98 SNAKE EATER

I had been putting off installing my cheap deep pan and brass filter until I got an 8 point socket for the band studs in the mail.

It finally arrived this week, so I pulled the old pan down, adjusted the bands according to Hughes' specs (2 turns front band w/3.8 lever, 2.5 turns rear band, both pre-torqued to 72 inch/lbs.)

My only reason for adjusting the bands was because I had a 400-500rpm flair during WOT 2-3 shifts (I've got a reverse manual valve body btw)

Anyways, after putting everything back together, I noticed it wouldn't go into reverse from neutral and I would have to put it in park first, then back down to reverse for it to catch

And if I try to put it in neutral from 1st, it would stay in 1st until I put it into reverse first, then back down into neutral (weird)

While driving in 3rd, if I try to downshift quickly into 2nd, there's a bit of a delay before it actually downshifts (it was instant before).

Under normal driving from a stop, 2nd seems to hit a bit harder now, chirping the tires at low throttle.

As for my initial problem, the 2-3 flair is pretty much gone, but I guess I opened up a can of worms by adjusting the rear band

Perhaps 2.5 turns is too tight??

Didn't check what rear lever I had

TVLynn

First re adjust the shifter linkage then retry it..

RacerHog

I think you got a "FUBARED" valve body....

98 SNAKE EATER

The linkage was fine before the adjustment and I didn't mess with the linkage other than to remove the bracket in order to gain clearance for the front band adjustment.

That being said, I spoke with TorqueFlite Patty and he suggested readjusting the rear band to 2 turns out and the front band to 1.5 turns out, so that's what I'm in the process of doing right now.

I had used Hughes' online specs for their manual V/B yesterday as that was all I had found while searching, but I'm not sure which V/B I have and TFP said the specs he gave me are pretty much standard for most manual V/B's.

TVLynn

Yes specs are all about the same ! Since you removed the bracket RE ADJUST THE LINKAGE should just take a few minutes Maybe it wasn't completely adjusted properly before.

PK1

is this in a 98? 46RE?

Adjust the linkage again and make sure the TV cable is properly set.

98 SNAKE EATER

Got me


How do I tell?



I never adjusted the linkage.

It was fine before the band adjustment, so I just dropped the pan and re-adjusted to TFP's suggestion.

I did notice the lock nut for the pivot arm was loose, but the joint is threaded, so it wouldn't lose position anyways.

Up on the lift, everything appears to be working normally now, but I'm about to take her for a romp on the street to see how she does.

moe7404

i found an EXTERNAL trans filter. i think it should keep you from having to change the interanl filter.

man o man i about forgot yes its a cut & past sorry. __________________
after you clean the trans. add this to your*chrysler*trans. an external fluid filter
1. go to auto-zone. get 2210, its called a power steering filter, but it is for transs to. it is for 3/8 tubing. by (magna-fine) be sure to use high pressure hose. Reff:http://www.magnafilter.com.au/magna-fine.html*
2. for other sizes wix 58964 5/16 tube size reff:http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlook...sionfilter.asp

98 SNAKE EATER

OK, back from my romp and everything seems to be working just dandy

The 2-3 WOT flare up is back, but has been reduced much lower than what I started with (only about 100-200rpm's now)

Put the Mickey's on cause I plan on playing around later tonight

Moe, even with an external filter, the primary filter will still be the first to pick up any debris from the pan.

An external filter may help keep things clean with added redundancy, but it shouldn't keep me from servicing the original filter when needed.

blue 68 gts

Always listen to T-flite Patty... that man knows automatic mopar transmissions better than anyone... He personally taught me to build transmissions. Guy is a genius I tell you. Glad to hear you're good to go.