RacerHog

That big hole needs a pipe plug to seal it for now..
Dont drive it without the TV linkage hooked up... You will burn up the transmission..

73'DartKid

Ok thanks thats what I figured, and yeah don't have to worry about me driving it for now, long ways to go till that can happen. I'm wondering if the kick down is going to be accurate with the new configuration. I just have my stock linkage, it reaches the throttle linkage on the carb, but it doesn't appear to be located right, can I just get the rod from another vehicle to make it work? Also where is the vacuum for the auto transmission?

Coronet 500

No vacuum for Chrysler transmission.

Large photo by RacerHog #25.

https://moparforums.com/forums/f81/h...buretor-15463/

TVLynn

You should be using the linkage from the thermoquad carb !!!!

73'DartKid

Ok so no vacuum on the transmission? And I am using the factory linkage on the TQ, but I'm using the factory kick down linkage for the factory 318 car.

Coronet 500

I have put together many on my own. The slotted link from a 2 barrel can be cut and add a 1/4" coupling nut and a piece of 1/4" threaded rod to lengthen and have easy adjustability. The stud can be got from many suppliers, the mount for the throttle cable can be a little tricky depending on the manifold bracket you have.

RacerHog

http://www.classicindustries.com/mop...ts/mn2542.html

This Bracket is different between the 2 barrel carb and the 4 barrel carb.
The off set is not the same.....

Maybe Coronet has a photo of his Modification...

73'DartKid

Alright guys, sorry its been awhile, classes started and I've been busy with that and only able to work on the car in between. So here is where I'm at, the TQ ended up leaking in a couple of spots, so I decided screw it.

I'm going to use the carter AFB, if I'm going to rebuild one, might as well be that one, so I had to order all the linkage for the carb (mainly just needed the accelerator pump linkage) and the Chrysler throttle adapter. Got that hooked up.

Got a plug for that hole in the manifold, thats all wrapped up.

Ended up cutting the EGR valve and welding it shut. (just cut the vacuum part off (the little alien ship lookin' deal) and welded the plate), so looks good there.

OK, so after all that, I decided to go ahead and see if I could run the carburetor without rebuilding it, main concern was how the acc. pump would do, ended up firing up, but ran terribly. That is to say it seemed to be timed right, sounded good when it was at a consistent RPM, but the main issue was the car would not could not idle.

From my experience, not much, but when I've had a bad acc. pump, the car won't throttle up good, ex)smash the throttle to the floor, the car falls on its face. This did not occur here, it was the opposite, the car only wanted to run when I was hitting the throttle, up and down, up and down, up and down, that was the story of the day.

So, couple of questions, do you think that the carburetor needs to be adjusted?

Also, I didn't connect the distributor vacuum line, could that be a problem?

Oh, and also, I ended up getting the throttle bracket(for the Kickdown and linkage) off of a 78' Le Baron, that was equipped with a 360 & TQ, looks like a good match. So that should be ok there.

Thanks guys.

73'DartKid

Here are a few pics of the update...

Close up of the accelerator pump linkage.

Here is a close up of the throttle adapter and such...you can also see the EGR valve welded.

Here you see the space between the throttle and the kickdown lever, is this ok, or should it be against it? (no space between?)

73'DartKid

Also, I had a question about my alternator, the wires were all messed and the it wasn't working, so I took it out and had it tested at the local parts place, it was turning out 14.9, so it should be good, is this how the wires should be? am I missing something? Thanks guys.

Also, the black wire was corroded and broken, stripped it, and replaced the connection, BUT there is also another black wire that doesn't have a connection, it is just sitting there, no connector, any ideas where it belongs?

TVLynn

Their should be some springs on the linkage to take up the slack

73'DartKid

UPDATE: The car is now running. I rebuilt the carburetor and adjusted the idle mixture screws. The car is purring again. BUT of course that isn't all.

I'm still experiencing issues with the alternator charging. The alternator is good, that battery is good, but I realized yesterday that the voltage regulator had fried.

So I went and picked up a new one, plugged it in, as soon as I start the car the AMP meter goes all the way to the "40+" and pop goes the regulator. Or so I assumed, went and exchanged it, before installing the newest one I inspected the wires, I had found that the black wire coming from the alternator, and the green wire coming from the alternator had shorted out and fused to each other in just a small spot. I peeled them apart and taped them up, went to install the new regulator again, as soon as the car starts up the AMP meter goes all the way to the "40+" again, so I instantly shut the car off. (before any damage was done hopefully)

What do you guys think? I'm at a loss here.

73'DartKid

Also guys, I just pulled all the tape of the wires in the engine compartment, they aren't in exceptional shape, but not bad for 40 years old. None of them were burnt or melted from what I saw.

I read somewhere that a good test to run is: hook one end of a multimeter/ voltmeter to the positive side of the battery and the other end to the Blue field wire of the alternator, then put the ignition is the "RUN" position without starting the car and see what the meter reads, if it reads more than .2 volts, that's bad. Mine is reading like 2.1 volts. Could this have been a typo on the other end or am I screwed? Thanks guys.

Coronet 500

Look up some of 440roadrunner past posts, he has some great step by step diagnostic information on Chrysler charging systems.

moe7404

did you put an AFB straight on a spread bore maniflod? it needs steel plate that edelbrock makes AND the bottom gasket will leak vac unless you use the spcl wide at the spread bore, gasket that edelbrock makes on the bottom, and a reg gasket between the carb and steel plate. I THINK. but double check with others to double check what i said.

73'DartKid

That there be my problem! I do not have that adapter in there. I must be getting a air leak because when closing my mixture screws the car still wouldn't die. I will be getting one hopefully saturday. Going to a big auto salvage flea market deal, lots of old/new mopar parts there. (I hope,usually is)

Also, got the alternator ordeal figured out. I just cleaned up the wiring a bit and it seems to be working alright. Might be over charging though...i don't think i'll really know till I start running the car for prolonged periods. Charging now varies from 15.5-14.2, when the car shuts off, battery is at about 12.9. So i'm not sure, we'll see.

moe7404

AND if every surface is clean and flat you should not need any sealer.