MaltFalcon 1970 DODGE CHARGER04/12/2K15
#1
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MaltFalcon 1970 DODGE CHARGER04/12/2K15
LADIES AND GENTLEMEN,
This thread is about a 1970 Dodge Charger acquired earlier this year.
The Charger has 21000 original miles on her and it very rough shape.
I plan to restore her to as original condition as I can.
The car was bought in NOV1969 and was used until an untimely demise of its owner. The car was placed in a BARN and has sat for well over 37 years.
I was at first challenged to perform work on it myself, but, I have limitations in the knowledge and professional aspects to do this.
Currently the car is with a trusted mechanic of mine that will rebuild the motor and tranny and rearend as needed. As it is tempting to modify and enhance this motor, I will remain on an original build back to factory default
conditions for an S/E Edition Charger with a 2 barrel specifications.
My current plan is to have the motor and such removed for refurbishing, and as that is being done, commence surgical "media" blasting. The reason I say surgical is because to thoroughly complete the "media" blasting will require extreme measures, which although needed, I plan to complete in a different phase.
My immediate concern is the condition of the frame. Until further inspection and treatment, I am not sure if the frame can be saved or a donor frame may be required.
You may view pictures of the car in the ALL ALBUMS area under the album name of 1970 DODGE CHARGER of ST.PETERSBURG
This thread is about a 1970 Dodge Charger acquired earlier this year.
The Charger has 21000 original miles on her and it very rough shape.
I plan to restore her to as original condition as I can.
The car was bought in NOV1969 and was used until an untimely demise of its owner. The car was placed in a BARN and has sat for well over 37 years.
I was at first challenged to perform work on it myself, but, I have limitations in the knowledge and professional aspects to do this.
Currently the car is with a trusted mechanic of mine that will rebuild the motor and tranny and rearend as needed. As it is tempting to modify and enhance this motor, I will remain on an original build back to factory default
conditions for an S/E Edition Charger with a 2 barrel specifications.
My current plan is to have the motor and such removed for refurbishing, and as that is being done, commence surgical "media" blasting. The reason I say surgical is because to thoroughly complete the "media" blasting will require extreme measures, which although needed, I plan to complete in a different phase.
My immediate concern is the condition of the frame. Until further inspection and treatment, I am not sure if the frame can be saved or a donor frame may be required.
You may view pictures of the car in the ALL ALBUMS area under the album name of 1970 DODGE CHARGER of ST.PETERSBURG
#2
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
INSIDE THE FRAME ITSELF
As I looked over the information I have on the frame itself,
a point that comes to mind is that the frame itself is hollow.
With this said, I am trying to figure out how I can address the rust that is undoubtly growing on the inside of the frame itself. No matter how much I deal with the exterior of the frame, media blasting and refinishing the surface, it still remains that the inside of the hollow frame would be rusting from the inside out.
I will think about this, as time goes on.
a point that comes to mind is that the frame itself is hollow.
With this said, I am trying to figure out how I can address the rust that is undoubtly growing on the inside of the frame itself. No matter how much I deal with the exterior of the frame, media blasting and refinishing the surface, it still remains that the inside of the hollow frame would be rusting from the inside out.
I will think about this, as time goes on.
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beepbeeoJEEP (04-16-2015)
#4
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Great
TVlynn, thank you.
That's makes perfect sense, I never would have thought of that.
I was thinking of drilling holes all along the frame to spray something inside.
But, the dipping process,
excellent.
Thank you for posting.
That's makes perfect sense, I never would have thought of that.
I was thinking of drilling holes all along the frame to spray something inside.
But, the dipping process,
excellent.
Thank you for posting.
#5
Mopar Lover
Relax on getting inside the frame, when your done the thorough inspection you might find that some floor pans will need replacement. You will find the frame is like a "U" Channel spot weldeded to the floor pan, when removed the inside is revealed to see the condition.
Last edited by Coronet 500; 04-18-2015 at 07:30 AM. Reason: welded not riveted, brain fart.
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beepbeeoJEEP (04-17-2015)
#7
Mopar Lover
BBJ -
Sorry to have to mention this, but IF the frame is really bad, what exactly are you going to restore? Usually by the time the frame goes, the body panels have to be restored (replaced), then the drive train, interior etc, etc.
As far as checking the frame, a couple of wacks with a body hammer should tell you if it's useable or not. If the frame dents easily or parts flake off, it's not a good sign.
I guess the point I'm making it that it might cost more to restore that one than to buy one in better condition.
Archer
Sorry to have to mention this, but IF the frame is really bad, what exactly are you going to restore? Usually by the time the frame goes, the body panels have to be restored (replaced), then the drive train, interior etc, etc.
As far as checking the frame, a couple of wacks with a body hammer should tell you if it's useable or not. If the frame dents easily or parts flake off, it's not a good sign.
I guess the point I'm making it that it might cost more to restore that one than to buy one in better condition.
Archer
#8
Mopar Lover
I just looked at your photos again and some of the structural members don't look as bad as some I've seen. Now that car has rust and corrosion on everything but it could be just surface and not deep. I want to stay positive with you but you won't know until you completely remove the seats and carpets and start banging at the floor panels with a pointed hammer. You will go through in places and where you do start peeling back the rotted metal with vice grip, chisel and hammer. This should expose the inside of your structure and give you an answer. The unknown is the scary part.
Have a very close look at the bottom corners of front and back glass from inside underneath on your back with a flashlight. This will give you direction on what is next.
At this point it's time for the big decision of glass removal, complete stripping of car and off to blasting for a couple of thousand dollars and all will be revealed. At that point it's "in for a penny, in for a pound".
At this point you'll need to ask yourself, am I in for a complete original restoration or other options.
This is the critical time with the most emotional ups and downs like turning the page of a book, each thing you disassemble may crumble in you hands or reveal a solid part.
Have a very close look at the bottom corners of front and back glass from inside underneath on your back with a flashlight. This will give you direction on what is next.
At this point it's time for the big decision of glass removal, complete stripping of car and off to blasting for a couple of thousand dollars and all will be revealed. At that point it's "in for a penny, in for a pound".
At this point you'll need to ask yourself, am I in for a complete original restoration or other options.
This is the critical time with the most emotional ups and downs like turning the page of a book, each thing you disassemble may crumble in you hands or reveal a solid part.
#9
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
I think it is salvagable
The driveline, rearend and motor is fine.
The interior is fine.
Again, I don't think the frame is too far gone, no deep damage.
Yes, there is work to do,
and yes, until the blasting is done, a total look cant be done.
At the end of the day, I feel confident repairs and restoration can be made.
After all, that is the challenge and the joy of restoration.
The biggest factor is the floor boards, which will have to be redesigned.
I have shown mostly the bad parts,
my next set of pictures will show the good spots.
The interior is fine.
Again, I don't think the frame is too far gone, no deep damage.
Yes, there is work to do,
and yes, until the blasting is done, a total look cant be done.
At the end of the day, I feel confident repairs and restoration can be made.
After all, that is the challenge and the joy of restoration.
The biggest factor is the floor boards, which will have to be redesigned.
I have shown mostly the bad parts,
my next set of pictures will show the good spots.
#11
Super Moderator
#13
Super Moderator
I haven't seen anything lately but the pictures he had in his album here, the car looked like a rusty P.O.S..
I just looked at more photos of the car, k frame is so rusted it looks like it was in a swamp. Frame is rusted severely, no flour pans, needs a roof, full quarters, rear body panel, panel under back glass, rt door, rt front fender, k frame?, wheel houses, etc..........................
He got snookered, but he was told to run like bunny when asking if he should buy it.
It is a case of buyer beware, it's totally on the buyer to know what they're buying.
Bob, screw the pooch? LOL
I just looked at more photos of the car, k frame is so rusted it looks like it was in a swamp. Frame is rusted severely, no flour pans, needs a roof, full quarters, rear body panel, panel under back glass, rt door, rt front fender, k frame?, wheel houses, etc..........................
He got snookered, but he was told to run like bunny when asking if he should buy it.
It is a case of buyer beware, it's totally on the buyer to know what they're buying.
Bob, screw the pooch? LOL
Last edited by Iowan; 05-05-2015 at 08:54 PM.
#16
Super Moderator
#17
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SOLD !!!!! on ebay today for $7,700
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