74 fury steering rebuild
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Mopar Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 377
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From: Medellin, Colombia
74 fury steering rebuild
Hi guys!
Yesterday the mechanic told to me that he needs to replace one Idler Arm of my steering (I contact them for an inspection because I Had problems with steering noises). I understand that this power steering is 40 years old so I was thinking: Which could be the parts that maybe needs to be replaced as preventive maintenance to get a healthy power steering?
In some A and B Bodys I had seen something like this, what could be the benefits of using this?
IF A FORUM STAFF MEMBER READ THIS THREAD PLEASE CHANGE THE THREAD TITLE TO: "74 fury steering and suspension rebuild", THANKS!
Yesterday the mechanic told to me that he needs to replace one Idler Arm of my steering (I contact them for an inspection because I Had problems with steering noises). I understand that this power steering is 40 years old so I was thinking: Which could be the parts that maybe needs to be replaced as preventive maintenance to get a healthy power steering?
In some A and B Bodys I had seen something like this, what could be the benefits of using this?
IF A FORUM STAFF MEMBER READ THIS THREAD PLEASE CHANGE THE THREAD TITLE TO: "74 fury steering and suspension rebuild", THANKS!
Last edited by josehf34; Jan 22, 2014 at 10:08 AM.
Thread Starter
Mopar Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
From: Medellin, Colombia
Thread Starter
Mopar Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
From: Medellin, Colombia
A moment ago I talked with the mechanic and he told me that the car needs urgently a suspension rebuild work so I started to look at ebay for some suspension and steering parts, in this moment I have the follow items in the shopping list but I want to know if those are good quality products and, what other products should buy?
Items:
-Ball Joints kit
-Suspension control arm x2 (left and right side are the same or different?)
-Quick Steer Ball Joint (How much are, maybe 2?)
-Quick Steer Tie Rod End (How much are, maybe 2?)
Right now the steering box (or maybe the pump) has a very little leak in some place (i don't know where it is), the pump reservoir gets empty each 3 or 4 months so I don't know if will be better to change the steering pump, hoses and box
Which other parts will I need (pitman arms, idler arm, poliuretane bushings)?
Items:
-Ball Joints kit
-Suspension control arm x2 (left and right side are the same or different?)
-Quick Steer Ball Joint (How much are, maybe 2?)
-Quick Steer Tie Rod End (How much are, maybe 2?)
Right now the steering box (or maybe the pump) has a very little leak in some place (i don't know where it is), the pump reservoir gets empty each 3 or 4 months so I don't know if will be better to change the steering pump, hoses and box
Which other parts will I need (pitman arms, idler arm, poliuretane bushings)?
Thread Starter
Mopar Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
From: Medellin, Colombia
Thank you I didn't see it so I'm going to modify the shopping list to:
-Ball Joints kit
-Quick Steer Tie Rod End (How much are, maybe 2?)
Which other parts should I buy?
What about this shock absorbers? are good and will fit on my car (front and rear tires)?
-Ball Joints kit
-Quick Steer Tie Rod End (How much are, maybe 2?)
Which other parts should I buy?
What about this shock absorbers? are good and will fit on my car (front and rear tires)?
Last edited by josehf34; Jan 22, 2014 at 07:58 PM.
Mopar Lover
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 248
Some rambling ramblings
First, try to find "new old stock" Moog or at least U.S. brand name "stuff" like Spicer (Search Ebay and don't afraid to ask confrontational questions of the seller)
It "used to be" that stuff like Spicer and Moog was "good stuff" but nowadays we hear from folks that sometimes this is not the case............there was a guy over at FABO who had several A body Moog idlers fail from HEAT and it turns out they are PLASTIC internally
I would not fool with "kits." Just order the parts
There is NO WAY IN HELL that I would "not" do a complete and I mean COMplete inspection and rebuild. Inspect the K member where the lower arm pivots mount for damage and cracking, especially. Inspect the T bar sockets for rust and damage.
Replace ALL replaceable moving parts..............
Upper/ lower A arm bushings, upper / lower ball joints,
sway bar rubbers if equipped, strut rod bushings. Pay attention to destructions on how to install these because THE DESIGN CHANGES with factory and aftermarket
Replace the idler, and inspect the pitman arm carefully, replace if necessary.
Inspect the tie rod ends carefully, and if you have the "bucks" replace them all.
Do you run radials? If so, do NOT use factory alignment specs. Read this and go down and use the "skosh chart" specs
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/...alignment.html
The key points between modern radials and the factory specs:
You want a LOT more caster especially with power steering. Personally, especially with power I would not run less than 3 degrees.
Camber is "upside down" from bias ply tires. Older specs called for POSITIVE camber which means the tires are "out" at the tops of the tires. Newer radial specs call for NEGATIVE camber which means they are "tilted in" at the tops of the tires
Referring to the "skosh" chart, they call for neg .5 degrees. That is probably a decent starting point.
First, try to find "new old stock" Moog or at least U.S. brand name "stuff" like Spicer (Search Ebay and don't afraid to ask confrontational questions of the seller)
It "used to be" that stuff like Spicer and Moog was "good stuff" but nowadays we hear from folks that sometimes this is not the case............there was a guy over at FABO who had several A body Moog idlers fail from HEAT and it turns out they are PLASTIC internally
I would not fool with "kits." Just order the parts
There is NO WAY IN HELL that I would "not" do a complete and I mean COMplete inspection and rebuild. Inspect the K member where the lower arm pivots mount for damage and cracking, especially. Inspect the T bar sockets for rust and damage.
Replace ALL replaceable moving parts..............
Upper/ lower A arm bushings, upper / lower ball joints,
sway bar rubbers if equipped, strut rod bushings. Pay attention to destructions on how to install these because THE DESIGN CHANGES with factory and aftermarket
Replace the idler, and inspect the pitman arm carefully, replace if necessary.
Inspect the tie rod ends carefully, and if you have the "bucks" replace them all.
Do you run radials? If so, do NOT use factory alignment specs. Read this and go down and use the "skosh chart" specs
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/...alignment.html
The key points between modern radials and the factory specs:
You want a LOT more caster especially with power steering. Personally, especially with power I would not run less than 3 degrees.
Camber is "upside down" from bias ply tires. Older specs called for POSITIVE camber which means the tires are "out" at the tops of the tires. Newer radial specs call for NEGATIVE camber which means they are "tilted in" at the tops of the tires
Referring to the "skosh" chart, they call for neg .5 degrees. That is probably a decent starting point.
Thread Starter
Mopar Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
From: Medellin, Colombia
Some rambling ramblings
First, try to find "new old stock" Moog or at least U.S. brand name "stuff" like Spicer (Search Ebay and don't afraid to ask confrontational questions of the seller)
It "used to be" that stuff like Spicer and Moog was "good stuff" but nowadays we hear from folks that sometimes this is not the case............there was a guy over at FABO who had several A body Moog idlers fail from HEAT and it turns out they are PLASTIC internally
I would not fool with "kits." Just order the parts
There is NO WAY IN HELL that I would "not" do a complete and I mean COMplete inspection and rebuild. Inspect the K member where the lower arm pivots mount for damage and cracking, especially. Inspect the T bar sockets for rust and damage.
Replace ALL replaceable moving parts..............
Upper/ lower A arm bushings, upper / lower ball joints,
sway bar rubbers if equipped, strut rod bushings. Pay attention to destructions on how to install these because THE DESIGN CHANGES with factory and aftermarket
Replace the idler, and inspect the pitman arm carefully, replace if necessary.
Inspect the tie rod ends carefully, and if you have the "bucks" replace them all.
Do you run radials? If so, do NOT use factory alignment specs. Read this and go down and use the "skosh chart" specs
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/...alignment.html
The key points between modern radials and the factory specs:
You want a LOT more caster especially with power steering. Personally, especially with power I would not run less than 3 degrees.
Camber is "upside down" from bias ply tires. Older specs called for POSITIVE camber which means the tires are "out" at the tops of the tires. Newer radial specs call for NEGATIVE camber which means they are "tilted in" at the tops of the tires
Referring to the "skosh" chart, they call for neg .5 degrees. That is probably a decent starting point.
First, try to find "new old stock" Moog or at least U.S. brand name "stuff" like Spicer (Search Ebay and don't afraid to ask confrontational questions of the seller)
It "used to be" that stuff like Spicer and Moog was "good stuff" but nowadays we hear from folks that sometimes this is not the case............there was a guy over at FABO who had several A body Moog idlers fail from HEAT and it turns out they are PLASTIC internally
I would not fool with "kits." Just order the parts
There is NO WAY IN HELL that I would "not" do a complete and I mean COMplete inspection and rebuild. Inspect the K member where the lower arm pivots mount for damage and cracking, especially. Inspect the T bar sockets for rust and damage.
Replace ALL replaceable moving parts..............
Upper/ lower A arm bushings, upper / lower ball joints,
sway bar rubbers if equipped, strut rod bushings. Pay attention to destructions on how to install these because THE DESIGN CHANGES with factory and aftermarket
Replace the idler, and inspect the pitman arm carefully, replace if necessary.
Inspect the tie rod ends carefully, and if you have the "bucks" replace them all.
Do you run radials? If so, do NOT use factory alignment specs. Read this and go down and use the "skosh chart" specs
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/...alignment.html
The key points between modern radials and the factory specs:
You want a LOT more caster especially with power steering. Personally, especially with power I would not run less than 3 degrees.
Camber is "upside down" from bias ply tires. Older specs called for POSITIVE camber which means the tires are "out" at the tops of the tires. Newer radial specs call for NEGATIVE camber which means they are "tilted in" at the tops of the tires
Referring to the "skosh" chart, they call for neg .5 degrees. That is probably a decent starting point.
Why don't you recommend to buy an entire kit?
If the crossmember has cracks, Can I repair it or should be replaced?
If I finished the rebuilding but in a near future I want to swap to a Big Block engine must I change suspension or steering parts?
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