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#1
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Hi everyone new member as of today. Let me start of by saying that im from cleveland ohio. My car is a 73 340 duster i have had this car about ten years and have quite a few things done to it such as Motor bored 40 over one piece crank stock. eagle I beam rods srp pistons redone heads 2.02 / 1.60 manley streetflow valves 3 angle job hardened seat bronze guides whole valvetrain is comp cam .507/.510 lift 240/246 duration one piece pushrods roller rockers 8 quart oil pan high flow oil pump edelbrock torker2 single plain manifold 750cfm edlebrock carb stock ignition cam is hydraulic flat tapet. electric fuel pump. Trans is a fresh stock 727 tci stall converter 2800 two coolers deep pan. Rear is 8 3/4 poisi 4 11 gears bfgoodrich drag radials with line locks bnm short throw shiffter and the trans does have a shift kit everything else as far as suspension and interior except for the shifter and couple gauges is stock setup.the fastest ive ever goten the car is 13.20 in the quarter I thought for sure when i was building that engine it would be a 12 second car in ten years still not there yet. Bought this car right when i got out of high school all the mechanical work done by me. (im a tech at a chevy dealer) Any way the problem im having is my key broke off in my steering column i snapped it cuz ignition tumbler froze up that key also worked the locks on the doors. Trunk has seperate key. Im just looking for something quick n easy to fix this as i dont have the money for a fancy steering colum just yet. A nd no i dont have a spare key i no that is stupid to say but thats how it is. Im thinking just get a new cylynder n key but the steering column is probably the only thing i have not had apart on this car its a column shift but i dont use that shifter. how do i go about geting the cylnder out of the column with the key stuck in (and it will not come out) and any recomendations where to get a replacement? sorry 4 the long introduction
#2
Sounds like you got it all covered with the right parts, so now if you want to go faster you have to play around and the first thing to do is probally get rid of the torker intake, awesome unit but the RPM Air Gap seems to be the hot ticket these days, that alone will give you a little more bottom end plus a lower gear like even a 4:30 will cut your time down a little, its all tweeking what ya have and when its maxed out start up grading stuff.
#4
i dont know if this is the same but in my 69 dart the lock cylinder can be removed by turning the cylinder to the lock position removing the key and with a piece of wire push in the lock retainer but with your key broke off in it i have no idea how sorry
#6
thanks for the welcome. and yes that is how the cylinder is suposed to come out but like was said in an earlier post i cant even turn it cause of the key and is frozen stuck. I was thinking about just takin the drill to it and removing it in pieces. Ive done alot of newer grand ams this way but if anyone else has some advice i would really appreciate it.
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03-08-2007 10:26 PM