fivepoint

The ignition swich on my 69 Satellite has failed again. It fails on the run position. The switch is only 3 months old. This time it failed at idle and the engine just quit. The last time it was at 60 MPH and took out both mufflers. I have checked and cleaned the switch connection and the connection at the firewall. The ballast resitor has been changed. My father owned this same vehicle back in the 70's and I recall the swich being changed at least once or twice back then. When I restored the car, the 318 was removed and replaced with a 440. It has a new Summit distributer and coil. When the restoration was done, all electrical connections were cleaned. I can not figure out what is killing these switches. The amp meter shows a normal charge and the voltmeter shows between 14 and 14.5 when running. I would think that if something is drawing hard enough to burn up these switches that I would have indications of problems elsewhere. Are these switches known for failure? I think these were used for one year only. I would like to cause of these failures before I have to add a relay in the system to save on $60 switches.

70newport

I am no expert by any means but I would look at bypassing the amp meter as well as go through the bulkhead connector if it is not "bypassed." I know I didnt think my bulkhead connector was an issue at all till I took mine appart and realized that the connectors inside were black.

Just my 2 cents that could be completely wrong but it would be a starting point to eliminate things at least.

TVLynn

Do you have a big heavy key ring ?

440roadrunner

This is about the best thing I've seen. These cars are not known for failing switches. What they ARE known for is POOR CONNECTIONS

CAREFULLY check the bulkhead connector for damage, corrosion, and "tight" fitting, as well as the connector on the ignition switch.

Even if you do not bypass the ammeter, read this article which tells the how and why of bulkhead connector problems:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml

However, I freely admit that the "problem" seems contracdictory, because poor connections in the ignition circuit will result in an overvoltage condition, because the regulator is receiving low voltage through the bulkhead in such case.

So.............I donooo............. but nobody else "back in the day" went around with a trunk full of switches.

You have any big accessories added, like electric fans?

fivepoint

Thanks for the responses. No there only two keys on the ring. For some reason I was convinced the ignition system was causing this problem but there is more drawing on the switch in the on position. When I restored the car, I made it a point to clean every connection I found. But after reading that fine link that 440 included, I guess its time to bite the bullet and bypass the amp guage and improve the bulkhead connection. Though I am not running much of a load (ign and lights), I would like to have a switch last longer than an oil change.
Thanks again
Dan

440roadrunner

The ammeter bypass may and probably does not have anything to do with the problem directly. I'll admit, I'm a little stumped. These cars were not known for being hard on ignition switches. My 67 Dart still has the original switch. So did my 64 I owned back in the '70's, so it was 8 years old at the time.

Having said that, I DO run relays on my Dart, and rewired the car which did away with the ammeter I use a wrecked Voyager underhood relay box for high/ low beams, the pump, ignition, and one more for security as well as fuses right there in the box.