How to get an easier cold start?
12-12-2013, 08:13 PM
#1
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
How to get an easier cold start?
Hi everybody today I unmounted my carter AFB from the engine to clean it again due to idle problems but I want to take care at this moment to look if is possible to get an easier cold start. Right now start the car for first time in the day or if him has been stopped while 4 hours or more is very very very hard! I must crank the engine six or more times to get the engine running, no matter if choke plate is close or open but if I pump the throttle I can't see gasoline coming into the venturies is like if the carburetor bowl is empty. So What Can I check in the carburetor to solve this problem?
thanks !
thanks !
Last edited by josehf34; 12-13-2013 at 07:24 AM.
12-13-2013, 11:04 AM
#2
its your mech fuel pump. TOSS the mech fuel pump. get a carter electric pump. put it close to the fuel tank. and put a over ride switch on to pump the fuel up be fore starting. and a oil pressure switch in an accident to turn the fuel off.
12-13-2013, 12:14 PM
#3
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
Thank you for your help but isn't clear for me yet why the carburetor bowl gets empty? where goes all the gas, maybe it evaporates? I already checked the bowl for gas leaks and I didn't find leaks
Last edited by josehf34; 12-13-2013 at 12:16 PM.
12-13-2013, 12:17 PM
#4
It should work fine with the mechanical fuel pump.. For some reason the accelerator pump is draining the fuel. You must remember you are not working on a fuel injected system that every one is used to...Could have a Bad check valve in the accelerator pump circuit ?? Allowing the fuel to go back into the carb rather that out the accelerator pump.. Could be the pump itself Electric pump just covers up the problem Weather plays a big roll too...
12-13-2013, 12:39 PM
#5
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
It should work fine with the mechanical fuel pump.. For some reason the accelerator pump is draining the fuel. You must remember you are not working on a fuel injected system that every one is used to...Could have a Bad check valve in the accelerator pump circuit ?? Allowing the fuel to go back into the carb rather that out the accelerator pump.. Could be the pump itself Electric pump just covers up the problem Weather plays a big roll too...
12-13-2013, 06:38 PM
#6
Mopar Lover
If you think your having fuel evaporating problems you could try one of these:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/649...oductId=743742
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=2344008
There are many types, or you could make your own from wood just to try it.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/649...oductId=743742
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=2344008
There are many types, or you could make your own from wood just to try it.
12-14-2013, 07:07 AM
#7
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
If you think your having fuel evaporating problems you could try one of these:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/649...oductId=743742
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=2344008
There are many types, or you could make your own from wood just to try it.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/649...oductId=743742
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=2344008
There are many types, or you could make your own from wood just to try it.
12-14-2013, 08:35 AM
#8
Mopar Lover
I would first look at the fuel line coming to the pump and how close it is to any exhaust manifolding. If it is close then a sheetmetal shield with air gap will kee the heat out. There are insulation products that you can slip over the fuel line running along the intake manifold from the pump without having to relocate it.
12-14-2013, 09:04 AM
#9
Modern alcoholized and oxygenated fuel boils terribly.
Next time you suspect it won't start, before you crank the engine, pull the filter, use a flashlight if necessary and look down the carb throats. Give the throttle a little kick and you should see fuel spewing from the accel. pump nozzles. If not, the carb bowls have gone dry.
BUT THAT may not be the only cause.
On "hot shutdown" fuel can boil in the float bowls and force some fuel up over and into the engine, causing a flooding condition.
I finally went to EFI on my car
But before that, I was able to get a BIG improvement by doing these things.............
converted from mechanical to electric pump, mounted in the rear. You don't HAVE to use a great big race pump with regulator, there are many pumps which are a direct mechanical replacement
Constructed a fuel return system. I first saw one on my old 440-6 car. You can buy fuel filters with a built in return orifice. Wix 33040 ....5/16, and 33041......3/8. These have a built in 1/4" fitting for a return line with a return orifice. You orient the filter with the 1/4" line up, either with the can vertically or horizontally, and route the 1/4 return back to the tank.
Last, the above mentioned heat isolator. Someone on "another board" claims to have experimented Holley/ Edelbrock and claims the Ed carbs are worse for boiling BECAUSE THE FLOAT BOWLS are in more intimate contact with the hot manifold.
Also, most guys seem to be having better luck with the heat crossover blocked.
In my car, the "proof in the pudding" was hot vs cold weather. In my car, as long as the temp was below 60 or so the car would start anytime, cold or warm. But on a warm day, after the car warmed up, parked for a few minutes it took maybe 10 seconds of cranking to start. Cold starts were pretty much instant.
Before I converted to EFI, I considered installing a separate pump kill switch so that as I drove up and parked, I could kill the pump a few seconds early, allowing the carb to run partway dry, but never did this.
Next time you suspect it won't start, before you crank the engine, pull the filter, use a flashlight if necessary and look down the carb throats. Give the throttle a little kick and you should see fuel spewing from the accel. pump nozzles. If not, the carb bowls have gone dry.
BUT THAT may not be the only cause.
On "hot shutdown" fuel can boil in the float bowls and force some fuel up over and into the engine, causing a flooding condition.
I finally went to EFI on my car
But before that, I was able to get a BIG improvement by doing these things.............
converted from mechanical to electric pump, mounted in the rear. You don't HAVE to use a great big race pump with regulator, there are many pumps which are a direct mechanical replacement
Constructed a fuel return system. I first saw one on my old 440-6 car. You can buy fuel filters with a built in return orifice. Wix 33040 ....5/16, and 33041......3/8. These have a built in 1/4" fitting for a return line with a return orifice. You orient the filter with the 1/4" line up, either with the can vertically or horizontally, and route the 1/4 return back to the tank.
Last, the above mentioned heat isolator. Someone on "another board" claims to have experimented Holley/ Edelbrock and claims the Ed carbs are worse for boiling BECAUSE THE FLOAT BOWLS are in more intimate contact with the hot manifold.
Also, most guys seem to be having better luck with the heat crossover blocked.
In my car, the "proof in the pudding" was hot vs cold weather. In my car, as long as the temp was below 60 or so the car would start anytime, cold or warm. But on a warm day, after the car warmed up, parked for a few minutes it took maybe 10 seconds of cranking to start. Cold starts were pretty much instant.
Before I converted to EFI, I considered installing a separate pump kill switch so that as I drove up and parked, I could kill the pump a few seconds early, allowing the carb to run partway dry, but never did this.
12-14-2013, 09:40 AM
#10
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
Modern alcoholized and oxygenated fuel boils terribly.
Next time you suspect it won't start, before you crank the engine, pull the filter, use a flashlight if necessary and look down the carb throats. Give the throttle a little kick and you should see fuel spewing from the accel. pump nozzles. If not, the carb bowls have gone dry.
BUT THAT may not be the only cause.
On "hot shutdown" fuel can boil in the float bowls and force some fuel up over and into the engine, causing a flooding condition.
I finally went to EFI on my car
But before that, I was able to get a BIG improvement by doing these things.............
converted from mechanical to electric pump, mounted in the rear. You don't HAVE to use a great big race pump with regulator, there are many pumps which are a direct mechanical replacement
Constructed a fuel return system. I first saw one on my old 440-6 car. You can buy fuel filters with a built in return orifice. Wix 33040 ....5/16, and 33041......3/8. These have a built in 1/4" fitting for a return line with a return orifice. You orient the filter with the 1/4" line up, either with the can vertically or horizontally, and route the 1/4 return back to the tank.
Last, the above mentioned heat isolator. Someone on "another board" claims to have experimented Holley/ Edelbrock and claims the Ed carbs are worse for boiling BECAUSE THE FLOAT BOWLS are in more intimate contact with the hot manifold.
Also, most guys seem to be having better luck with the heat crossover blocked.
In my car, the "proof in the pudding" was hot vs cold weather. In my car, as long as the temp was below 60 or so the car would start anytime, cold or warm. But on a warm day, after the car warmed up, parked for a few minutes it took maybe 10 seconds of cranking to start. Cold starts were pretty much instant.
Before I converted to EFI, I considered installing a separate pump kill switch so that as I drove up and parked, I could kill the pump a few seconds early, allowing the carb to run partway dry, but never did this.
Next time you suspect it won't start, before you crank the engine, pull the filter, use a flashlight if necessary and look down the carb throats. Give the throttle a little kick and you should see fuel spewing from the accel. pump nozzles. If not, the carb bowls have gone dry.
BUT THAT may not be the only cause.
On "hot shutdown" fuel can boil in the float bowls and force some fuel up over and into the engine, causing a flooding condition.
I finally went to EFI on my car
But before that, I was able to get a BIG improvement by doing these things.............
converted from mechanical to electric pump, mounted in the rear. You don't HAVE to use a great big race pump with regulator, there are many pumps which are a direct mechanical replacement
Constructed a fuel return system. I first saw one on my old 440-6 car. You can buy fuel filters with a built in return orifice. Wix 33040 ....5/16, and 33041......3/8. These have a built in 1/4" fitting for a return line with a return orifice. You orient the filter with the 1/4" line up, either with the can vertically or horizontally, and route the 1/4 return back to the tank.
Last, the above mentioned heat isolator. Someone on "another board" claims to have experimented Holley/ Edelbrock and claims the Ed carbs are worse for boiling BECAUSE THE FLOAT BOWLS are in more intimate contact with the hot manifold.
Also, most guys seem to be having better luck with the heat crossover blocked.
In my car, the "proof in the pudding" was hot vs cold weather. In my car, as long as the temp was below 60 or so the car would start anytime, cold or warm. But on a warm day, after the car warmed up, parked for a few minutes it took maybe 10 seconds of cranking to start. Cold starts were pretty much instant.
Before I converted to EFI, I considered installing a separate pump kill switch so that as I drove up and parked, I could kill the pump a few seconds early, allowing the carb to run partway dry, but never did this.
Today I'm going to put the fuel line away from the intake maybe this can help a bit and I'm going to ask for the price of a electric pump. A friend of mine has a check valve in the fuel line near the carburetor. Can this help?
Yesterday I was a bit surprised because I accidentally dropped my old Holley 2245 carburetor and it still keep a lot of fuel inside on it (it was stored since two months ago), in my country all the gasoline has between 10 and 15% of ethanol so why the gasoline on the holley doesn't vaporized?
Last edited by josehf34; 12-14-2013 at 09:56 AM.
12-15-2013, 12:42 AM
#11
Accelerator pump is feed from the float bowl. IF YOU LOOK UNDER THE PUMP SHOOTER It has a check ball to keep fuel from being pushed back into the float bowl SO NO it doesn't go into the intake.. It could go into the intake if the float level is too high
12-15-2013, 04:52 PM
#15
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
The carb has a manual choke but it doesn't make any difference if I use it
if its in good shape pump some fuel it the manifold and it sit for 30 sec before cranking
Accelerator pump is feed from the float bowl. IF YOU LOOK UNDER THE PUMP SHOOTER It has a check ball to keep fuel from being pushed back into the float bowl SO NO it doesn't go into the intake.. It could go into the intake if the float level is too high
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