70 gtx gauge problems
70 gtx gauge problems
Hi all, I just replaced my 5 volt regulator with the digital do it yourself set up, now my problems are fuel gauge shows half when tank is full, temp gauge pegged hot and oil gauge pegged 80psi+ any and all help appreciated thanx Maxwell 1
Have you actually checked what your homebuilt regulator is outputting with a voltmeter.
I would not CONSIDER putting a cluster back in a car without bench testing after all that was wrong with my 67
Cluster PC board harness connector pins--- these get loose, broken and corroded. Resolder, repair as necessary
IVR. You've already been there, but for others, the brass fingers into which they fit may not be contacting the board traces. Solder jumpers across, and replace the IVR with a solid state one from RTE (or build your own)
Gauges. The gauge units can be bad, or out of calibration. The stud nuts can be corroded so replace the nuts and loosen/ tighten several times
The sender connections all go to the board connector...............
Temp, and oil, if equipped go through the bulkhead so that's one more possible bad connection
The fuel sender wire goes through the tail harness kick panel connector, and in the case of the fuel sender, check that the sender is actually grounded.
And the wire connections at the senders may be loose/ corroded or internally broken.
Of course the senders can be bad/ out of calibration.
Once you get the cluster problems "I think I fixed" bench check it.
All gauges use the same scale. Go to RadShack, etc and get some resistors. You probably want at least 1/2 watt. Gauge "full" is 10-15 ohms, 1/2 scale is 23--15 ohms, and empty / cold is 70--75 ohms
For example, you can buy four 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistors from RadShack and wire all 4 in parallel, which makes a 25 ohms resistor for checking 1/2 scale.
Hook to the sender terminal of one gauge at a time to ground, and turn on power to the IVR, after about a minute the gauge should show very close to mid-scale.
Ground--Clusters depend on some luck for grounding. It's better to add a pigtail ground wire to the PC board and screw to the column support bracket or other ground point.
My 67 PC connector was in such bad shape that I abandoned the original connector, soldered pigtails to the board traces, and used "Molex" style connectors from Rad Shack.
I have no idea what you did with your homebrew 5v regulator, but the first thing to check is that it actually outputs 5v.
I would not CONSIDER putting a cluster back in a car without bench testing after all that was wrong with my 67
Cluster PC board harness connector pins--- these get loose, broken and corroded. Resolder, repair as necessary
IVR. You've already been there, but for others, the brass fingers into which they fit may not be contacting the board traces. Solder jumpers across, and replace the IVR with a solid state one from RTE (or build your own)
Gauges. The gauge units can be bad, or out of calibration. The stud nuts can be corroded so replace the nuts and loosen/ tighten several times
The sender connections all go to the board connector...............
Temp, and oil, if equipped go through the bulkhead so that's one more possible bad connection
The fuel sender wire goes through the tail harness kick panel connector, and in the case of the fuel sender, check that the sender is actually grounded.
And the wire connections at the senders may be loose/ corroded or internally broken.
Of course the senders can be bad/ out of calibration.
Once you get the cluster problems "I think I fixed" bench check it.
All gauges use the same scale. Go to RadShack, etc and get some resistors. You probably want at least 1/2 watt. Gauge "full" is 10-15 ohms, 1/2 scale is 23--15 ohms, and empty / cold is 70--75 ohms
For example, you can buy four 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistors from RadShack and wire all 4 in parallel, which makes a 25 ohms resistor for checking 1/2 scale.
Hook to the sender terminal of one gauge at a time to ground, and turn on power to the IVR, after about a minute the gauge should show very close to mid-scale.
Ground--Clusters depend on some luck for grounding. It's better to add a pigtail ground wire to the PC board and screw to the column support bracket or other ground point.
My 67 PC connector was in such bad shape that I abandoned the original connector, soldered pigtails to the board traces, and used "Molex" style connectors from Rad Shack.
I have no idea what you did with your homebrew 5v regulator, but the first thing to check is that it actually outputs 5v.
Last edited by 440roadrunner; Sep 1, 2013 at 09:14 PM.
I never said you didnt give good info. you always do and go over and beyond what you have to. You are an asset to the sight and have alot of knowledge to share. But sometimes you can be arrogant with your answers.. I said I was sorry and its done. As for people questioning the hard work that Ive made a life effort Of.. Such as to be a master tech and scoff at it that pisses me off and he will never get any help from me ever...Bill... So 440 are we good?
Was there a reason you didnt use the limiter/regulator made for the car? If the dash gets to much voltage you are going to smoke the circuit board and the gauges so be careful...Bill
Last edited by pro-tech; Sep 2, 2013 at 07:29 AM.
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