Ok...Now lets talk about what you mean by not running rite??????

Explane or shoot another video and lets take a look...

 

Well it wasn't popping and seems to be running steady I mean it fired up quicker than it ever has almost like a newer car would. I just know messing with the timing can damage the motor I read. It was reading steady at 10 degrees before TDC. I just don't messing with stuff too much I like to be sure of things, my Father in law knows a lot more I am still learning this as he shows me and I learn from everyone on here that helps me out and gives me tips. I will shoot a video tomorrow showing what I did excatly. I marked the distributor before moving it and I put it back where it was I will make a step by step video of what I did, I ran the positive wire directly to the battery to see if it would work I still don't know where I could hook it up while keeping the ballast resistor. I purchased a Pertronix flamethrower 2 the oil filled one with the built in resistor, can I get rid of the ballast resistor being there is one built in and do I still need to keep the original wire on the positive side that comes from the ballast resistor.

 

The 10* BTDC is fine...Your not going to hurt anything....
If you want to... You can just piggy back a connector off the ballast resister.
Or just a Double male spade connector and a small wire to take the place of the ballast. then you can use the old wire back on the coil... Hook the red from the dist. to the coil. and just remove your jumper wire.... Then if you ever need to go back to your points for any reason. You can just unplug the wires, hook them back to the ballast, install the old coil and you back to stock points...

Lets get this done before you get all messed up..... OK?

 

Ok so put the positive from the distributor back to the flamethrower positive side when I install, leave the old positive wire from the ballast resistor and remove the ballast resistor and connect the two wires from the B Resistor with a connector, am I close to what you said or still way off.

 

Yep...... Just leave the ballast bolted in place.... Just unplug the wires and add the connector wire.... See if it starts and runs...

 

ok will do thanks

 

Ok now I noticed one other thing, there is some oil on the valley pan towards the back, the pan isn't cracked, I have the oil breather on the valve cover, maybe I advanced the timng too much so I put it back to the marks I had it at. Unless the gasket isn't sealed enough. I only put the valley pan with some permatex high tack. I do have the aluminum intake so maybe I need the extra gaskets with the aluminum intake, not sure. The valley pan is brand new so hopefully i can reuse it if i have to use the gaskets with it.

 

Not caused by the timing

 

Never had this problem before could the heads be warped