Rear suspension for power
For a while. I go through a set of HD Mopar leafs every five or so years. You'll know when they go, bump steer and a hard list to one side usually an inch and a half in my experience. What kind of traction bars do you have?
the factory pro racers had the rear leaf springs set n a very spical way. the trick is to get rear axle to push down, that gives you the traction. if the axle goes up that is trying to take weight OFF of the tires. i have seen, in preson, the very fastest chrysler set record after record with NO traction bars. ie, the 68 hemi cuda. when leaf springs, are set right you dont need traction bars. my friends and i would laugh ad guys with traction bars on chrysler,
1968 -
The stock suspension (if in good condition) with t-bars will be fine (until they fail, and they may not...). However, I'm assuming the 68 has a unibody construction (sorry, not familiar with that model), if you run slicks and hook up, you really need to tie up the frame. Sub frame connector would be a minimum.
Archer
The stock suspension (if in good condition) with t-bars will be fine (until they fail, and they may not...). However, I'm assuming the 68 has a unibody construction (sorry, not familiar with that model), if you run slicks and hook up, you really need to tie up the frame. Sub frame connector would be a minimum.
Archer
Newport is unibody design. I will be running Mickey Thompson street radials, 8" wide. Don't want the wide slicks look. So I am not sure of what direction I need to go to keep wheels planted. I have not chosen a traction bar yet. Suggestions?
1968 -
With 600 HP and street tires, there's no way you're going to "keep the wheels planted", unless you know how to walk the car off the line.
I like the Lakewood traction bars, or anything with a similar design. The will stiffen the ride, even before the bumper engages (the bumper should be about 1/2" off it's contact point).
If your current springs still have a satisfactory arch, they should be fine. If they are sagging, then go to the super-stocks, just make sure of the ride height. These guys know more than I do about needing special brackets or not. Not that familiar with the Newport.
Archer
With 600 HP and street tires, there's no way you're going to "keep the wheels planted", unless you know how to walk the car off the line.
I like the Lakewood traction bars, or anything with a similar design. The will stiffen the ride, even before the bumper engages (the bumper should be about 1/2" off it's contact point).
If your current springs still have a satisfactory arch, they should be fine. If they are sagging, then go to the super-stocks, just make sure of the ride height. These guys know more than I do about needing special brackets or not. Not that familiar with the Newport.
Archer
See Calvert Racing. Springs, traction bars (Caltracs), and all four shocks. John Calvert will give you exactly what you need!
Do it once, do it right.
That car is a barge(with all respect), you need more than average suspension help!
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