys growing in it. It was ratty anyways. There was probably 20 years of dirt in it. I put an ozone generator in it to kill anything/everything else for the last few days. I'm going to drain the rear diff as soon as I can get a new rear cover that has a built in drain plug. Right now it's fixing and cleaning all the "little" things. I also need to see what vac lines and chonked up preventing the vents from blowing and then get the ac up and running..... Lots of little things as it's a daily driver until my wife's buick gets back from the shop.
Oh... So we only have a cold start drivability problem?
I think i see what some of the problem is... " As long as the choke opens and closes fully?"
On the opposite side of the carb is that 1/4-20 nut on the choke shaft..... It is suppose to have a lever and a rod that goes down to the Lower Step Cam. >>>> That is for the fast idle when you have the choke closed and partly open. (Question is, Do you still have those pieces?)
From: Technically Orlando, but usually when posting on the crapper.
Originally Posted by RacerHog
Oh... So we only have a cold start drivability problem?
I think i see what some of the problem is... " As long as the choke opens and closes fully?"
On the opposite side of the carb is that 1/4-20 nut on the choke shaft..... It is suppose to have a lever and a rod that goes down to the Lower Step Cam. >>>> That is for the fast idle when you have the choke closed and partly open. (Question is, Do you still have those pieces?)
I think I'm missing those parts! I will see if I can source them and get a rebuild kit at the same time.
If you installed the Choke cable kit? The little lever may have come with it.... Then you can just make the rod with a coat hanger...
I'll see if i have a photo on my other PC when I get to the house...
Not, that rod gose to the choke bar that the tie wraps are connected to... That to open the choke slightly until the thermo coil that is dowm below that in the intake manifold...
From: Technically Orlando, but usually when posting on the crapper.
There's so many shade tree mechanics going on I have almost no idea how this this is even running. Multiple open vacuum lines, things disconnected, and odd ball plugs.
I'm beginning to wonder if I need to either A) take it to a Mopar shop and rewire everything, or B) Slowly close the hood and backaway lol
Tbh I would almost rather gut most of this wiring and just have a basic running truck. Idk if that's even possible. Everything mechanical
If you can just find the lever that fits where the 1/2-20 nut is and a rod.. I think your cold start / run problem may be solved...
If this site works for you. you can get the general Idea of how that is hooked up... Not your carb but you can get the idea how its supposed to be working...
