Hi Guys,
I'm totally new to mopar and am in the middle of swapping a dead 360 out of a 1979 higtop van for what appears to be a 1980 360 I found in the classified (the block number starts with a 0W360).


The physical swap is done and was fairly sketchy at times owing to space clearances, but the engine is now bolted in.


The new engine has a Carter Thermoquad that may or may not need rebuilding - previous owner said it might be seized, but I am not convinced, and I have two of the smaller carbs from the 1979 - don't know what they are. the new engine also has a vacuum booster that the old one didn't have or had had deleted.


My first question is, the new engine has black 1/2 inch tube that connects the just below the two valve covers (rear) routes over the top on the drivers side and was once connected to a rubber hose... Can someone tell me what this is?


Once I get the plumbing and electrical connected, I am sure I will be back with a series of carb questions.


My skill level is at the youtube mechanic level, I've rebuild land cruiser carbs, changed clutches and rebuilt an old british sports car motor, but this is the newest (and biggest) thing that I've worked on...


Thanks!

 

I believe the tubing is this system.

http://www.autozone.com/repairguides...00c152800529e3

 

Coronet 500 is spot on...... That is the Air Injection pipe.... It runs from the air pump diverter valve back too the the back of the Exhaust Manifolds..

 

Helpful, thanks! I've looked up now what the diverter valve looks like, I will see if there is a connection point on the '79 for this '80 part. Here is a pic of the air injection pipe... excuse how ugly the engine is - goal here is to get it running...

 

I don't know what exhaust emission regulations and testing is where you live but if you remove this system and plug the holes in the ports with other updates you can improve fuel mileage and performance.

I have passed ours with 2 bbl carb, new exhaust cats and retarded timing, all installed just for testing.

Block casting numbers just above starter.

71-74, 3418496.

75, 3870230.

76-86, 4006830.

87-92, 4315830.

 

Thanks Coronet,

I won't be able to get back to the van until next week, pretty sure its a 1980 based on the other stamp, but will check the actual casting next week.

Re emissions, because of its age and the fact that it was previously registered in Alberta, I just need an insurance inspection. $50 and one of my last three was done by a guy who didn't get out of his car... so they are usually easy.

Does anyone have a link though to a good vacuum pathway chart? The ones I have found so far on google are all pretty different - probably owing to different required in different jurisdictions at time of manufacture.

I was going to grab a Haynes manual at some point - maybe that will help,

Cheers!

 

Just use your original ex manifolds.. the manifolds should cover the injection holes in the heads..
Difference was cars had the system, trucks/vans did not have the air injection system

 

So, on to the vacuum system. If anyone feels like matching up the hoses in these two pictures, that would be remarkably helpful. This was never assembled and half the lines are newer and therefore don't have the original color coding... Also, I think at least one of them may be tied to an aftermarket cruise control that I am not hooking up for now. i want to get some of this hooked up correctly...

I used this:

http://imperialclub.org/~imperialclu...Page19-big.jpg

to try and get some of the connections...

The block number is 4179930-560-10, so in range for a 1980...

Thanks!

 

Well, I may or may not have sorted the vacuum problem (most of the hoses are connected to something), but the larger problem i have is no spark.
I have a new coil, plugs, but here is the odd thing, I get no spark while trying the ignition, but periodically when I return the key to the of position, i get a spark..
I chasing the wires now, but I thought if that oddball problem might be suggestive of where to look for my no spark issue (?)

 

Did this run before you pulled the motor?

 

Supposedly, although it hadn't run in a while as it took a bit of oil and patience before I could get a full rotation without any resistance. Although the PO also thought it might have had a coil issue...
This motor had the loom cut so I have been using the van's original wiring. However, this wiring has been modified slightly when I compare the two. There are a few splice ins to the aftermarket cruise control, and second, there seems to have been a modification in one of the wires from the boot just ahead of the trans (has a blue, white and red wire coming out of it... the red is modified) will take a pic tonight. Also, it seems like some connectors have been changed/reversed...


Last night I bought the Haynes for it thinking I could find a wiring diagram - but it wasn't too helpful - what I really need is a photoguide of this wire goes here..


I have also been running a clean ground wire back to make sure there isn't a grounding issue.


One thought from another google search is that somehow the ignition and aux wires are reversed - that is why I only get a single spark reliably as I turn the key off.


I do have power at the new coil, so I was thinking of chasing wires for a while and then swapping the dizzy with the one from the old engine...


I hate electrical...

 

I'm thinking you might a bad ignition swich, or you have crosted a wire from the starter solenoid.

 

I seem to have spark -
I reversed the offset plugs (orange and black) going to the distributor and it is now firing more regularly (pic 3).
I also flooded it so i am now waiting for things to dry out before I try and figure out why it wont grab.
But I at least have gas and spark.

You can see on top of the coil the odd bit of splicing..

 

Good for you!!!!

Every obstacle you overcome is a lesson learned.

 

Aaargh - A few weeks back I did a quick compression check on the passenger side, sitting around 150 - thought great and left it at that. Just checked the driver side and everything is below 75, boosting to 90 with oil in the cylinder...

Wondering if you think it could both be poor rings and the head gasket (since it only boosted slightly with the oil) - or if you think that it's rings. If it's rings, I am done, no way I am pulling that out a second time and paying to rebuild...

time for a pint or two...

 

First question is always all plugs out and throttle blades blocked fully open.

I would remove both valve covers and check push rod straightness and movement of all valves.

 

Well, I pulled the head on the offending side:
pretty dirty in there - cleaned up what I could, no apparent scoring on the cylinders though,
push rods seemed fine,
valves dirty, but all opened and closed fine,
replaced the head gasket, and...
no change to the compression -


I don't have the time (or energy) to pull and rebuild the lower end and I am not willing to gamble on another used motor...


Thanks for your help on this -


anyone want an old van??