1969 dodge dart gt 7.25 rear with automatic 904 and small 4" bolt pattern.

With out too much expense being involved what would be the most economic rear to swop out the 7.25.....

i'm looking just bolt in, keeping the 4 inch bolt pattern (I do not want to buy wheels and tires and change the front spindles and control arms to match)
and just switch the drive shaft with out too much expense.

let me know.



don't have the spare (who does)

 

Your choice to keep the 4" bolt pattern limits you to a pre 69 A body 8 3/4

 

any suggestions? year make model?
will the exsisting drive shaft work?
will it bolt in with no problems?
welding?

 

Any Diff out of a bigblock dart should fit the bill....

 

You will need to shorten the drive shaft & replace the U bolts and shock mount.. 67-69 Dart, barracuda, Valiant 64-67 will probably fit too.

 

?? Wait a minute.

To the OP, how much HP you run? If you can get by with an 8 1/4 those had small BP up 'til 73 when all cars were disk front/ big bolt pattern.

 

ok i found a guy that has an 8.25 rear from a plymouth scamp.
he was running a 318 with a 904.

will the scamp rear work? if i'm not mistaken did the scamp have a smaller wheel base?
should i grab the drive shaft as well?
its from a 72 scamp with small bolt pattern.
If this rear is ok what will i need to get her in....
shock mounts? where do i get them from?
u bolts?
anything else??

thanks huys

 

I believe you can buy the shock plates and U bolts from Summit. The shaft may or may not fit, but I'd get it too. You may have to have it re--tubed.

 

ok here is the deal now can get the rear 8.25 for 75 bucks.
has brakes and drums and a small bolt pattern

i never ever worked on one of these types of rears i always had the 8.75 so excuse my greeness.....

questions, it has no springs can i use my springs that are in the car now that are from the 7.25 rear they are not that old? if so what size u bolts will i need?
the rear has the shock plates already on it can i use them?
what else will i need.

kindly give part numbers or links, he does have the drive shafts which are included in the price

 

If the "new" rear has the shock plates they are fine

You'll have to measure the tube dia (I don't remember) to get the right U bolts. In most urban areas (even the cowtown of Spokane) you'll find a spring/ brake outfit which will have hardware such as spring clips, center bolts, wedge shims and U bolts

Some years changed the parking brake cable set up. I don't know? might be able to use your old cables.

You need to get yourself a shop manual, even if the wrong year. Here's a thread over at FABO where several manuals are "linked up." Do NOT use the 72 electrical section for later years, there was some changes

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=244981

 

for $75 you can't go wrong. Your springs are fine, the shock plates should be fine too JUst a new set of U bolts.. The best way to remove them is to cut them !!! Use an angle grinder if you don't have access to a torch

 

ok u bolts thanks for the tidbit about grinding.
why is that best as opposed to taking the nuts off?

 

They are usually rusted & they have a self locking nut and unless you have a 1" or a very good 1/2" impact are a B to get off.
By hand figure 3-4 hours by hand 15 minutes with a grinder

 

did the mopar 8.25 rear ever have the small bolt pattern?
i think this guy maybe wrong.....

 

He could always have the axles re drilled

 

ok Im going to leave the 7.25 rear alone until next year.
starting to get cold here. and 8.25 rear was rusted solid....
But last questions.....
The yoke seal is leaking on the 7.25 rear.
What is the procedure for removing the yoke to replace the seal?
Any special tools require for removal?
Do i need to worry about a crush sleeve I remember some mopar rears don't have them.
Torque specs???
I looked around and not much info out there.
I hope it's not too involved, if so I'll leave it for now

 

Procedure is pretty much in the shop manual, I believe

Basically I mark the nut, and use an inch pound torque wrench with the axles pulled out to measure pinion drag. "rig" something to hold the yoke and remove the nut, yoke, and change the seal. Reinstall the yoke, and carefully bring the nut back CLOSE to the mark. Start checking pinion drag, tightening the nut a tiny amount until the drag is same as when you started, and the mark should end up close to where you started with the nut.

You do realize? That what you are doing here is preventing over--crushing the crush sleave

 

Ok thanks 440 you pretty much answered my question.
I was going to do it the way you have stated with the torque wrench.
Not using the click type wrench using the needle type. also Going to mark the Shaft - Bolt - yoke and pumpkin and additionally I usually loosen the bolt and then count how many turns the bolt is on exactly as backup.

Just was not sure if there was a crush sleeve in the 7.25 Don't know why I was thinking that there was not.

Sounds easy enough thanks for the answer

 

Ok with great effort I was about to remove the nut and yoke.
Going to replace the seal now.... Quick question, the pinion bearing closest to the seal, Should I replace it while it's apart or leave good enough alone was able to pop it out with no problem.

Not sure if I should, Looks kinda worn....
Let me know what you think, it's a 7 1/4

 

You'd be taking a chance. First measure the thickness of the inner race of the new bearing, it must be exactly the same as old bearing, if it is different don't use it. If they are the same you could try it but you run the risk of a not worn bearing not pulling up the same to the crush sleeve and not having your original preload. This can lead to complete disassembly to install a new sleeve.

 

LEAVE IT ALONE !

 

Yea after Some thought and reading the posts i left good enough alone
thanks